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 Post subject: NAD - Ceriatone Yeti 100
PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 6:35am 
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Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 7:23am 
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I hear ya...I've tried a few Ceriatone amps at Music Go Rounds in Mpls a few yrs back and they were just OK, but I didn't spend too much time with them. Give it a good week before you flip it, maybe do some tube rolling and see if that helps. Lots of guys really love these amps....
Can you check the bias? I was hearing some congestion if you will in my Wizard, one of my Winged Cs is going bad so I replaced it and all is well after a rebias.....

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 7:29am 
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Racerxrated wrote:
I hear ya...I've tried a few Ceriatone amps at Music Go Rounds in Mpls a few yrs back and they were just OK, but I didn't spend too much time with them. Give it a good week before you flip it, maybe do some tube rolling and see if that helps. Lots of guys really love these amps....
Can you check the bias? I was hearing some congestion if you will in my Wizard, one of my Winged Cs is going bad so I replaced it and all is well after a rebias.....



It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 8:45am 
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How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:00am 
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slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:03am 
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I've never played a Yeti, but looking at the schem it looks like just another jose marshal with a few different values.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, I can tell you what to change to probably get it where you like it.

First thing I would try, is change v1a load resister from 390k to 330k, and change the slope resistor from 47k to 39k, or even 33k for more marshally mids.

See how that sounds, then next I would change the cathode resistors from 3k to 2.7k, and the bypass caps from 1uf to .68uf


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:20am 
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CrazyNutz wrote:
I've never played a Yeti, but looking at the schem it looks like just another jose marshal with a few different values.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, I can tell you what to change to probably get it where you like it.

First thing I would try, is change v1a load resister from 390k to 330k, and change the slope resistor from 47k to 39k, or even 33k for more marshally mids.

See how that sounds, then next I would change the cathode resistors from 3k to 2.7k, and the bypass caps from 1uf to .68uf


Should I replace the flux capacitor?


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:26am 
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napalmdeath wrote:
Racerxrated wrote:
I hear ya...I've tried a few Ceriatone amps at Music Go Rounds in Mpls a few yrs back and they were just OK, but I didn't spend too much time with them. Give it a good week before you flip it, maybe do some tube rolling and see if that helps. Lots of guys really love these amps....
Can you check the bias? I was hearing some congestion if you will in my Wizard, one of my Winged Cs is going bad so I replaced it and all is well after a rebias.....[/quo

It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.

Try the Mullard in V1...I find that V1 is sometimes the most important spot for the best Pre tube.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:34am 
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Racerxrated wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Racerxrated wrote:
I hear ya...I've tried a few Ceriatone amps at Music Go Rounds in Mpls a few yrs back and they were just OK, but I didn't spend too much time with them. Give it a good week before you flip it, maybe do some tube rolling and see if that helps. Lots of guys really love these amps....
Can you check the bias? I was hearing some congestion if you will in my Wizard, one of my Winged Cs is going bad so I replaced it and all is well after a rebias.....[/quo

It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.

Try the Mullard in V1...I find that V1 is sometimes the most important spot for the best Pre tube.


The Tungsol is no slouch! The Mullard is a RI, but I'll do some more testing. I have some Ruby Chinese and a GE 12AX7 to try.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:38am 
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or try 5751's in both V1 and V2. Might make it more usable for you on all modes. I have 5751 in both V1 and V2 of a Splawn mod Marshall. That thing was Hairy Mary and uncontrollable with 12ax7's. Now with 2 x 5751's it is way more controllable and musical sounding.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 9:53am 
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thenine wrote:
or try 5751's in both V1 and V2. Might make it more usable for you on all modes. I have 5751 in both V1 and V2 of a Splawn mod Marshall. That thing was Hairy Mary and uncontrollable with 12ax7's. Now with 2 x 5751's it is way more controllable and musical sounding.


Harry Mary is about right. 5150 amounts of gain on the Yeti.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 10:23am 
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napalmdeath wrote:
CrazyNutz wrote:
I've never played a Yeti, but looking at the schem it looks like just another jose marshal with a few different values.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, I can tell you what to change to probably get it where you like it.

First thing I would try, is change v1a load resister from 390k to 330k, and change the slope resistor from 47k to 39k, or even 33k for more marshally mids.

See how that sounds, then next I would change the cathode resistors from 3k to 2.7k, and the bypass caps from 1uf to .68uf


Should I replace the flux capacitor?



Only if you're trying to reduce the power down from 1.21 gigawatts.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 10:45am 
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Don't own one,
but I am familiar with the circuit and copied the preamp on my 5W Marshall.

Have you tried FOCUS switch, You will lose gain and bass with it on.
(amp becoms tighter, with less gain),

or Pussy trimmer (it controls how much gain passes on 3rd stage, frequencies below 800Hz).
Normally it would be set on half, to form a 470k/470k voltage divider which many hot rodded marshalls use for later stages.

Usually I like gain2 on full and gain1 to taste.

If you engage bright switches it can become too bright and gainy also.


Last edited by marcus262 on Fri, Sep 14, 2018 11:27am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 11:00am 
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Turn down the pussy trimmer. But I tend to agree. The stock circuit isn’t very good. Way too much gain.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 11:59am 
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I will offer you $600 for the amp since it doesn't sound very good. :lol: :LOL:

Eh I hope you find some good tones in there, nothing worse that having your expectations crushed...


Last edited by motorboy1 on Fri, Sep 14, 2018 2:31pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 12:07pm 
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I find that when you turn the gains down on the front of the amp to acceptable levels, the amp gets thin and overly tight. I like to leave those higher and lower the pussy trimmer on the back. Lowers gain and retains a fat tone.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 12:10pm 
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CrazyNutz wrote:
I've never played a Yeti, but looking at the schem it looks like just another jose marshal with a few different values.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, I can tell you what to change to probably get it where you like it.

First thing I would try, is change v1a load resister from 390k to 330k, and change the slope resistor from 47k to 39k, or even 33k for more marshally mids.

See how that sounds, then next I would change the cathode resistors from 3k to 2.7k, and the bypass caps from 1uf to .68uf


I’d go even lower on that V1a resistor... I like 220k with a 47pf snubber (I use a 47pf snubber on the 100k of my JCA20 as well).. I agree with the 39k slope. Cathode resistors 2.7 to 3k is cool and I like 1uf.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 12:14pm 
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Should have bought my Surreal LC100 :doh:


Try the Rivera Rockcrusher Power Attenuator. I used one with my 5150 but just sold both.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 12:21pm 
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motorboy1 wrote:
I will offer you $600 for the amp since it has a hole in the back and doesn't sound very good. :lol: :LOL:

Eh I hope you find some good tones in there, nothing worse that having your expectations crushed...


Hole in the back?


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 12:56pm 
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napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA for each half of the output section (Outer tubes are one half, inner tubes are the other).

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 1:07pm 
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FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 1:13pm 
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napalmdeath wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


The bright switches are simple. Center position = no bright cap. Like clipping the cap on a typical Marshall. To the right, there is a cap that increases gain for the high frequencies. To the left, there is a cap that increases gain for the upper mid frequencies and higher. If you think the switch is either too much or not enough, you can simply change the value of the capacitor attached to it to change the range of frequencies affected. Using both switches at the same time is way too much. You gotta find the right balance. And then if the switch is engaged, the corresponding gain control will change how much effect the cap has. The higher you set the gain control for its switch, the less the cap does. Just play around with it more.

This is a pretty good representation of how the Yeti inherently sounds:


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 2:07pm 
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Although I have adjusted mine some, these are not really kerangy Marshalls with their voicing.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 3:23pm 
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It's super gainy if you dont know how to tweak knobs and switches properly, it aint one of those amps that will sound the way you want the moment you plug your guitar in. The pussy trimmer can adjust the situation of the gain is tpp much, but like said by FourT6and2 you have to learn how to use the bright switches first. Compared to a Splawn it sort of a different beast, but I played both and preferred the Yeti by a decent shot. It's just not as immediate.


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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 4:09pm 
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Zado wrote:
It's super gainy if you dont know how to tweak knobs and switches properly, it aint one of those amps that will sound the way you want the moment you plug your guitar in. The pussy trimmer can adjust the situation of the gain is tpp much, but like said by FourT6and2 you have to learn how to use the bright switches first. Compared to a Splawn it sort of a different beast, but I played both and preferred the Yeti by a decent shot. It's just not as immediate.

I completely agree. Settings on this amp are completely different from a Splawn. I also like it quite a bit more than the Quick Rod that I had and sold off. FourT6and2 knows these amps very well and definitely gave me some things to play around with that gave me some different results that what I was using in the video..


Last edited by slaveunit on Fri, Sep 14, 2018 7:18pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri, Sep 14, 2018 6:30pm 
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I've found some pretty killer tones in this amp for sure. Much more pleased than before. But, as much as I hate to admit it, I would just prefer much less gain and a push. With my Mini Jubilee, I really disliked the rhythm clip, so I never used it, and goosed the gain, and ran a boost. It sounded fantastic. I hate to say, but I think I just need a good old JCM800. Or, (what I really wanted), a Splawn Competition. It has the most perfect lower to mid gain tone in Gear 1, and the perfect, (for me, anyway), higher gain thrash tone in Gear 2, (I never used gear 3).

The key with the Yeti, (I believe), to achieving it's awesomeness, is volume. Getting that power amp to catch up.

I'm on the fence. I will say this, I regret not keeping the Mini Jubilee. And, I think if I let the Yeti go, I think I might give another Runt 50 a go, after all. My tastes have changed so much, that I think I prefer less gain, and a couple boosts than a high gain beast you're fighting with to tame..

I think I'll grab another 5751 for the time being..


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I have owned several Splawns and each one has been amazing, with that said, I settled on the Yeti. I always wanted more saturation out of the Splawn to go along with that super tight percussive tone. The Yeti was closer to my "Idea" hot rod Marshall. What type of speakers are you using it with, I really like the yeti with greenbacks. I run mine ERA switch in the middle, Bright 2 on the left side, bright one center. bass 12 o'clock mids 2-3 o'clock highs 12-1 o'clock, resonance normally around 12-1 o'clock and presence to taste. Gain II around 12 o'clock and gain I around 12 o'clock. It still doesn't sound like a splawn but its very Marshall to me!


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endofall wrote:
I have owned several Splawns and each one has been amazing, with that said, I settled on the Yeti. I always wanted more saturation out of the Splawn to go along with that super tight percussive tone. The Yeti was closer to my "Idea" hot rod Marshall. What type of speakers are you using it with, I really like the yeti with greenbacks. I run mine ERA switch in the middle, Bright 2 on the left side, bright one center. bass 12 o'clock mids 2-3 o'clock highs 12-1 o'clock, resonance normally around 12-1 o'clock and presence to taste. Gain II around 12 o'clock and gain I around 12 o'clock. It still doesn't sound like a splawn but its very Marshall to me!



I think my cab is part of the issue. 4x12 G12T-75's and V30's. I want a new cab, but I can't give this one away. I'd really like to get an EVH 4x12! I may pick up a couple Greenbacks, and take out the T75's.


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^that might be part of the problem. Also consider this, the Yeti cleans up with volume knob super well, with modern mode and single coils i can get from heavy tones to a SRV sound just by rotating the knob. Be patient, it's a dope amp if you know how to use it


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This amp sounds like it'd be right up my alley, and I have the EVH 412 she deserves, so just send her my way when your done with her ;)

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MetalHeadMike wrote:
This amp sounds like it'd be right up my alley, and I have the EVH 412 she deserves, so just send her my way when your done with her ;)


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FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


The bright switches are simple. Center position = no bright cap. Like clipping the cap on a typical Marshall. To the right, there is a cap that increases gain for the high frequencies. To the left, there is a cap that increases gain for the upper mid frequencies and higher. If you think the switch is either too much or not enough, you can simply change the value of the capacitor attached to it to change the range of frequencies affected. Using both switches at the same time is way too much. You gotta find the right balance. And then if the switch is engaged, the corresponding gain control will change how much effect the cap has. The higher you set the gain control for its switch, the less the cap does. Just play around with it more.

This is a pretty good representation of how the Yeti inherently sounds:


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I owned a Yeti 100 and liked it a lot. It was actually one of the only amps that I ever got complimented on for tone from an audience member. I ran it through an EVH 4x12 with V30s and it was a killer combination. Think I only sold it to get the King Kong.

I agree that you can go overkill on the gain, but there's definitely a sweet spot depending on your guitar/speakers/pedals.


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napalmdeath wrote:
endofall wrote:
I have owned several Splawns and each one has been amazing, with that said, I settled on the Yeti. I always wanted more saturation out of the Splawn to go along with that super tight percussive tone. The Yeti was closer to my "Idea" hot rod Marshall. What type of speakers are you using it with, I really like the yeti with greenbacks. I run mine ERA switch in the middle, Bright 2 on the left side, bright one center. bass 12 o'clock mids 2-3 o'clock highs 12-1 o'clock, resonance normally around 12-1 o'clock and presence to taste. Gain II around 12 o'clock and gain I around 12 o'clock. It still doesn't sound like a splawn but its very Marshall to me!



I think my cab is part of the issue. 4x12 G12T-75's and V30's. I want a new cab, but I can't give this one away. I'd really like to get an EVH 4x12! I may pick up a couple Greenbacks, and take out the T75's.


Yeti likes V30s and Greenbacks. Probably also G12H-30s, but never used those.

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FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


The bright switches are simple. Center position = no bright cap. Like clipping the cap on a typical Marshall. To the right, there is a cap that increases gain for the high frequencies. To the left, there is a cap that increases gain for the upper mid frequencies and higher. If you think the switch is either too much or not enough, you can simply change the value of the capacitor attached to it to change the range of frequencies affected. Using both switches at the same time is way too much. You gotta find the right balance. And then if the switch is engaged, the corresponding gain control will change how much effect the cap has. The higher you set the gain control for its switch, the less the cap does. Just play around with it more.

This is a pretty good representation of how the Yeti inherently sounds:




I would think that if all Yeti’s sounded like that, they’d be more popular, no? Plus, I’ve heard that the loops aren’t the greatest.

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bionicmark wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


The bright switches are simple. Center position = no bright cap. Like clipping the cap on a typical Marshall. To the right, there is a cap that increases gain for the high frequencies. To the left, there is a cap that increases gain for the upper mid frequencies and higher. If you think the switch is either too much or not enough, you can simply change the value of the capacitor attached to it to change the range of frequencies affected. Using both switches at the same time is way too much. You gotta find the right balance. And then if the switch is engaged, the corresponding gain control will change how much effect the cap has. The higher you set the gain control for its switch, the less the cap does. Just play around with it more.

This is a pretty good representation of how the Yeti inherently sounds:




I would think that if all Yeti’s sounded like that, they’d be more popular, no? Plus, don’t they not have the greatest loops?


Honestly the Yeti IS quite a popular amp, I wouldnt say super popular cause tweaked marshall clones made by some US guy for $$$ will always have more mojo than a cheap amp made by an asian guy no matter the quality. But the Yeti DOES sound great, better than that demo actually (which sounds good, no offence, but It's a demo, and suffers the same problems all demos have), one may like it or not, but it wont ever be a bad or even mediocre sounding amp.
The loop is decent, not the greatest, not the worst.


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PostPosted: Sun, Sep 16, 2018 4:26pm 
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Zado wrote:
bionicmark wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
FourT6and2 wrote:
napalmdeath wrote:
Got it yesterday, and spent a couple hours with it. I gotta say, I'm disappointed. It has way too much gain! I get best useable tones in 60's mode, 70's mode I can't jive with, and modern mode is just way over the top. I don't find it as easy to find tones as a Splawn, I just find too much going on with all the switches.

And, what I was told was a half-power switch is actually an FX loop bypass. So, I'm disappointed with that too. At first I was pissed at the seller, because he was incorrect in his discription, but it is what it is, I can't really make him take it back.

Anybody buy a Yeti only to be disappointed, then work things out? There's something going on between gain 1 and gain 2 that I can't seem to find a happy medium. Some owners with some first-hand experiences, I'd love to hear your thoughts, as I may just flip it.

I will say, a 5751 in V2 worked very well. But, as it stands, I'm not as impressed as I think I should be. I don't really get a Marshall vibe from it. Now, I'm kicking myself for selling my 2525H. That amp rocked.

Any recommendations on an attenuator? A Fryette PS-2 is out of the question, GOOD LUCK finding one. That's the other issue. For those who claim to get great lower volume tones, I say B.S. This amp needs massive volume to open up.


Sounds like you might need to spend more time figuring out how all the controls work together. Have you spent much time with a Jose-modded amp before?

napalmdeath wrote:
It has new Mullard EL34's in it, and bias is on the money. I rolled some tubes, put a Tungsol in V1, NOS GE 5751 in V2, and Mullard CV4004 in V3.


Tungsol reissue will be too bright and gainy in these amps, as you've discovered.

napalmdeath wrote:
slaveunit wrote:
How are your bright switches set? How much have you played with those?


Currently, both far left. Both in 60's, and 80's. I've trued several variations, and I think middle on the 2nd switch bypasses that side.


Using both bright switches is one of the problems. Too much gain. Try Gain 1 switch to the left with Gain one at or below 12:00. Pull out the pot to engage the feel control. Then use Gain 2 as your main gain control. As you reduce Gain 1, it will reduce a bit of gain, but also make the bright cap you engaged with the switch more apparent. As you increase Gain 1, the cap will have less and less effect. If the amp with the zeners OFF has too much gain, though, you bought the wrong amp. These are high-gain amps, not really meant for AC/DC levels of gain even though they can do that. Ok, well not high-gain, because it's all diode clipping. But same thing.

If '80s mode (Era to the right) has too much compression and gain, you can try changing the zeners from 20v to 24v. But 20v zeners really don't have what most would consider an overabundance of clipping... The other mods suggested above are good. Reduce V1a plate load to 330K or even lower. Decrease slope resistor from 47K to 39K – 33K. And you can even try changing the 82K feel resistor off Gain 1 wiper to 68K.

Also these amps like a colder, mismatched bias. Bias to around 60%. Maybe a little higher. And then intentionally mismatch the bias by 3-5mA.

And set the pussy trimmer to about 470K-500K to get the typical voltage divider values. It's a 1MA pot, so that would be about 3:00 on the dial.

Go easy on the Presence and Treble. Push the mids.


Good info, thanks. Yes, the main source of cluster fuck is 2 gains, and the bright switches, (though they also add gain in certain positions). I'll try some preamp tube swapping tonight, and play with the knob a bit.


The bright switches are simple. Center position = no bright cap. Like clipping the cap on a typical Marshall. To the right, there is a cap that increases gain for the high frequencies. To the left, there is a cap that increases gain for the upper mid frequencies and higher. If you think the switch is either too much or not enough, you can simply change the value of the capacitor attached to it to change the range of frequencies affected. Using both switches at the same time is way too much. You gotta find the right balance. And then if the switch is engaged, the corresponding gain control will change how much effect the cap has. The higher you set the gain control for its switch, the less the cap does. Just play around with it more.

This is a pretty good representation of how the Yeti inherently sounds:




I would think that if all Yeti’s sounded like that, they’d be more popular, no? Plus, don’t they not have the greatest loops?


Honestly the Yeti IS quite a popular amp, I wouldnt say super popular cause tweaked marshall clones made by some US guy for $$$ will always have more mojo than a cheap amp made by an asian guy no matter the quality. But the Yeti DOES sound great, better than that demo actually (which sounds good, no offence, but It's a demo, and suffers the same problems all demos have), one may like it or not, but it wont ever be a bad or even mediocre sounding amp.
The loop is decent, not the greatest, not the worst.


Mine has upgraded tube buffered loop, no issues there. Effects all seem to work well.

As for clips, there's several on youtube, sure, but as with MANY amp clips, very few sound good. And that's for any amp, not the Yeti.


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True, but some fine clips are there. I remember James Lugo's mod squad amp shootout gave a fine idea of the sound of a Chupa compared to other hot rodded 'shalls for example.Me liked that, and the Yeti doesnt sounds worlds different


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I had a chupa early, and because it was awesome, thought the yeti would be the perfect tweak. Napalm, not sure what is up with your amp? I wont blame the amp based on history.

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chadprsman wrote:
I had a chupa early, and because it was awesome, thought the yeti would be the perfect tweak. Napalm, not sure what is up with your amp? I wont blame the amp based on history.



I've got it dialed in nicely, it RIPS. My Xotic EP really sounds dope with it, with just a hair of boost. Thick and juicy!


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