Anyone have a D-Tuna working PERFECTLY?

[deadweight]

I tried setting up my D-tuna with a tremol-no blocking the trem which wasnt the best and now spent a bunch of time properly blocking the trem and setting up the d-tuna just like it says in the insructions, problem is when its all done the standard tuning is fine but when i drop the E down to D the other strings go a little sharp. It sounds fine but not perfect, does anybody have one working flawlessly? if so do you have any little tricks or anything you used to get it working perfect?

 

[Stramm8]

Mine work like a charm. I suspect something is going on with your tremel-no if the other strings are going out of whack when you disengage it. My floyds rest directly on the body and I crank the springs pretty tight...

 

[Erock]

hmm, I just setup a friends guitar with the Tremol-no and D-Tuna, and it worked perfect as far as I could tell, as least according to my Strobostomp. With the Tremol-no in dive only mode, it shouldn't be possible for the strings to go sharp unless it isn't locked down correctly. That also applies if it's blocked correctly, as the trem shouldn't move at all. Are you using a genuine OFR?

 

[Doubleneck]

Tune the E-string to D at the headstock.

(Be sure to stretch new strings out fully before tuning.)

Lock the string at the nut. Fine tune the E-string to D with the bridge fine tuner.
Push the D-tuner in.

Fine tune to E with the set screw adjuster on the D-tuner.

And that’s all there is to it.

Once you’ve set the EVH D-tuna up correctly, you won’t have to fine tune it again.

 

[Guitar G]

I have D-Tuna's on 4 guitars and they work perfectly. I did recently buy an EVH Wolfgang new that was in need of a setup. The trem had the same problem that you described. I resolved it by making the trem sit flat/parallel to the body of the guitar. The problem was that the trem was higher on one of the studs versus the other. I leveled it and the trem stayed in tune when shifting the D-Tuna. I was shocked with the setup on the Wolfgang. It was so bad that I considered returning the guitar. However, as I calmed down, I decided to set it up properly (I do my own setups), it became a wonderful guitar that is worth every penny it costs.

Good Luck

 

[deadweight]

I have D-Tuna's on 4 guitars and they work perfectly. I did recently buy an EVH Wolfgang new that was in need of a setup. The trem had the same problem that you described. I resolved it by making the trem sit flat/parallel to the body of the guitar. The problem was that the trem was higher on one of the studs versus the other. I leveled it and the trem stayed in tune when shifting the D-Tuna. I was shocked with the setup on the Wolfgang. It was so bad that I considered returning the guitar. However, as I calmed down, I decided to set it up properly (I do my own setups), it became a wonderful guitar that is worth every penny it costs.

Good Luck

maybe one of my posts is higher that the other then. Ive done all that other stuff. if so, not by much though

 

[Greazygeo]

I have D-Tuna's on 4 guitars and they work perfectly. I did recently buy an EVH Wolfgang new that was in need of a setup. The trem had the same problem that you described. I resolved it by making the trem sit flat/parallel to the body of the guitar. The problem was that the trem was higher on one of the studs versus the other. I leveled it and the trem stayed in tune when shifting the D-Tuna. I was shocked with the setup on the Wolfgang. It was so bad that I considered returning the guitar. However, as I calmed down, I decided to set it up properly (I do my own setups), it became a wonderful guitar that is worth every penny it costs.

Good Luck

maybe one of my posts is higher that the other then. Ive done all that other stuff. if so, not by much though

your trem is not recessed is it?

 

[gkinsingapore]

I've had a D Tuna that I couldn't intonate to save myself before. No amount of tweaking by either myself or a guitar tech could save it.

No idea why it was that way, every other one I've had worked perfectly....

 

[H Golf Sport]

Some of the new ones you have to file down the inside of the Chrome piece or it snags and won't come back to E properly.
The Chrome plating is supposedly too thick and there are some circle casting marks inside where it rides on the bolt for the string clamp. I had to do this to the last 2 I installed on my guitars. My old peavey wolfgang's one worked great right out of the box but is slightly different and much older than the new ones.
If all your strings are going Sharp you need to tighten your trem springs or block it better. Sounds as if it is still slightly floating.
Hope this helps.
Aloha, Rob.

 

[charveldan]

I bought one, couldn't get it to work or stay in tune, i sent it back.

 

[Laura]

I had one and did not like it. I prefer just using the fine tuner to drop from E to D and I have no issues doing that with my floyd loaded guitars.

 

[deadweight]

My D tuna is black so the chrome thing isnt an issue. My floyd is recessed and i have tightened the springs quite a bit but i could try some more i guess, its fuckin frustrating though

 

[Greazygeo]

My D tuna is black so the chrome thing isnt an issue. My floyd is recessed and i have tightened the springs quite a bit but i could try some more i guess, its fuckin frustrating though

the D tuna is not designed to work with a recessed Floyd.

 

[TeleBlaster]

If your neck is really thin, and/or if your guitar sets up in standard tuning with very little tension on the truss rod, you will indeed see the whole guitar going sharp on the tuner, but the amount is very slight and unnoticeable in a live gig setting.
Tune in standard just a little flat, and use the fine tuning screw in the D-Tuna to keep the guitar in tune with itself from D drop to E .

I love the D-Tuna, but I have built the necks with graphite rods in the guitars I use them on.
Wolfgangs have graphite rods in the neck as well.
The added rigidity minimizes neck movement from the string tension change. You can see it on the tuner but again it is very slight.
HTH


edit: Oh, BTW, you can see the same thing happening if you manually crank down the string to D at the tuning machine. The problem is not really with the D-Tuna, but with neck reacting to string tension.

 

[rupe]

My D tuna is black so the chrome thing isnt an issue. My floyd is recessed and i have tightened the springs quite a bit but i could try some more i guess, its fuckin frustrating though

the D tuna is not designed to work with a recessed Floyd.

That shouldn't matter if it's properly blocked though, right? No upward trem movement is no trem upward movement whether its blocked or sitting flush against the guitar's top.

 

[TeleBlaster]

That shouldn't matter if it's properly blocked though, right? No upward trem movement is no trem upward movement whether its blocked or sitting flush against the guitar's top.

Correct.
The problem with some recessed Floyds is that the longer locking screw may not fit in the cut.
Also, "old school" instructions assumed that you were going to "deck" the base plate on the Floyd, and did not take in to consideration that you would install a block of wood in front of the sustain block, neither were tremel-no type devices available at the time when the D-Tuna came out.

 

[Greazygeo]

My D tuna is black so the chrome thing isnt an issue. My floyd is recessed and i have tightened the springs quite a bit but i could try some more i guess, its fuckin frustrating though

the D tuna is not designed to work with a recessed Floyd.

That shouldn't matter if it's properly blocked though, right? No upward trem movement is no trem upward movement whether its blocked or sitting flush against the guitar's top.

The tremolo can have no upward travel. It will not work that way.
Another issue is the longer length of the locking screw. It will overhang most all recessed cavities. Would cause some nasty damage!