Add brace to back of my 4x12 ?

Crunchtime

Member
So, I have a Fryette D412. I would like it to be tighter.

Looking inside, the only bracing on the inside is a horizontal wooden brace in the center of the front baffle.

When playing I placed my hand on the back of the cab and it resonates like crazy. I am considering a brace similar to the front but on the back. I am thinking maybe a 1x4 screwed into the back with 90 degree angle brackets securing to sides. Any thoughts on this? This would be easier than trying to do a traditional front to back brace since cab has no removable back and front has brace anyway. Thoughts?

Btw, cab has V30's now but I am going to change to K100's when adding brace. I don't think the V30's are what I want and the K100's should handle the lows much better while staying tight, or so I think.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 
-I'm assuming its an A style cab that the back panel is MDF or chip board, if so yeah, that back panel to baffle brace should only help, if its harsh, poly fill on the back panel,
 
TL;DR change the speakers don't fuck with the cab.

If you're thinking about changing speakers, I'd do that first. I say this for a couple reasons. First, Fryette is a good manufacturer and I'd be hesitant to mess with their designs, just like I'd hesitate to slap wood on the inside of my Bogner cabs. Secondly, wood is the last thing you wanna fuck with because it's the hardest to reverse. You can change speakers 100 times, and go back to the original V30s and have that cab 100% restored to original. Tack on some wood, and you've at a very minimum have scarred it even if you can easily reverse it.

To further encourage you to explore speakers, that will impact your tone MUCH more significantly than a brace (anyone here who has actual experience, please correct me if I'm wrong. This is more of a hunch tbh). If the V30 is _almost_ perfect, then maybe a tweak to the cab is right. But I'd advise trying other speakers first. For instance, I had my mind made up that I would never like Greenbacks. "They're vintage... They're not good for metal... they'll fart out if you have too much gain..." Dude, I have fallen in love with my EVH-signature GB Heritage loaded Bogner. Granted, I only love them when the master is dimed. But my god the lows are one of the sorta things like you wanna have in your sex life.

To finally basically just say "dude, you're stupid if you don't try speakers first", my DOC when playing with anyone else is V30. GBs are for my alone time lol. Unless you have a setup where you can politely dime the amp, you'll have to dial the master back and those GBs lose their sexiness because it's so influenced by speaker breakup. They grow a bit "cold" to use the term guys throw around about GBs, which just so happens to play into my sexual analogy too. Plus, if you're jamming with someone other than only a drummer, then you'll learn that V30's are the way of saying "Hey y'all, here's my god damn contribution to this music" because those speakers have that upper mid that CUTS. Any mix. You're gonna be heard. So I've learned that I love my Bogner as my base cabinet, but I have different speakers for different situations with all the exact same gear.

I'm kinda laughing that you are struggling with V30s having tight low-end, btw. The Bogner that has the Marshall-labeled V30... the low-end slays so hard, I'm planning to start tampering with power tubes or even taking it to the builder to rip some low-end out. It's so huge and tight. Maybe what you need is a Bogner cab instead? LOL

Jokes aside, have you tried G12-75 Celestions? I just picked up a Marshall loaded with them for shits and giggles. The low end is overwhelming. You'd probably love it. And I'm sure you've noticed they're popular to mix with V30's in an X. So with $150 you should be able to find a pair of worn-in V30s (or Hellatone 60s. Same speaker with someone else's label) used. Just make sure you know the correct impedance to purchase.

Funny thing about that too... My first Bogner was V30s when I bought it and I mixed in two K100s. I never loved it. I tried it forever, but never loved it. Thankfully I stopped being stubborn about my speaker choices which were based on reading stuff people like me write to waste your time, and started trying speakers and found all kinds of cool shit I'd never figured out by reading.

Oh, so change the speakers and don't fuck with the cab.
 
The Deliverance cab is designed to be loose, and the front brace is a patented design. Try different speakers or a different cab. If you ever want to sell that cab, shoot me a pm.
 
Kelly":176af7am said:
The Deliverance cab is designed to be loose, and the front brace is a patented design. Try different speakers or a different cab. If you ever want to sell that cab, shoot me a pm.

TL;DR what I was saying.

:LOL: :LOL:
 
Ok thanks for your input even if you come off as condescending. Yeah the cab is loose and I'm not afraid to "scar" it with 4 wood screws. I also have plans to change speakers but as long as I am in there I may as well adapt it to my needs. It's just a wooden box that is meant to serve my needs not a work of art. Anyway where I live you are not selling a cab unless you give it away so may as well make it work.
 
I thought about the foam but I think I want to see what the center post does. It definitely needs one based on how much the back resonates. I suspect that is my main cause of the flubs I am getting. I will still change the speakers. I'd like to try something besides the V30's and scored a good deal on some K100's. been wanting to try them since I hear they kill with Diezels which is what I am playing through this cab.
 
I probably wouldn't do it personally (for a few reasons), but if it makes sense in your situation I say go for it man.

I would suggest though that you do one thing at a time (change speakers or add brace). That way you'll know which modification did what to your sound, and you'll learn about the specific impact a certain change makes. That kind of experience/knowledge can be handy down the line.
 
GBR":3f9lkrgk said:
I probably wouldn't do it personally (for a few reasons), but if it makes sense in your situation I say go for it man.

I would suggest though that you do one thing at a time (change speakers or add brace). That way you'll know which modification did what to your sound, and you'll learn about the specific impact a certain change makes. That kind of experience/knowledge can be handy down the line.

Good advice and I had the same idea doing one step at a time to evaluate changes. Should be a fun experiment.


D-Rock":3f9lkrgk said:
Is the cab sitting directly on the floor, or on casters?

On casters
 
Do it. I understand what others are saying. Don't care. Put a post in there and report back what you find. Hope it helps your situation.
 
rottingcorpse":4oyu6xaz said:
Do it. I understand what others are saying. Don't care. Put a post in there and report back what you find. Hope it helps your situation.


Right on. Worst case scenario, I leave a hand-full of tiny holes from small screws that could even be filled with wood filler. Not that I would because I know it will work and it's on the inside where nobody would ever see the tiny holes anyway. lol
 
Crunchtime":2ao29dok said:
Ok thanks for your input even if you come off as condescending. Yeah the cab is loose and I'm not afraid to "scar" it with 4 wood screws. I also have plans to change speakers but as long as I am in there I may as well adapt it to my needs. It's just a wooden box that is meant to serve my needs not a work of art. Anyway where I live you are not selling a cab unless you give it away so may as well make it work.

My apologies. I'm pretty bad about going for wise-ass comedy, so didn't mean to put ya down. I hope the actual advice I buried in there is of value for ya. Happy experimenting!
 
Crunchtime":23oa6g1l said:
GBR":23oa6g1l said:
I probably wouldn't do it personally (for a few reasons), but if it makes sense in your situation I say go for it man.

I would suggest though that you do one thing at a time (change speakers or add brace). That way you'll know which modification did what to your sound, and you'll learn about the specific impact a certain change makes. That kind of experience/knowledge can be handy down the line.

Good advice and I had the same idea doing one step at a time to evaluate changes. Should be a fun experiment.

Cool, let us know how it works out. I'm interested in hearing about the results.
 
Not familiar with this cab but I had a similar issue with my Marshall backs "Flubbing" on the low tones. Of course my cabs have backs that screw on, so I knew the air was venting out the back regardless of the screws being tight.

My solution was to put a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the cabinet back and let it completely set up. Then I replaced the back and screwed it down tight. Problem solved!

In your case, maybe you could run a bead of silicone around the inside perimeter of the cabinet to stop and air from escaping out the back of the cab? I'm not sure how or if they are intended to breath. Cheap and fast fix idea.
 
Crunchtime":2ucosn7b said:
Ok thanks for your input even if you come off as condescending. Yeah the cab is loose and I'm not afraid to "scar" it with 4 wood screws. I also have plans to change speakers but as long as I am in there I may as well adapt it to my needs. It's just a wooden box that is meant to serve my needs not a work of art. Anyway where I live you are not selling a cab unless you give it away so may as well make it work.
No one's being condescending. You asked for opinions, but you've already made up your mind.
 
Kelly":1f9k4ww9 said:
Crunchtime":1f9k4ww9 said:
Ok thanks for your input even if you come off as condescending. Yeah the cab is loose and I'm not afraid to "scar" it with 4 wood screws. I also have plans to change speakers but as long as I am in there I may as well adapt it to my needs. It's just a wooden box that is meant to serve my needs not a work of art. Anyway where I live you are not selling a cab unless you give it away so may as well make it work.
No one's being condescending. You asked for opinions, but you've already made up your mind.

I asked for opinions and he throws out phrases like "laughing at you" and "your stupid". Don't really care if you agree but I found the post to be douchey.
 
Fryette V-BRACE technology
"A speaker cabinet control mechanism that facilitates control of speaker cabinet tonal quality. A bracing structure is applied to a baffle panel that changes the resonant frequency of the baffle panel thereby changing the overall tonal quality of the speaker cabinet. The bracing structure allows the conventional sound post and the problems associated therewith to be eliminated while retaining the vintage sound of the cabinet. Utilization of the bracing structure in combination with the design of the cabinet back panel further enhances control over the overall cabinet tonal quality. The bracing structure can be designed to be manually and automatically controllable with further enhancements."

https://www.google.com/patents/US200701 ... &q&f=false
 
Thanks. I've read that before. Seems the V brace technology is just a strip of plywood that is wider in the middle than the ends. I suppose the further enhancements mentioned could be referring to a center post. I wish I could see inside a Fatbottom for comparison.
 
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