Understanding intricacies of True Bypass pedals

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Music&Chaos

Music&Chaos

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Final Update:

Discovered that one of my pedals, the G-2 clone, has a buffer in it.


Hello RT,

I recently was doing some experimenting with my pedals and was thrown off.

I was doing some testing and realized that when the pre-amp section of my board will not fully pass signal through when powered off.

I have all true bypass pedals, so this threw me. The signal is there, it is just weak. If I plug power in, my sound goes back to full/normal.

I test my setup all the time with the FX loop pedals left in without power and do not experience this issue.

I need to go through my board and find the specific pedal causing this issue, if it is even really an issue.....more of a curiosity.

I found this post that talks about something similar happening but not quite the same.

I still get sound if they are unpowered, just a thin one, almost like I am hearing the signal being bled off or something.

If power is applied, even if no pedals are on, my full sound returns.




In this person's scenario, they would not get any sound when their pedal did not have power, though it was a true bypass.


"Yup, sounds like a relay true bypass.

I've mentioned this in another post before, but using the 'remove power' method to test for true bypass is a crapshoot at best.

Something like a CryBaby wah with a SPDT switch and an input buffer will still pass signal when unpowered (albeit, the signal being passed won't be buffered). It's still not true bypass. A pedal using a traditional DPDT switch to switch both the signal and ground of the input jack directly to the output jack will also pass signal when unpowered. This is true bypass.

A transistor switching buffered pedal like a Boss pedal won't pass signal when unpowered. It's not true bypass. A relay based true bypass system also may not pass signal when unpowered; however this is still true bypass.

In other words, removing power as a 'test' for true bypass is pretty meaningless; whether a pedal passes signal or not when unpowered has little bearing on the type of bypass, as different methods of both buffered or true bypass may or may not pass signal without power."




When I find the individual pedal in question, it may help further explain the phenomenon.
 
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with my true bypass pedals it's a hard wired true bypass ..... if the pedal isn't on it's just like a patch cable ....

with the relay true bypass ... you need power ...... or the signal will basically barely make it through .....
 
What pedals are you using?
Great question and I guess I should have included that. I will go through pedals individually when I get a chance and see if I experience the issue, just thought it was interesting.

The lineup and order:

Fulltone Clyde Deluxe

Keeley Comp +

Red witch Fuzz God IV

Several Griffin Analog pedals

Strymon Ola


Again, I will start section testing and then individual testing. Mostly just curious if what is happening.
 
with my true bypass pedals it's a hard wired true bypass ..... if the pedal isn't on it's just like a patch cable ....

with the relay true bypass ... you need power ...... or the signal will basically barely make it through .....
Of course your stuff is exactly the way I would want it... I am almost not even surprised at this point.

I have a feeling it is the Red Witch FGIV.

Will do some testing later today and see what's up.
 
Of course your stuff is exactly the way I would want it... I am almost not even surprised at this point.

I have a feeling it is the Red Witch FGIV.

Will do some testing later today and see what's up.
It's probably anything digital .....
 
I am going to power up the board and unplug the pedals 1 by 1 until the issue occurs as soon as I get a break.
 
I’d suggest two buffer pedals. One at the input and one at the output. There could be an issue with a switch, but you still should use buffers.
 
Hendrix-Pedals-True-Bypass.jpg
 
with my true bypass pedals it's a hard wired true bypass ..... if the pedal isn't on it's just like a patch cable ....

with the relay true bypass ... you need power ...... or the signal will basically barely make it through .....

Yeah but you can implement it so that the pedal is in bypass when the relay is not powered so in fact it works just like a physical true bypass with a mechanical switch (the relay being a powered mechanical switch anyway).
 
I’d suggest two buffer pedals. One at the input and one at the output. There could be an issue with a switch, but you still should use buffers.
I have already tested/tried this and have no need for a buffer with this setup.

Any time a buffer is active at the front, or end of the signal, it affects the frequency range in a way that I dislike.

I appreciate the suggestion and have heard many setups that definitely do need them, but this one definitely does not.
 
I will be testing this later today finally if I can break away.

I do not have any digital pedals in the preamp chain other than the Ola, which has analog dry-through.

Maybe the Fulltone Wah (Though the buffer is always kept off/inactive).

Interested to see what this could be and will be sure to post my results.
 
Some not all True Bypass pedals have tone suck..... some more than others......



Part of the reason I cant use pedals like the CM-2 Hardwire for example......


Just too much tone suck..... its pretty much unusable..... others can be mitigated with a buffer before or after...... but everyonce in a while sometimes nothing can help a true bypass pedal with loads of tone suck even with messing with placement or buffers....


YMMV but discretion is advised with True Bypass pedals...... they suck as much tone or more so than buffer pedals IME :dunno:
 
Some not all True Bypass pedals have tone suck..... some more than others......



Part of the reason I cant use pedals like the CM-2 Hardwire for example......


Just too much tone suck..... its pretty much unusable..... others can be mitigated with a buffer before or after...... but everyonce in a while sometimes nothing can help a true bypass pedal with loads of tone suck even with messing with placement or buffers....


YMMV but discretion is advised with True Bypass pedals...... they suck as much tone or more so than buffer pedals IME :dunno:
This thread point is being lost a bit - this is not about any tone loss whatsoever when using true bypass pedals, it is that one pedal in my chain is not behaving like a true bypass when power is cut to the device(s).

I have zero need for a buffer with my current setup. I can actiavate the end of loop ones easily via either of the Strymon units. I can also activate the buffer within my Fuzz God pedal by selecting either one of the options like octave or oscillator but not engaging the on/off button for the effect, this engages the buffer part of that pedal only. I can do the same thing by selecting favorite on the Ola but not turning the effect on.

I have also tried stand alone buffers, etc.

In this extremely specific setup - somehow - the buffers always reduce/degrade the spectrum frequency.

Weird, I know, but this amp just does not like buffers I guess.
 
UPDATE:

Ends up, the culprit was my Griffin Analog G-2 (Cornish). This has me wondering if this has a buffer in it or if it is the relay/bypass system. Not of his own design, so i will check out the circuit specs and all that to try to see. Interesting....so I MAY already have a buffer in the chain? I am going to A/B my sound with the pedal out vs in and hear the results when I can.
 
Update to the update:

The G-2 pedal DOES in fact have a buffer in it. @psychodave this is probably why the chain does not like a buffer engaged....there already is one!

I am going to test my sound with and without the buffer to see which I prefer.

Everything is a learning process....but that's what makes it fun!

I removed that pedal from the chain and powered down my board.

Guitar still sounds awesome, like I just have one solid cable running straight to my amp.

Glad to understand what is going on finally.
 
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