What year is your QR? I have a 2007 early 4 button model.. mine is amazing but was a bit dark.. added a simple bright cap.. but will have to try this.. Its amazing how well this amp goes from mid 60's plexi to rip roaring modded 800.. do you use a boost out front?.. what kind works for you?
Kyle's vid was clear..the amp rips...was impressed with the crunch mode as well.. very plexi esque.. with JCM 800 drive.. the lead was just huge.. the head to head vs the SLO was no contest .. bigger sound .. beefier lows but remained clear.. I have a Splawn QR older model which can get dull at...
I was in to see Scott last year.. he gave me about an hour of chat time when he was working.. great guy.. great amps and cabs.. I might be thinking about another newbie with all the bells and whistles.. my 2007 is old school.. no add ons.. lol
not sure about coming off standby as my Quickrod is quiet there.. but powering off the caps or something give a nice squeal as if they are draining or something.. is typical i think.. rather than just changing tubes have a tech look it over first.. could be something else.. tubes are still very...
I stopped by his shop in March.. he is on limited crew.. mainly himself.. he may be indisposed but normally tells you to call his cell when you email him.. may be on Vacation or having an issue.. he is a good dude..
My amp Tech told me that generally you should cut the impedance in half.. but amps can be mismatched and handle ONE SETTING on either end for a few hours with no issues.. where you get in trouble is running the amp on 16 ohm tap into a 4 ohm load.. this is what causes the issues longer term...
If you mentioned it "used" to sound good.. it may be a tube.. have a good tech go over it.. and while you are at it have them check the loop as well.. may be an issue there.. I will let you know if my issue with bias and a screen grid resistor was my issue when I get her back from the shop...