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I‘m like three boutique amps and two custom guitars away to achieve the perfect high gain tone

With a small drillpress, you probably can mange to get away by rotating the body in various direction, but once you work on something lika an explorer, it gets complicated. I hope the explanation of my easy solution was not to complicated. You are using acrylic glass as a base for your manual...

Another easier solution would be, to use two squared timbers just a tad higher than the guitar body and place them parallel to the body. Place a piece of wooden panel, or better acrylic glass with a hole on the squared timbers and use your manual press

You have to take into account the wideness of your guitar or bass body. Think of how far the drill has to reach out for all the work you want to do with it, without the guitarbody hitting the centerpost of the drillpress. As I wanted to remove material before routing the pickup cavity, I needed...

One common and easy way to drop bass in the preamp is to change the first coupling cap from 0.022uF to 0.0022uF. That would be my first guess.

I did like what I was hearing in the demo as well. Nothing polished about it, just raw Marshall tone.

I would suggest a cameron or larry thread

nice, reminds me of the attack of a 5150 together with mid fatness of a classic Recto

For what it`s worth, my old 2 channel Dual Rectifiers have PTs with that ringing as well. Some more, others less. A rackmount Recto had it excessively. Thightening the mounting screws of the PT cured some of the problem, but there`s still some self resonance of the bell covers that goes away...

Is it that in one case the PUs are mounted to the pickguard an in the other directely mounted into the wood. PUs react to every kind of vibrations, which might be stronger when mounted to the plastic pickguard

Just leaving this here: From the comments: The B string is the third in that triad shape, and a perfect 5:4 major third is 14 cents flat of a equal temperament major third.

Hi guys, need some help with my 2203 from 1981. Does this wiring fo the impeadance switch look ok to you? (see picture) The output jacks at one point were changed and the "polarity" of the OT was reversed = Brown/common to tip and ohm selector to sleeve. So I am changing that back to stock...

ok, thanks for your help. I will talk to my friend and tell him the situation. Maybe there`s a chance to source a new PCB through one of the MTS modders, but I don`t see a big chance for that. Cheers

Sadly, I don`t see any chance, getting a new PCB for this amp. The amp is not in production anymore and it was more of a niche product when it was. So finding a new PCB is like winning the lottery. Thinking of mechanical leverage, what you see in this picture is the topside of the PCB. So the...

ok, so I checked the transformer and it`s ok. Took me some time to get the specs for it, but the voltages are all in the right range. On thing I saw when removing the PCB was another blow under one of the powertube sockets. It happened between the heater and the trace leading to the control...

Take the Dimarzio MegaDrive into consideration. Not a lot of talk about this PU, but it`s very 80ies like. Not shure if it will work for Blues. Dimarzio does not have it on their site, but they still makes it. The PU was discontinued at one time, but enough people wanted it back. So Dimarzio...

ok, I will remove the whole PCB and make thorough inspection. Probably will remove the whole transformer as well in ths process and check it through Thanks

That was my first thought as well. Disconnecting the heater supply and measure voltages. Thanks

Here is the rest of the schematics

Hi guys, I need some help with a Randall RM50 and how to proceed with the problem. It look likes, the heater supply was "overloaded" causing tow 100R 1W resistors to blow. Have a look on the schematics and pictures I attached. The resistors are located at the bottom right of the schematic...