Recent content by GlideOn

Yes, that is also true. I stand by what I said earlier, unfortunately...

I've also had issues with my ground bus too when adding a gain stage. Getting it away from the Master Volume and Treble controls and shortening the overall excess length of the bus of helped with mine.

This place seems downright reasonable compared to EL34 and Amp Garage. Talk about entitled boomers who will gang up on someone for asking the wrong question and lose their minds when you call them out on it

Let's entertain the very feasible (and affordable) possibility of using the Harley Benton PA-100 attenuator & dummy load box...

True, I haven't even though of using a simple Line Out! Is the dedicated OT Line Out different than what would be present on an attenuator? Or would it be better to do from the amp like this diagram?: Also, the Suhr Load Box just seems the more expensive version of the one I posted in post...

The Hotplate is still hundreds of dollars more to do the same thing my Weber is doing, still with no headphone tab or cab emulation. If anything, I'm more intrigued by the Harley Benton PA-100 which advertises silent load capability and is well under $100 with favorable reviews. That plus the...

I had thought as much, so passive FX Loop is not sufficient. I wanted to install the Granger FX Loop for pedals anyways as it has leveling trim pots for send and return built-in to the ends of the input jacks and adjust through them via screwdriver. I can easily install the loop in between...

Hipshot is awesome for fixed and 2 points trem bridges, but they're a little late to the game for Tune-O-Matics. So as long as it has some locking mechanism it should be compatible to anything else. Personally I already have Faber hardware on my Les Pauls and I can't imagine a better locking...

Honestly, Hoffman's/EL34 world is the new hellhole. I recently watched a mod actively discourage someone and berate, bully for another member asking advice working on his own damn amp because he didn't want to see it get "ruined." Then they have to gall to threaten to ban me for calling out...

Look again. The Sim box has cab emulation, power tube emulation and resonance to boot. Really the only thing it doesn't do is attenuate the power amp as it is not an attenuator. It's also not $$$. It's $$. That's hugely important. Also, I couldn't care less about what the power section is...

I'm looking to install an FX Loop on a Soldano style 1x12 amp/preamp that currently has none. Basically I want to use headphones for silent practices, but instead of a hugely expensive attenuator with all the bells as and whistles, use instead a dummy load and one of these clever DI/Cab Sim...

What was the value(s) of the dual pot you used? I've noticed pots with 15k or more difference start to get those artifacts when down low. I currently have one with less than 4k difference an the sound is super smooth all the way to a low trickle volume.

It's probably likely that most of us enthusiasts who don't have factories printing out exacting PCBs will just continue to wire them in the classic point-to-point fashion. It's really hard to improve upon the LarMar design except perhaps adding variable NFB, adjust the PI section to taste.

All good suggestions, yes. Reducing the PI entry cap is also a great way to cut some 'fat' out of it without neutering the gain. I think you'll find that you may not have to add "high cut" once you tame the bass, so it's not excessively bright

Yes, I have installed several LarMar over the years and have typically used the 2.2M in parallel with the 250k pot. Even put one in a 130w Fender UL Twin, but that one was a Dual 100k with 2.2M in parallel and had a crap ton shielded wire wrapping around 1/3 of the amp - not the most graceful...