EVH Wolfgang owners Help Me Out Please!

bsp01

New member
So I switched my bridge from the stock "EVH" korean floyd to a OFR. No problem there.

I'm having a bitch of time getting set back up the way it was though. Is the bridge supposed to sit parallel in the little recess, or is it ok to have it angled upward a little bit? When it is sitting parallel in there the guitar buzzes and seems to fret out in spots. The only way for it to sound clear is to raise the bridge up.

It just seems like the bridge should not be angled like that .. like this | \ Where | is the post and \ is the edge, of course the angle is very exaggerated there. I would think it should be | --- like that.

Do I need to shim the nut a bit? I don't know what I'm doing here. Oh, I did try to adjust the truss rod a little to add some slack, but that didn't help much.
 
Nobody?

I know it's not nearly as interesting as a tube covers on or off debate but come on.
 
The bridge should be parallel with the body. I hate to say it, but this is one of the reasons I got rid if my Wolfgang. I've set up dozens of guitars on the past with no problem but the Wolfgang pissed me off one too many times and off it went. I could never get rid of the buzz. I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:
 
No problem with the back angled up a bit, lots of bar abusers do that with charvels to get multi-octave pull ups. Mess around raising and lowering the posts as well, will not hurt anything.
 
The knife edges should be parallel to the trem post unless you are resting the trem against the body (non floating).
 
^^ Might be an idea there...

I'm wondering if anyone would be kind enough to post a pic of their bridge from the side so I can see how it should look. Also, one from underneath the trem in the back. Mine seems to have two layers of depth. In the recess there is a swallow level painted, and below that bare wood. The trem rests on the bare wood section, and that's where it seems low. It seems like mine is lower than any pictures or videos I see online. Something's not right.
 
Lp Freak":1bqk1m5b said:
I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:

Sounds like you had a lemon. Sorry to hear about your experience, but I wouldn't write off an entire line of guitars because of one clunker.
 
The Jeff":2uq2kb5u said:
Lp Freak":2uq2kb5u said:
I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:

Sounds like you had a lemon. Sorry to hear about your experience, but I wouldn't write off an entire line of guitars because of one clunker.
It's possible, but I'm just telling it the way it is. :scared:
 
bsp01":2z7wfria said:
So I switched my bridge from the stock "EVH" korean floyd to a OFR. No problem there.

I'm having a bitch of time getting set back up the way it was though. Is the bridge supposed to sit parallel in the little recess, or is it ok to have it angled upward a little bit? When it is sitting parallel in there the guitar buzzes and seems to fret out in spots. The only way for it to sound clear is to raise the bridge up.

It just seems like the bridge should not be angled like that .. like this | \ Where | is the post and \ is the edge, of course the angle is very exaggerated there. I would think it should be | --- like that.

Do I need to shim the nut a bit? I don't know what I'm doing here. Oh, I did try to adjust the truss rod a little to add some slack, but that didn't help much.


Bridge should be set "decked" - that is, the base plate flat on the body and and level. Shim the neck to raise or lower action. Relief should be very flat, like .003 - .005
 
@ Lp Freak - Did you have a Korea or a USA??
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.
 
TeleBlaster":1j50mceo said:
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.

Right. I honestly can't think of a more solid neck on a production guitar. I've always thought if I were to throw one of my Wolfgangs off my roof it would probably still be perfectly in tune when I picked it up. :thumbsup:
 
I had one blow over in a parking lot, in the stand, face down, right on the cement!!

I thought for sure it was a goner. Picked it up, it was fine, and still in perfect tune! Though there was not a scratch on the body or headstock, I had to replace the little bolts in the locking nut pieces as the allen heads were totally smushed.


The Tele is a USA Custom Guitars swamp ash.
BareKnuckle Nailbomb in the bridge, Mississippi Queen in the neck.
Thanks! My first partsocaster project, it plays and sounds like a million bucks!

IMG_6115.jpg
 
TeleBlaster":13tlgr0m said:
@ Lp Freak - Did you have a Korea or a USA??
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.
I had the USA version.
 
I had a special and a USA. They were very picky about the setup. I remember the best I found was having it rest on the body. With every Floyd I have owned I find it best to have a very slight tilt back. Barely noticeable from parallel. I would adjust the neck to .009 at the seventh in between the G and D strings with a 24" ruler going down the full lenghth of the neck with a feeler gauge. Another problem I have found with Floyds is previous owners do not know that the saddles are not all the same. There are low, medium, and high saddles on the bridge. You will never get it right(no buzz) if these have been mixed up. They are numbered on the OFR and most of the licensed ones have dots. I just put them on a flat surface and its easy to tell. Not all know this. The lowest saddles are for both E strings, medium for the A and B, and high for the D and G strings. Definitely check these. People remove them to clean and just put them back any old way assuming they are all the same. Good luck.
 
You shouldnt have to shim anything... Set the bridge against the body of the guitar and adjust the action by raising or lowering the bridge with the post screws.

The Original Floyd base plate is probably thinner then the licensed version and the bridge needs to be raised a bit.

I've had my Peavey Wolfgang since '03, play it every day and have never once had to adjust the neck. The frets have been dressed once and even then my tech said the neck was fine. Most stable guitar I've ever owned!!!
 
Thanks for the input guys. I think I found the problem. The stock floyd has a shim under the saddles. With the shim, the radius is 10", the EVH is 12-16 compound radius. Removing the shim will put the bridge at 12", but I'm going to also get a few saddle shims and shim certain saddles to get it better for the 16" radius.

I'm pretty sure once I've got the saddles shims in it will play better than it did from the factory.
 
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