Rex Rocker
Well-known member
Kinda.
The TS was the answer to the original Boss OD-1.
Then came the SD-1 which is literally a Tube Screamer circuit with some different values here and there, and an extra diode in one side of the clipping stage.
So I have 4 Boss SD-1’s
- Thread starter EyesOfTheSouth!
- Start date
The TS was the answer to the original Boss OD-1.
Then came the SD-1 which is literally a Tube Screamer circuit with some different values here and there, and an extra diode in one side of the clipping stage.
CEG85
Active member
After using a Maxon od808 for a number of years, I finally decided to grab the SD-1 today.
Hooked it up in front of a Marshall 1959slp and messed with it for about an hour.
My initial thoughts were, The od808 is more hi-fi in a sense when comparing the 2.
Dunno if I played the od808 for so long but I preferred the sd-1 in front of the Marshall.
Sounded more grindy and aggressive.
Great pedal….
Hooked it up in front of a Marshall 1959slp and messed with it for about an hour.
My initial thoughts were, The od808 is more hi-fi in a sense when comparing the 2.
Dunno if I played the od808 for so long but I preferred the sd-1 in front of the Marshall.
Sounded more grindy and aggressive.
Great pedal….
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mnemonic
Active member
Tubescreamer and SD1 circuit are generally the same but there are more part value differences than just asymmetrical vs symmetrical clipping. Tone section I think is also different. Pull up a schematic for each and follow the signal flow, you can see what is the same and what is different.
I have an early 90’s Taiwanese SD1, only one I’ve ever played. These days I usually use my axe FX for most stuff but I still have my pedalboard in front as I like being able to just click on a boost without navigating menus. Also I always thought the SD1 model in the axe FX was inaccurate as it was tighter, and more narrow/focused than my real SD1. Though it feels like the modern Taiwan vs Japanese description in the first post so maybe it’s just modeled after a new-ish SD1. I didn’t know they varied.
The tubescreamer model in the axe FX is dead-nuts the same as my early 90’s TS9, at least.
I have an early 90’s Taiwanese SD1, only one I’ve ever played. These days I usually use my axe FX for most stuff but I still have my pedalboard in front as I like being able to just click on a boost without navigating menus. Also I always thought the SD1 model in the axe FX was inaccurate as it was tighter, and more narrow/focused than my real SD1. Though it feels like the modern Taiwan vs Japanese description in the first post so maybe it’s just modeled after a new-ish SD1. I didn’t know they varied.
The tubescreamer model in the axe FX is dead-nuts the same as my early 90’s TS9, at least.
Speeddemon
Well-known member
Got an MIJ one as well, no clue what year, and while nice (especially with humbuckers), I found that with singlecoils the OD-3 works a bit better and sound more natural. Also, it's a way better stand-alone overdrive than the SD-1 is.
OD-3 has less mid-hump, more low-end and a more organic crunch, FWIW.
OD-3 has less mid-hump, more low-end and a more organic crunch, FWIW.
mrmega
Active member
The SD-1 is one of my favorite pedals of all time too. I have 5 myself, an old MIT, 3 modded MITs (Franklin Pro Mod, Indyguitarist Mod and the Keeley GE 5 Star Mod-which has a BurBrown chip instead of a jrc 4558) and the WazaCraft. I just got the Waza. It's insane pushing my JVM410h.
I haven't played the modded ones in years. Now I'm gonna have to go grab them and see what's up.
I always wanted an older MIJ one. Just have never stumbled on the right deal.
I haven't played the modded ones in years. Now I'm gonna have to go grab them and see what's up.
I always wanted an older MIJ one. Just have never stumbled on the right deal.
SpiderWars
Well-known member
It's amazing how different they sound being so close. Marshall 2203/2204 are assymetrical due to the cold clipper so it makes sense the SD1 would be a good match.
Findthetone1
Well-known member
I've never had an SD-1 and have been toying with the idea of the WAZA version but it almost sounds like it's not worth the extra $ vs the standard one.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
thenine
Well-known member
I have had an AnalogMan modded SD1 for many years. Push/pull knob changes it back and forth from TS9 to SD1. Haven’t needed another. I also have a DS1 I bought back in 1982 when I was 14. It’s beat shit but still kills.
I saw someone mentioned HM2. Cool pedal have one of those too. Super snarly with dramatic EQ. I know some Euros were using that into a clean amp with knobs maxed for extreme metal.
I saw someone mentioned HM2. Cool pedal have one of those too. Super snarly with dramatic EQ. I know some Euros were using that into a clean amp with knobs maxed for extreme metal.
Kapo_Polenton
Well-known member
JHS should update the Bonsai and ditch 2 of the crappier TS circuits and just add a really good MIJ SD-1 and DS-1. It has the Keeley and JHS mods in it already. that would be the one to slay them all.
Racerxrated
Well-known member
And in contrast to my setup, I feel the SD1 (1986) is essential on my board in ‘off’ mode when I boost my 72 Marshall using 2 other pedals. If I remove the SD1, the tone becomes almost ‘too much’ and gets smeared a bit vs having the SD1 in, and tightens it and adds clarity. Strange but true.
Kapo_Polenton
Well-known member
I used to have the digitech bad monkey on my board in pass through mode just because i liked what the buffer did to the tone. Strange as it is, that's a thing!
EyesOfTheSouth!
Well-known member
I agree. I have a new version BB Preamp that I occasionally use for a different flavor boost. But without a bypassed SD-1 in front of it, it is too smeared/compressed for me.
SQUAREHEAD
Well-known member
Both of these pedals have the 1S2473 diodes, But they differ in the 4558C (‘81) / 4558DD (‘84).
I don’t know guys, I can do a blind test and have my buddy exchange these two with my 2 newer MIT ones and I immediately can hear the difference, and the older ones sound better, I can hear it…
Now, Maybe I’ve just have 2 ‘lemon’ MIT’s, who knows.
1981 with 4558C
Extremely lightning FAST attack, very lively, bright and open, (Bright in a ‘good way’)
No Congestion, just lots of beautiful headroom.
No fog, no hesitation, the notes explode immediately. Sounds and feels massive!
Very tight bass.
More aggressive / tighter than the 1984 pedal.
1984 with 4558DD
Very fat tone with slightly more gain, fantastic for lead playing.
Slightly slower attack. Maybe a touch more brown/fat than the 1981, but at the cost of less tightness.
A little ‘smoother’ / silkier / warmer / prettier than the 1981 pedal.
I don’t know guys, I can do a blind test and have my buddy exchange these two with my 2 newer MIT ones and I immediately can hear the difference, and the older ones sound better, I can hear it…
Now, Maybe I’ve just have 2 ‘lemon’ MIT’s, who knows.
1981 with 4558C
Extremely lightning FAST attack, very lively, bright and open, (Bright in a ‘good way’)
No Congestion, just lots of beautiful headroom.
No fog, no hesitation, the notes explode immediately. Sounds and feels massive!
Very tight bass.
More aggressive / tighter than the 1984 pedal.
1984 with 4558DD
Very fat tone with slightly more gain, fantastic for lead playing.
Slightly slower attack. Maybe a touch more brown/fat than the 1981, but at the cost of less tightness.
A little ‘smoother’ / silkier / warmer / prettier than the 1981 pedal.
Greazygeo
Well-known member
Interesting, I have used a VHT V-1 in front of my pedals since they came out...similar deal probably.
Kapo_Polenton
Well-known member
Then on top of that, there is the individual tolerance of the parts on the board. But no doubt the chip makes a diff. My 90's MIT sounds great but definitely as the gain goes up, it gets a little hairier and gritty. It just seems like whatever the year it was issued. the SD-1 is almost always usable for a gain boost. I should take a look at the circuit board and see what it is running chip wise.