Ceriatone Chupacabra effects loop/tone changes?

FourT6and2":29fmjymy said:
ledvedder":29fmjymy said:
FourT6and2":29fmjymy said:
ledvedder":29fmjymy said:
Ok, here's the existing wires connected to the send and return jacks, and the other end of the wires connecting to the B+ and middle treble wiper. Am I just disconnecting the black wires from the send and return jacks and connecting the to the in and out on the metro board? Where do I get B+ for the metro board?

Just disconnect the coax from the send/return jacks. And attach them to the Metro board. Don't mess with the other ends (treble pot, preamp board, etc.). You can grab the B+ from anywhere, really. As long as you make sure you are using the correct voltage for the Metro board. I think the PI node might be a good place to try. Or the PI-side of the large blue filter cap on the preamp board since it's physically closer (this is the spot connected to V2, pin 6). But it's the same point in the circuit as the PI node since there is no dropping resistor between them.

What do the Metro Board instructions say about the required voltage?

Based on my B+ measurement, I have to use a 33K resistor between the voltage source and the B+ terminal on the metro board.

How do you know this? What is your voltage source? The value of your dropping resistor will vary depending on what B+ source you use. B+ is not constant. It's different depending on where in the circuit you tap it. Voltage in my stock Chupa 50 at the PI B+ node is around 330v, for example. If you're asking where to grab the B+ how do you know what the B+ voltage is and therefore what dropping resistor value to use?

It measured 353. Based on that, the Metro instructions says to use a 33K resistor.
 
Well guys, this is what I vae so far. I didn't mount anything yet, I just wanted to wire it up and test the results.



 
FourT6and2":2rb9ot7z said:
Are you gonna wire in the switch to take it in/out of the circuit as well?

I'm not sure that it's necessary. It's pretty quiet as is. Funny thing is it's quieter if I set the dip switch to +4 than if it's set to - 20.
 
It dropped my B+ voltage from 353 to 342, since the board draws some power from it. The metro instructions say you can get it back by changing a resistor value if you want, but I'm not noticing any difference in the sound.
 
ledvedder":16mgqjb2 said:
It dropped my B+ voltage from 353 to 342, since the board draws some power from it. The metro instructions say you can get it back by changing a resistor value if you want, but I'm not noticing any difference in the sound.

You really wont notice that much of a difference. You can change the value of the first dropping resistor if you want to play with it. When I build an amp I just wire in a pot for that resistor so I can play around with different values. Not a huge difference unless you make a drastic change in resistor value. Stock value is 10K. Higher value = lower voltages in the preamp = more of a "brown" sound and looser feel. Lower resistor value = higher voltages and a tighter feel. But a difference of 11v is nothing. Although the Chupa is running fairly low voltages overall anyway. So maybe you might want to keep them high.

If you really want to get the stock voltage back, grab a bunch of 10K metal oxide resistors (3 watt or 5 watt) and find the one that measures the lowest value. Like 8K or 8.5K or 9K or whatever.
 
So far I'm liking what I'm hearing. Does the 10K make a difference? Who knows. But I like what I'm getting now.
 
This Digitech RP360 that I grabbed the other day sounds great now in the loop. I can use it in stomp mode, with 3 assignable footswtiches per bank. I set up one bank with reverb, delay, and eq with some mid boost. Sounds phenomenal!
 
ledvedder":9njabap0 said:
It dropped my B+ voltage from 353 to 342, since the board draws some power from it. The metro instructions say you can get it back by changing a resistor value if you want, but I'm not noticing any difference in the sound.

Yeah don't worry about it, 11v wont make much, if any difference.

The metro kit you have has a bunch of extra metal oxide resistors, if it really matters to you I would say a 8.2k in place of the first 10k dropper would do the trick.

the +4db on the loop will be lower noise because you have a better signal to noise ratio. But beware some stomp box effect will not like that hot of signal.
 
CrazyNutz":2oelfplv said:
ledvedder":2oelfplv said:
Now I'm wondering if the ceriatone buffered loop is similar to the metro loop. http://www.ceriatone.com/mod-buffered-loop-switch/.

That may fit into the chassis without modifications.

It looks a lot like a copy of the metro loop circuit.
At any rate Its basically the same scenario. It does not have the jacks on the board either, it's held with one screw, and hot glue.
I like the unsupported radial cap lopped over the side. At any rate, I’d buy a solder sucker and
Try to remove the jacks from the metro board before I spend another 75 plus shipping for another board
 
scottosan":14waljrm said:
CrazyNutz":14waljrm said:
ledvedder":14waljrm said:
Now I'm wondering if the ceriatone buffered loop is similar to the metro loop. http://www.ceriatone.com/mod-buffered-loop-switch/.

That may fit into the chassis without modifications.

It looks a lot like a copy of the metro loop circuit.
At any rate Its basically the same scenario. It does not have the jacks on the board either, it's held with one screw, and hot glue.
I like the unsupported radial cap lopped over the side. At any rate, I’d buy a solder sucker and
Try to remove the jacks from the metro board before I spend another 75 plus shipping for another board

Haha, I just noticed that cap bent over the side of the board.

BTW, George from metroamp responded to my email back when I was asking if I should move the master volume. Would thus response basically be the return pot that you suggested?

"I haven't done this, so I can only speculate. I'd leave the strange MV there and put the loop after the tone stack where it belongs. Then add a typical MV after the loop.
See how the controls interact. You might be able to eliminate the Jose MV."
 
ledvedder":20eh2yho said:
scottosan":20eh2yho said:
CrazyNutz":20eh2yho said:
ledvedder":20eh2yho said:
Now I'm wondering if the ceriatone buffered loop is similar to the metro loop. http://www.ceriatone.com/mod-buffered-loop-switch/.

That may fit into the chassis without modifications.

It looks a lot like a copy of the metro loop circuit.
At any rate Its basically the same scenario. It does not have the jacks on the board either, it's held with one screw, and hot glue.
I like the unsupported radial cap lopped over the side. At any rate, I’d buy a solder sucker and
Try to remove the jacks from the metro board before I spend another 75 plus shipping for another board

Haha, I just noticed that cap bent over the side of the board.

BTW, George from metroamp responded to my email back when I was asking if I should move the master volume. Would thus response basically be the return pot that you suggested?

"I haven't done this, so I can only speculate. I'd leave the strange MV there and put the loop after the tone stack where it belongs. Then add a typical MV after the loop.
See how the controls interact. You might be able to eliminate the Jose MV."

Why the fuck would you want to eliminate the Jose MV? That's the freakin' point of this amp. It's like saying, "oh maybe if you do X Y and Z you can lower the amount of gain in a Diezel VH4..."
 
Didn’t George build the Atomica? It’s the same topology!!! That’s a very strange response from him.

The pot can technically be replaced with a 1m resistor, and volume moved post tonestack, which is what’s done on the BE100. That being said, it does alter the tone.

I’d leave it since the issues is space not design
 
scottosan":28h83krx said:
Didn’t George build the Atomica? It’s the same topology!!! That’s a very strange response from him.

The pot can technically be replaced with a 1m resistor, and volume moved post tonestack, which is what’s done on the BE100. That being said, it does alter the tone.

I’d leave it since the issues is space not design

I agree! Because, as far as I understand, doesn't the existing MV's setting control the amount of signal that goes to B and C on the Era switch? Wouldn't a wide open MV (basically replacing it with a 1m resistor) take B and C out of the signal? Maybe I'm wrong.
 
ledvedder":3qrost81 said:
scottosan":3qrost81 said:
Didn’t George build the Atomica? It’s the same topology!!! That’s a very strange response from him.

The pot can technically be replaced with a 1m resistor, and volume moved post tonestack, which is what’s done on the BE100. That being said, it does alter the tone.

I’d leave it since the issues is space not design

I agree! Because, as far as I understand, doesn't the existing MV's setting control the amount of signal that goes to B and C on the Era switch? Wouldn't a wide open MV (basically replacing it with a 1m resistor) take B and C out of the signal? Maybe I'm wrong.
The zen era always see a 1M reference to ground. The wiper going to the tone stack is what changes
 
scottosan":q0glag13 said:
ledvedder":q0glag13 said:
scottosan":q0glag13 said:
Didn’t George build the Atomica? It’s the same topology!!! That’s a very strange response from him.

The pot can technically be replaced with a 1m resistor, and volume moved post tonestack, which is what’s done on the BE100. That being said, it does alter the tone.

I’d leave it since the issues is space not design

I agree! Because, as far as I understand, doesn't the existing MV's setting control the amount of signal that goes to B and C on the Era switch? Wouldn't a wide open MV (basically replacing it with a 1m resistor) take B and C out of the signal? Maybe I'm wrong.
The zen era always see a 1M reference to ground. The wiper going to the tone stack is what changes

Got it! Thanks for the explanation.

Another response I received from George regarding the return pot on the metro switch.

"That pot would only affect signal level when the loop is active. But it will work.

I would put it between the output of the bypass switch and the .022 PI cap."

I'm not sure if that makes much difference.
 
ledvedder":ol9trwgx said:
scottosan":ol9trwgx said:
ledvedder":ol9trwgx said:
scottosan":ol9trwgx said:
Didn’t George build the Atomica? It’s the same topology!!! That’s a very strange response from him.

The pot can technically be replaced with a 1m resistor, and volume moved post tonestack, which is what’s done on the BE100. That being said, it does alter the tone.

I’d leave it since the issues is space not design

I agree! Because, as far as I understand, doesn't the existing MV's setting control the amount of signal that goes to B and C on the Era switch? Wouldn't a wide open MV (basically replacing it with a 1m resistor) take B and C out of the signal? Maybe I'm wrong.
The zen era always see a 1M reference to ground. The wiper going to the tone stack is what changes

Got it! Thanks for the explanation.

Another response I received from George regarding the return pot on the metro switch.

"That pot would only affect signal level when the loop is active. But it will work.

I would put it between the output of the bypass switch and the .022 PI cap."

I'm not sure if that makes much difference.
ive wired it before and after the switch. After the switch will give you a definitive reference to original signal when adjusting send levels
 
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