Floyd Rose brass block upgrades?

ledvedder

Well-known member
I have a 1984 Floyd Rose which has a 37mm brass block. I've thought about upgrading it to either a 37mm L shaped brass block, or even a 42mm one. Is it worth the upgrade? Has anyone done this and noticed any differences?
 
Yes.

Do it.

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I personally think they add sustain and the harmonics are better also to me it's a no-brainer
 
I have replace a few German Floyds w/ "upgraded" brass blocks with stock Gotoh 1996Ts, and have no regrets. It makes a difference, but whether the difference is good or not is up to you.
 
IME heavier blocks change the tone (it gets darker) but not sustain.
I’ve wondered this. I’ve got an EVH WG…killer player but super thin. I’m mean really thin sounding. Could be the dude playing it too but…wonder if the fat brass L block will give a little less (bright)/thin.
 
I like the upgraded block I put in my Warnoth. I may even upgrade my Wulffson. I've got a usa Washburn coming I'll probably upgrade too.
 
I’ve wondered this. I’ve got an EVH WG…killer player but super thin. I’m mean really thin sounding. Could be the dude playing it too but…wonder if the fat brass L block will give a little less (bright)/thin.
I've tried a lot of blocks, including various sizes of brass and tungsten. To me, the heavier the block, the more treble it lops off.
That's what's keeping me from upgrading the stock block with my OFR on my Warmoth build. It's a mahogany body with a maple top. I don't want any darker tone.
Supposedly the titanium blocks will add some zing. I've never tried one of those of spoke with Tom Anderson about them long time ago.
 
I’ve wondered this. I’ve got an EVH WG…killer player but super thin. I’m mean really thin sounding. Could be the dude playing it too but…wonder if the fat brass L block will give a little less (bright)/thin.

I recently changed my WG Standards from the stock 2 springs to 4 Raw Vintage springs. I think these helped give them a bit more body and sustain. I looked at the brass blocks, but thought I would try the low tension springs first since you can double the amount of springs and have the same tension. My thinking was that more bridge-body contact points would increase the resonance and vibration transfer.
 
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I recently changed my WG Standards from the stock 2 springs to 4 Raw Vintage springs. I think these helped give them a bit more body and sustain. I looked at the brass blocks, but thought I would try the low tension springs first since you can double the amount of springs and have the same tension. My thinking was that more bridge-body contact points would increase the resonance and vibration transfer.
I'd be interested in trying these on my Wolfgang. Where do you get them?
 
It sounds insane but the Raw Vintage springs legit made my guitars more resonant/warm/thicker sounding. Springs! I never would have believed it if I hadn't heard it.
 
It sounds insane but the Raw Vintage springs legit made my guitars more resonant/warm/thicker sounding. Springs! I never would have believed it if I hadn't heard it.
I was researching the brass blocks last week because I have an old MIJ Charvel that could be thicker sounding. Then I remembered I had a set of the Raw Vintage springs in a drawer I bought like 7-8 years ago. Threw them in there, replacing 3 springs with 5. They definitely made the Charvel sound fuller and more resonant. Not a HUGE difference, but noticeable enough that I bought more sets and put them in my Wolfgang Standards. I am pretty happy with them now. I thought about the brass blocks, but I dont want too much low end mush, and I dont want to restrict the movement of my Floyds.
 
I’ve put big brass blocks in a couple guitars. I perceived the change as more mids, not as darker. It’s not a huge difference but it’s there. These are significantly larger and don’t restrict the Floyd’s movement. Take measurements so you know the max. length until movement is diminished. Got mine from FU Tone.
 
I’ve put big brass blocks in a couple guitars. I perceived the change as more mids, not as darker. It’s not a huge difference but it’s there. These are significantly larger and don’t restrict the Floyd’s movement. Take measurements so you know the max. length until movement is diminished. Got mine from FU Tone.
I used the "FU Tone" upgrade big brass block on a Schaller Floyd Rose.

It definitely has a positive affect on your tone.

It does also give a small increase in sustain - which make sense because that part of the tremolo system is know as the "sustain block".

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I've tried a lot of blocks, including various sizes of brass and tungsten. To me, the heavier the block, the more treble it lops off.

Supposedly the titanium blocks will add some zing. I've never tried one of those of spoke with Tom Anderson about them long time ago.
Yes, Titanium will add more highs, clarity, output(seems louder by a touch).....

This subject is really guitar dependent. If you have a dud/dead sounding guitar, a bigger block will help. Dark? Titanium. Too bright/zingy? Brass. Its about experimenting....my last 84 Charvel, I put a brass block in and it was overpowering, too much...back in went the stock block. Just gotta see how you like it.
Here's the eBay Titanium block...not as expensive as some on the market...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2345599037...+9ogSUoGgu3DG+DuLH4UyPKJ3g==|tkp:BFBM4u2_5L1h
 
I prefer the Tungsten sustain blocks that Floyd Rose sells. They are way heavier/more dense than brass.

A standard size Tungsten block weighs roughly the same as a big brass block of similar length. So you get the benefit of the increased mass without sacrificing “pull ups”.

If you want to fill that cavity they also offer a Tungsten big block.

Tungsten is pricey, but man they do something to an overdriven guitar tone that is gritty and aggressive.

https://www.floydrose.com/collections/upgrades/products/frotub?variant=29837596946
https://www.floydrose.com/collections/upgrades/products/frotufb?variant=29837597330
I have guitars with Titanium blocks and Tungsten blocks. As stated above use the block the guitar needs. I have Titanium Floyd bridges that I replaced the Titanium block on because the guitar needed to be fattened up. Then I have Titanium Floyd bridges with the original Titanium block on it bacause that is what the guitar needed.

As far as FU-Tone parts go… IME they are hit or miss. I got a Titanium nut years ago that did not conform to spec for an R3 nut. It was the right width, wrong height. I have had other FU-Tone parts that were off. I have had others that were fine. In all fairness Adam was absolutely great in dealing with the parts with issues so there isn’t much risk there IMO.
 
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