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When I've used the 2k Clear, I ended up wet sanding then polishing to get to a mirror gloss. I'd start with 600 or 800 ish grit and move to at least 2000 grit (all wet sanding; soak the paper a bit first too), then polish. Be careful not to burn through the clear on any edges etc.

I assume any of the bent steel saddles will be largely the same. I've had Raw Vintage saddles that were fine. If you use the trem, you might want more modern saddles like the block steel saddles or even the locking saddles from Gotoh or Wilkinson.

Medium. It definitely looks cooler slung down low, but my arms just do not reach the higher frets. Too high is uncomfortable imho. It shifts the guitar to the left and is fatiguing to have to reach up to the guitar.

The problem with a round radius is with really low action and bigger bends. The physics just won't allow too much of a bend before the string frets out against the higher frets. 12" is usually flat enough for me and I have really low action. But 9.5" definitely is not. Not sure if the PRS...

Could you trust the label? This is just wild to me. I think it'd stick to more reliable brands that at least claim to get tested.

Looks like the ESP Arming Adjuster. I have the ESP on a few guitars and it works well. I have it set so that I can use the Floyd fine tuner to moving from Standard to Drop D without any issues but I can still dive and pull up if wanted. It obviously won't flutter with any device like this. It...

I've had a few versions of the VC30 and love them. Cranked up, they get crunchy in the ball park of a master volume Marshall (ie, 2204) and just love an SD-1 to push it over the edge into an old school high gain. I tended to turn both the bass and treble controls rather low, to keep the tone...

Good move on the SD PAF. It will finally look right under a nickel cover.

Yeah. If you want a new Gibson USA, you need to be ok with very low frets. Otherwise look for a used one.

I've seen some shitty looking builds from that era (bridges off center; terrible looking rosewood, etc). The key benefit IMHO for guitars from that era is the Gibson at the time seems to have used Jescar 55090 frets. Gibson now uses super low frets that (for me) are nearly impossible to play...

I like really low action and to bend more than a step, so I really need a flat radius (generally about 12"). Even with really good fretwork, bends around one step will start fretting out once the action gets real low if the radius is less than that. I'm ok with a scale anywhere between 24.75...

Congrats! I like the OD take on the Blackmachine/RG vibe. I see the resemblance but definitely adds something unique and cool to take the design further.

Congrats! I also preferred the amp tones of the QC but really liked how the Kemper had very useful FX presets.

I have some fancier Japanese LP copies (Navigator and top line Tokai and Crews/Terada) and while their fit and finish is spectacular, I just prefer the sound of Gibson Historics. Something about them is just less clinical.

Yngwie. He's ridiculous and now rather repetitive but his early stuff is still mind blowing to me and he's a blast to see live because he's just so Yngwie.

But why no Bluetooth or WiFi to connect to Rig Manager? Seems crazy when I thought the cheaper Kempers have it.

I like black guitars with a bound body, but without binding they do just kinda disappear into a shapeless blob when you see someone playing them.

Hell of a top for a '96 Standard.

No Bluetooth or WiFi; seems like a huge miss. But I like the Kemper user interface and the powered rack/toaster format is perfect for us guys that go into a 4x12, so I'll wait for the new profiling tech this summer to see if I end up with one of these new ones.

I've had a '98 blueface and an '07 Silverface. both had a very strange feel that took getting used to. Very stiff. The '98 was super dark and flat unless you had it roaring, when it sounded pretty magnificent but kinda hard to use. The '07 was brighter and more aggressive but was very...