Rig-Talk

Guitars, Gear, Tone!
It is currently Fri, Oct 24, 2014 6:04pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 12:47pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
So I switched my bridge from the stock "EVH" korean floyd to a OFR. No problem there.

I'm having a bitch of time getting set back up the way it was though. Is the bridge supposed to sit parallel in the little recess, or is it ok to have it angled upward a little bit? When it is sitting parallel in there the guitar buzzes and seems to fret out in spots. The only way for it to sound clear is to raise the bridge up.

It just seems like the bridge should not be angled like that .. like this | \ Where | is the post and \ is the edge, of course the angle is very exaggerated there. I would think it should be | --- like that.

Do I need to shim the nut a bit? I don't know what I'm doing here. Oh, I did try to adjust the truss rod a little to add some slack, but that didn't help much.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 8:11pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Nobody?

I know it's not nearly as interesting as a tube covers on or off debate but come on.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 9:07pm 
Offline
Rock God
User avatar

Joined: Wed, Dec 09, 2009 11:00am
Posts: 6176
Location: Chicagoish
The bridge should be parallel with the body. I hate to say it, but this is one of the reasons I got rid if my Wolfgang. I've set up dozens of guitars on the past with no problem but the Wolfgang pissed me off one too many times and off it went. I could never get rid of the buzz. I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 9:48pm 
Offline
Immortal Rock God
User avatar

Joined: Mon, Jun 26, 2006 8:50am
Posts: 21518
Location: Connecticut
No problem with the back angled up a bit, lots of bar abusers do that with charvels to get multi-octave pull ups. Mess around raising and lowering the posts as well, will not hurt anything.

_________________
My clips: http://www.youtube.com/user/digijams
http://tonefinder.com/files/94-Natas%20 ... 0test2.mp3


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 10:28pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Fri, Jul 17, 2009 11:09pm
Posts: 1833
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
The knife edges should be parallel to the trem post unless you are resting the trem against the body (non floating).

_________________
-Chris


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon, May 23, 2011 11:08pm 
Offline
Supah Stah
User avatar

Joined: Wed, Jan 10, 2007 5:40pm
Posts: 3387
steal the little shim off the crappy floyd. The one between the block and the base. That should level it up ;)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue, May 24, 2011 10:36am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
^^ Might be an idea there...

I'm wondering if anyone would be kind enough to post a pic of their bridge from the side so I can see how it should look. Also, one from underneath the trem in the back. Mine seems to have two layers of depth. In the recess there is a swallow level painted, and below that bare wood. The trem rests on the bare wood section, and that's where it seems low. It seems like mine is lower than any pictures or videos I see online. Something's not right.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 2:36pm 
Offline
Journeyman NOOB
User avatar

Joined: Sat, Jul 01, 2006 11:45pm
Posts: 197
Lp Freak wrote:
I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:


Sounds like you had a lemon. Sorry to hear about your experience, but I wouldn't write off an entire line of guitars because of one clunker.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:22pm 
Offline
Rock God
User avatar

Joined: Wed, Dec 09, 2009 11:00am
Posts: 6176
Location: Chicagoish
The Jeff wrote:
Lp Freak wrote:
I think the necks are very unstable and the overall quality sucks. For the same money buy a used Anderson and you'll never look back. :yes:


Sounds like you had a lemon. Sorry to hear about your experience, but I wouldn't write off an entire line of guitars because of one clunker.

It's possible, but I'm just telling it the way it is. :scared:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:26pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Sat, May 16, 2009 11:07am
Posts: 1470
Location: Chandler, AZ
bsp01 wrote:
So I switched my bridge from the stock "EVH" korean floyd to a OFR. No problem there.

I'm having a bitch of time getting set back up the way it was though. Is the bridge supposed to sit parallel in the little recess, or is it ok to have it angled upward a little bit? When it is sitting parallel in there the guitar buzzes and seems to fret out in spots. The only way for it to sound clear is to raise the bridge up.

It just seems like the bridge should not be angled like that .. like this | \ Where | is the post and \ is the edge, of course the angle is very exaggerated there. I would think it should be | --- like that.

Do I need to shim the nut a bit? I don't know what I'm doing here. Oh, I did try to adjust the truss rod a little to add some slack, but that didn't help much.



Bridge should be set "decked" - that is, the base plate flat on the body and and level. Shim the neck to raise or lower action. Relief should be very flat, like .003 - .005


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:29pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Sat, May 16, 2009 11:07am
Posts: 1470
Location: Chandler, AZ
@ Lp Freak - Did you have a Korea or a USA??
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:37pm 
Offline
Journeyman NOOB
User avatar

Joined: Sat, Jul 01, 2006 11:45pm
Posts: 197
TeleBlaster wrote:
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.


Right. I honestly can't think of a more solid neck on a production guitar. I've always thought if I were to throw one of my Wolfgangs off my roof it would probably still be perfectly in tune when I picked it up. :thumbsup:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:41pm 
Offline
Journeyman NOOB
User avatar

Joined: Sat, Jul 01, 2006 11:45pm
Posts: 197
@TeleBlaster:
Love that FR Tele in your avatar...what body material/pups do you have in there?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 4:44pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Sat, May 16, 2009 11:07am
Posts: 1470
Location: Chandler, AZ
I had one blow over in a parking lot, in the stand, face down, right on the cement!!

I thought for sure it was a goner. Picked it up, it was fine, and still in perfect tune! Though there was not a scratch on the body or headstock, I had to replace the little bolts in the locking nut pieces as the allen heads were totally smushed.


The Tele is a USA Custom Guitars swamp ash.
BareKnuckle Nailbomb in the bridge, Mississippi Queen in the neck.
Thanks! My first partsocaster project, it plays and sounds like a million bucks!

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 6:09pm 
Offline
Rock God
User avatar

Joined: Wed, Dec 09, 2009 11:00am
Posts: 6176
Location: Chicagoish
TeleBlaster wrote:
@ Lp Freak - Did you have a Korea or a USA??
My USA's have the most rigid, stable necks ever. The necks use graphite rods to keep them from flexing too much and going sharp when using the D-Tuna.

I had the USA version.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 6:29pm 
Offline
Rock God

Joined: Mon, Jul 06, 2009 10:07am
Posts: 6320
I had a special and a USA. They were very picky about the setup. I remember the best I found was having it rest on the body. With every Floyd I have owned I find it best to have a very slight tilt back. Barely noticeable from parallel. I would adjust the neck to .009 at the seventh in between the G and D strings with a 24" ruler going down the full lenghth of the neck with a feeler gauge. Another problem I have found with Floyds is previous owners do not know that the saddles are not all the same. There are low, medium, and high saddles on the bridge. You will never get it right(no buzz) if these have been mixed up. They are numbered on the OFR and most of the licensed ones have dots. I just put them on a flat surface and its easy to tell. Not all know this. The lowest saddles are for both E strings, medium for the A and B, and high for the D and G strings. Definitely check these. People remove them to clean and just put them back any old way assuming they are all the same. Good luck.

_________________
Good deals with Steve K, Ttosh, Cyndicate, Moshaholic, Sswanson,
Immersed,Moltenmetalburn,MOOSEHEADS,Drumdude,Ignoramus,Espquade,smdb,
RG955T,pfapin05,TheHoff,Braciola,Inception,Dewd,JCJ,Roodboy,RickyRockhardo,
gbsmusic,Ignoramus,RipleyRipley,WizardOzz,Spaceboy,Tonmazz,Sjk,warhead78,
fuzzyguitars,bwgintegra,Bluplirstand,londaxe,* velcro-fly *many others


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 10:09pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker
User avatar

Joined: Fri, Apr 29, 2011 10:49pm
Posts: 804
Location: NJ
You shouldnt have to shim anything... Set the bridge against the body of the guitar and adjust the action by raising or lowering the bridge with the post screws.

The Original Floyd base plate is probably thinner then the licensed version and the bridge needs to be raised a bit.

I've had my Peavey Wolfgang since '03, play it every day and have never once had to adjust the neck. The frets have been dressed once and even then my tech said the neck was fine. Most stable guitar I've ever owned!!!

_________________
---RCM78
http://www.facebook.com/theruckusnj

Good deals with - RockStarNick - Lublin - Kidkramer71 - Guitarsignals - roodboy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 10:27pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Fri, Mar 14, 2008 3:00pm
Posts: 1474
Location: Homestead, FL
I've NEVER had a problem with mine.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed, May 25, 2011 10:31pm 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee

Joined: Wed, Feb 04, 2009 11:40am
Posts: 798
search for rock and roll weekend that site has some good EVH set up info !


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 7:15am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Thanks for the input guys. I think I found the problem. The stock floyd has a shim under the saddles. With the shim, the radius is 10", the EVH is 12-16 compound radius. Removing the shim will put the bridge at 12", but I'm going to also get a few saddle shims and shim certain saddles to get it better for the 16" radius.

I'm pretty sure once I've got the saddles shims in it will play better than it did from the factory.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 8:02am 
Offline
Rock God

Joined: Mon, Jul 06, 2009 10:07am
Posts: 6320
bsp01 wrote:
Thanks for the input guys. I think I found the problem. The stock floyd has a shim under the saddles. With the shim, the radius is 10", the EVH is 12-16 compound radius. Removing the shim will put the bridge at 12", but I'm going to also get a few saddle shims and shim certain saddles to get it better for the 16" radius.

I'm pretty sure once I've got the saddles shims in it will play better than it did from the factory.

Before you shim, make sure the saddles are in the correct spots as I posted above, low , medium, and high saddles. You may not need to shim.

_________________
Good deals with Steve K, Ttosh, Cyndicate, Moshaholic, Sswanson,
Immersed,Moltenmetalburn,MOOSEHEADS,Drumdude,Ignoramus,Espquade,smdb,
RG955T,pfapin05,TheHoff,Braciola,Inception,Dewd,JCJ,Roodboy,RickyRockhardo,
gbsmusic,Ignoramus,RipleyRipley,WizardOzz,Spaceboy,Tonmazz,Sjk,warhead78,
fuzzyguitars,bwgintegra,Bluplirstand,londaxe,* velcro-fly *many others


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 8:09am 
Offline
Rock God Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Jun 27, 2006 9:43pm
Posts: 4754
Digital Jams wrote:
No problem with the back angled up a bit, lots of bar abusers do that with charvels to get multi-octave pull ups. Mess around raising and lowering the posts as well, will not hurt anything.


+1, some of my charvels with floyds that aren't routed are angled forward a bit so I can pull up G string harmonics a 4th.

Pete

_________________
http://petesprofiles.weebly.com/ Kemper Profiles of my favorite amps for download!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 8:32am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Sat, May 16, 2009 11:07am
Posts: 1470
Location: Chandler, AZ
The Wolfgang is a dive only. You may try to get it to float for pull up, but then the D-tuna is useless. You are on the right track with shimming the saddle pieces for radius. I had assumed that you had already done that. Use a radius gauge on the strings. You can also use shims on individual saddle pieces.
The best tone and function that you are going to get out of your Wolfgang is by doing what I described previously. When the bridge is set on the body correctly, you only have a very narrow range of height adjustment. You have to shim the neck pocket to get it real close. On every Wolfgang USA Standard I've owned and had setup at Peavey, only one had a perfect match of neck, body and bridge that did not need to have the neck shimmed. It's a bolt on neck, shimming it for perfect geometry is not a big deal, and in fact when you get the Peavey guys to do a custom setup on your guitar this exactly what they do.
Floyds setup for dive only are a different animal than floaters. There is more to the setup but the guitar will end up with superior tone and stability.
If you really don't want to shim the neck, and you have to raise the bridge so the base plate is not lying flat on the body, then you will have to block the bridge.
Make a wood block that fits perfectly in between the sustain block and the body and glue it in place.

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 8:47am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Wanker
User avatar

Joined: Sat, May 16, 2009 11:07am
Posts: 1470
Location: Chandler, AZ
....also, if you have the opposite problem, can't get action low enough, what will happen is that as you lower the bridge the base plate will bind on the edge of the rout and begin to tilt forward slightly. This will cause a situation where the bridge will not return securely to the same spot after a dive.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 9:25am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
glip22 wrote:
bsp01 wrote:
Thanks for the input guys. I think I found the problem. The stock floyd has a shim under the saddles. With the shim, the radius is 10", the EVH is 12-16 compound radius. Removing the shim will put the bridge at 12", but I'm going to also get a few saddle shims and shim certain saddles to get it better for the 16" radius.

I'm pretty sure once I've got the saddles shims in it will play better than it did from the factory.

Before you shim, make sure the saddles are in the correct spots as I posted above, low , medium, and high saddles. You may not need to shim.


Yeah, I was careful about those saddles, they're ok. I have to remove the shim under them.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 9:27am 
Offline
Plank Cranker Trainee
User avatar

Joined: Tue, Feb 24, 2009 1:26pm
Posts: 340
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
TeleBlaster wrote:
The Wolfgang is a dive only. You may try to get it to float for pull up, but then the D-tuna is useless. You are on the right track with shimming the saddle pieces for radius. I had assumed that you had already done that. Use a radius gauge on the strings. You can also use shims on individual saddle pieces.


Haha... a bad assumption, but then you don't know me so it's completely understandable. In my naivety I just assumed I could pop the old bridge out, pop in a new one and set the intonation and be finished.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu, May 26, 2011 11:45am 
Offline
Chickenhead

Joined: Tue, Aug 28, 2007 8:29pm
Posts: 6036
TeleBlaster wrote:
Make a wood block that fits perfectly in between the sustain block and the body and glue it in place.

Image

I've been doing that to all of my floyded guitars for at least 20 years. I hate how a floating floyd knocks all the strings out of tune with string bends...plus you get much better wood resonance with the extra contact.

As far as the Wolfgang....never had an issue the all the ones I've had....there's nothing wrong with the stock floyd IMO.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Leotis, rubyAudio, scary groove and 22 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group