CrystalSky
Well-known member
No hearing is the right hearing lol
Last edited:
Which is the right attenuator
- Thread starter Jmack52
- Start date
PurityS.L.G
Well-known member
Too bad you can't get one right now
A lot more cash but built like a tank and does pretty much everything.
https://www.fryette.com/power-station-integrated-reactance-amplifier/
Bash_Man
Well-known member
I may be mistaken but looking up info on this product, it doesnt have the ability to load IRs so you can go from a Tube's amp direct into Front of House. No?
Bash_Man
Well-known member
Thank you.
Racerxrated
Well-known member
Someone here also had issues using the TAE with a Suhr SL68. If there's any issue with a possible impedance mismatch, that's a recipe for fried Transformers...no thanks.
Racerxrated
Well-known member
One option is, if you have a NMV amp and are going to try to boost it for more gain, you can use a simple distortion pedal in the last spot before the amps input...the volume on the pedal allows you to crank the amp to the sweet spot then turn down the pedal level or vol for attenuation. I just picked up a Joyo Uzi pedal (BE OD clone) and it works better than the Fryette PS I had...it literally turns my NMV 72 Marshall into an instant MV modded Marshall. Unity gain/volume on the pedal is 7-8..so lots of range to turn down to low vol playing.
But this only works if you are looking for more gain as well as attenuation.
But this only works if you are looking for more gain as well as attenuation.
Greazygeo
Well-known member
If you have the amp turned up to its sweet spot, but turning down the output of the pedal going to the input of the amp, the amp is not going to be driven hard…only that last distortion pedal’s input. In this scenario, if there isn’t volume blasting out of the speakers, the amp isn’t working hard, regardless where the amp volume is set.
With my Wizard alot of times I will run a patch cord between the fx loop send and return. This lets me turn up the preamp to it’s sweet spot then control the overall volume with the return level. This doesn’t push the power section harder at all. Using the Hotplate after the amp allows me to do that. Maybe that is what you were thinking?
This is a great way to do it. And if your amp doesn't have loop levels just pick up one of these.
https://www.jhspedals.info/little-black-amp-box
Racerxrated
Well-known member
I do mean a pedal.... Using a distortion pedal last right before the amp, does attenuate the signal Ala a MV. Believe me, the amps volume is set to a point where I get power tube compression. Then, when I kick on the Uzi pedal, If the volume on the pedal is at 7,8 the output is the same just adds gain like the pedal should. This is the unity gain/volume point. But, by lowering the volume knob on the pedal it attenuates the overall volume, down to very quiet levels. But, the amp still appears to be working just as hard since I can still tell the power tube compression is still there. There's always additional 'hair' when you get 34s cooking, and I still hear that while I lower the volume...it would be pretty easy to tell if the hair disappeared. This effect is what Wolf Hoffman was referring to in that Accept thread, where I quoted him....
Question: That's funny because my very next question was: the old Marshall plexi you used on the early albums (Breaker, Restless and Wild, Balls to the Wall) created a sound that was a lot more "heavy metal" than say the typical "hard rock" plexi sound of AC/DC or Jimmy Page. How did you achieve that more metal sound?
Wolf: Right. That again was born out of necessity. If you cranked the Marshall all the way to 10 or to 7 or 8, you could use the Distortion Plus' Output control to regulate the Marshall's volume so that you could bring it down to a volume you could actually play with. In essence you have a master volume effect — the amp is still sweating, but you can control the volume. The Distortion control was set not all the way up, but almost all the way up. You can still do it today. The only bad part is you get a lot of noise. We always had to turn down the volume immediately if there was a break. I say "we" — whoever the other guitarist was at the time would use the same set up. We always kind of did that as a team. That trained me real well, and I still do it to this day, but with the advent of hush units you don't need all that stuff.
This 45$ Joyo Uzi does the same thing, I'm still double boosting with the OD1X but adding the Uzi has allowed a super thick saturated tone at really low volumes.
dead-pan
Active member
TAE has been seemingly a problem for some but I ran most all of my amps through it and none exploded. Some sound better with it that others just as the OX and PS100 do.
Greazygeo
Well-known member
As soon as you turn the last pedal’s output down there is nothing driving the input of the amp….so the power section cannot be driven either.
If you don't need a load (b/c you're plugging into a cab), then any IR loader would do. Preferably something that takes speaker level with an XLR out (Cab M, NUX Solid Studio, Blubox, etc.).
And the low signal going in is usually compressed quite a bit too. Not a good combo.
Racerxrated
Well-known member
So then, is Wolf Hoffman wrong in his explanation of how he pushed his plexi? Because, how he explains it, is exactly how I'm doing it here. And, as far as 'extra compression' goes, it sounds no more compressed than a boosted 2203.
This way of 'attenuation' is only for those who look to add gain to a NMV Marshall, and to be able to play it at lower volumes. One would think that, when I turned the vol on the pedal down, that the gain would also lower. But it doesn't.
If my volumes are up high enough on the amp, isn't the power section still being pushed by the higher settings? I understand that if the pedal vol is lower, the pedal isn't pushing the amp additionally.
To be fair, never tried it with the power section wide open.
Which is what it sounds like you're doing.
Which is what it sounds like you're doing.
