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This is like a painter asking if all the colors and shades of paint have been achieved. It's infinite.

Last UK V30s are gone. Only Chinese ones left.

I have no lead on a Mesa cab for you. But having grown up in CT, please get yourself to Fuoco pizza, in Cheshire. Best I've ever had in my life.

x2 UK V30 sold

I remember reading a recent article about someone who bought... I think, a painting... from a private owner. I think it was the widow of husband who owned the painting. She was asking like $10,000 or something for it and was in a hurry to sell because she was cleaning out the estate. The buyer...

I fail to see how the seller is a scumbag. It's business. He has something that is scarce and there are people who want it and who are willing to pay for it. Don't like it? Don't buy it.

It's a combo amp similar to a Fender Twin, pretty good cleans. Very chimey.

$100 each OBO + shipping from 94107 Used V30 (Chinese, T3903A, 277 or 377?, 8 ohm) x2 SOLD: V30 (U.K., T3904, 444, 16 ohm) Used G12T-75 (Chinese, 8 ohm) x2 New-ish (45 minutes) G12M-65 Creamback (U.K., 8 ohm) x4

UPDATE Speakers arrived today and I installed 'em in an older REAR-loaded Bogner Uberkab. I got brand new, off-the-shelf, UK-made G12M-25. 16 ohms. Playing at low volume for now until I can bring my rig somewhere to crank it. But first impressions are that these are a million times better than...

Well there are no switches by the presence/NFB circuit. And the Tight switch is between the gain and master. So it's most likely either a coupling cap or cathode bypass cap. Neither are super secret mojo sauce "mods". As far which stage gets switched, if it's a coupler, I've had better results...

Where are the date stamps and are they actual dates or some sort of code? I have Winged C here and none of them have date codes as far as I can remember but I will look again.

Nobody knows exactly what the tight switch does at this point. But it could be any number of things, as already mentioned. Switching out a cathode bypass cap, or switching some sort of voltage divider, or high-pass filter, or whatever. Either way, I'm pretty sure it's super simple and easy to...

Winged =C= will be good if you can find them. By the time the factory shut down, all they were sending out were factory 2nds. So if you find "NOS" SEDs, there's no guarantee they will be great. RFT can be good, but somewhat on the round side in the lows. For modern production tubes, JJ E34L are...

I'd be down for a small PCB board mount that accepts both the Recom RAC20-12SK and/or the next one up, that puts out more current. The RACM30-12SK/277. Same length. Just wider/taller. So it could be possible to fit both on the same PCB. The 20W/1.67A model is fine for supplying 3 preamp tubes...

I suppose you could just use a breadboard too. Saving $40 on a single amp build doesn't seem like a make-or-break situation to me though...

Very cool! BTW, there's a PCB out there for that Recom supply. Mounts nice and clean. I just wish Recom offered one with 1.8A output. The next jump up is 2A and it's much larger.

My gf and her friends went to see Lady Gaga a week or two ago. And before they went, they were blasting her music non-stop for hours to get pumped up. And she and I are going to a show tonight and she's been listening to the artist's songs all day. And I realized that it seems kinda weird to me...

I don't mind an extra preamp tube hole as long as it's spaced like the originals. Many factory Marshalls came with a 4th hole already, but covered with a plate. So I don't see the big deal. These chassis were most likely manufactured so they could accommodate different circuits, like the trem model.