Interesting how close in your first clip the SLO and Wizard sound. Never owned a Wizard so I wouldn't know but maybe I'll like one now that I've heard that. The Ubershall is comically mid-scooped compared to the other two.
Sincerely, no, I'm not curious about modding a SLO. The whole point of modding IMHO is to take a run-o-the-mill, standard, common, dime-a-dozen, mass produced thing and make something really special out of it. Modding a SLO or a high-end supercar seems completely pointless to me since a SLO or a...
If you're rich enough, you don't mod it either, you just buy something else. You don't mod a Rolex or a Ferrari, you just buy an Aston Martin or a Patek if you want something else.
The general idea is to move the effect loop after the tone stack and channel volumes (only if you encounter problems with the loop, which is not a given), eventually add a depth pot and a switch for channel 2 gain bypass cap. Anything else would be foolish IMHO.
There are lots of used amps to...
Yeah I also think it's plenty tight but for some people who like robotic/sterile/solid-state/Randall-RG100/Crate-VH140C/Fryette-UL tight, it might not be tight enough. I can understand that. I personnaly prefer it the way it is.
It worked great. I had a local tech do that to my SLO when I bought it about 20 years ago. I didn't look closely but I think he just moved the FX send V3A cathode follower stage after the tone stack along with V4B FX return recovery stage. He also changed the FX send attenuator resistor because...
Here's a pic of my SLO post tone stack loop mod. Black lead with red end coming out of big crooked cap is loop send. Second black lead going to small resistor is loop return.
When Marshall puts out a "modified" amp, their mods are not legit and complex enough and lots of shit slinging ensue because anyone and their brother can do it in 5 minutes for 2 bucks. When Soldano adds a switch to bypass the bright cap or a depth pot, "a mod is a mod is a mod". LOL
I'd rather...
The Bass 400+ has 12 6L6 so it can only put out 12x25W=300W RMS. Maybe it can put out 500W peak on a good day for 1ms but that's not relevant. It sounds awesome in any case !
I love me some technical shred but that's really some of the most horrible un-musical shit I've heard in a long long time LOL
Really face-meltingly bad :eek:
I think you cannot use an out-of-nowhere bias value like that. You could do the method where you measure the center tap to plate resistance then the voltage drop and use the formula to know the mA value. Then you turn the bias pot until the mA value is right for 70% dissipation. It's very...
$500 for a full once-over by Mike B including some resoldering, chassis straightening and a set of new tubes doesn't seem over the top to me. It's nice to have a top-notch Mark IV ! Congrats !!