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Seems too bad if it's replaced by the SC56. Those look to have smaller frets than the 594. And $5k for a weight relieved guitar (the SC56) is insane. For $5k, you can't sort the wood for light weight?

Looks cool as hell.

What I don't get is how come none of the current Kramers have a headstock that actually looks like that?

Oh you're right; they didn't start 9-hole relief until '83 I think. I wasn't paying enough attention. Sorry.

looks great. Grain on both the body and neck looks really nice. Genuine question: why opt for a floating two point non-locking trem instead of a locking two point floating trem (Floyd). I've always felt the non-locker has all the downsides but none of the upside compared to a Floyd.

I think my recent 68RI is closer to 9 lbs. It's pretty light. But I have a M2M R8 that is right around 9.5 lbs. My two historic LPCs from the early 2000s are 10 to 10.5 lbs.

Some of what you're hearing there is the difference between 9-hole weight relief (your '80 LPC) and the modern weight relief (your '13 Standard). The modern relief is almost like a chambered guitar, and IME it does add a resonance that can be pretty cool and it is consistently a bit different...

Supposedly they are slightly curved. I've not had one, but I've heard from others that it more marketing gimmick than reality. At a minimum, the curve won't impact relief or leveling any more than fretboard radius would (which is to say: not at all).

10.5ish pounds is about my upper limit. After 30 minutes, I really start to feel that weight in my back. Luckily most LPs aren't going to be over that, though some are. Sound wise, I'm not sure it matters. My two favorite sounding LPs are the heaviest (57RI LPC and 68RI LPC both from the early...

I'd be careful with acetone. Naphtha should do the trick and is safe for whatever finish and plastic you'd run into.

Ditching the black headstock is definitely a good move. My remaining gripe is that I wish Fender would use taller frets.

This is the latest one that I've done.

I've used Fiebings Leather dye several times. I wipe the board with naphtha to remove as much oil and gunk as possible. Then apply the dye. Usually with a q tip but I've used a paint brush before to avoid binding. You want to avoid the binding, you have some time to wipe it off but if it...

This count? JMP master volume combo with the old blackback G12Ms

Pretty nice looking fake if it is one. Seems like a Gibson build to me but I'm not a FV expert.

Orvilles were veneers except for a very few Yamano orders with solid tops.

To me, the most usable "clean" boost (adds no color) is largely an EQ of some kind. The VFE Rocket or Standout. Empress Para EQ. Boss GE. Etc. You want to be able roll off some highs and lows, otherwise just straight clean boosting gets woofy and fizzy.

So I had it backwards: Terada used a G or J letter at the start of the serial number and Fuji-Gen used a serial number consisting of only numbers and no letters. The Terada G serial number letter basically stood for "Gibson pickups" and the Terada J serial number letter basically stood for...

If the serial number starts with a G, I think those were Fujigen and the serials that are just numbers were Terada. That might not exactly be a 57C because I thought those had fret-end binding, but especially the early Orville's didn't seem particularly standardized, so it might just be an off...

Fretboard is gorgeous. Looks great.