Brand New Floyd Rose Only To Age it (Before and After)

  • Thread starter Thread starter scottosan
  • Start date Start date
Findthetone1":1pd7q686 said:
Nice job! What method did you use?
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Peroxide, distilled vinegar, salt mixture and 1500 grit on some parts. And it has to be nickel, not chrome
 
Badass dude!!! I'm really glad you posted this. I'm eventually going to get a Chubtone guitar and this is exactly the type of look I'm going to want on the bridge. I definitely am going to go with a rusty, beat-up guitar look so that would be perfect.
 
romanianreaper":1dydmrvn said:
Badass dude!!! I'm really glad you posted this. I'm eventually going to get a Chubtone guitar and this is exactly the type of look I'm going to want on the bridge. I definitely am going to go with a rusty, beat-up guitar look so that would be perfect.
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Floyd Rose sells a relic model, but it’s been out of stock for months due to COVID. My Rising Sun Chubtone has one aged like this.
 
It came out really good. I didn’t know they make a polished nickel bridge. I thought they were all chrome (outside of those special aged/tarnished ones).
 
psychodave":2etbj71r said:
It came out really good. I didn’t know they make a polished nickel bridge. I thought they were all chrome (outside of those special aged/tarnished ones).
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The FRT-400 is the model The FRT-900 is already relic‘d. I emailed them about the 900. The said about another month and they’ll be in stock
 
Ferric Chloride is a much easier method. And works in seconds. I use it a lot on new pickups for my aged guitars. It will age pole-pieces nicely in 5-10 seconds.
 
RedPlated":2l8ewx9r said:
Ferric Chloride is a much easier method. And works in seconds. I use it a lot on new pickups for my aged guitars. It will age pole-pieces nicely in 5-10 seconds.
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I’ve tried them all. I use that on small pieces like you said, poles and screws. If I am doing larger prices, I use this since it give me more control.
 
scottosan":6127zjhn said:
RedPlated":6127zjhn said:
Ferric Chloride is a much easier method. And works in seconds. I use it a lot on new pickups for my aged guitars. It will age pole-pieces nicely in 5-10 seconds.
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I’ve tried them all. I use that on small pieces like you said, poles and screws. If I am doing larger prices, I use this since it give me more control.
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Yes, it works really fast. Can go overboard real easy and end up with bare copper plated parts.
 
Stellar job, man. I'd never have guessed you'd intentionally done it had you not said so. :thumbsup:

Personally I wouldn't have the balls to even attempt this. :lol: :LOL:
 
Monkey Man":2r2dgs8u said:
Stellar job, man. I'd never have guessed you'd intentionally done it had you not said so. :thumbsup:

Personally I wouldn't have the balls to even attempt this. :lol: :LOL:
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Thats why I went slower and used the peroxide/conifer/salt mixture. It being expensive and not familiar with how thick the plating was. I started underneath. Instead of seconds like some of the acids, it took me several applications probably over an hour. I took it complete apart so it would be uniform. I’d use it it again since it’s hard to mess up
 
Yeah, that sounds more like my style, mate. Thanks.

I'd pictured the process as being a whole lot more aggressive.
 
I couldn’t get my camera to pick up the correct brass color. For whatever reason the camera makes the brass look yellow, but here’s most of the parts. Got the replica strap buttons, Jack plate, and bell toggle from frets on the net. For my a replica neck plate with no serial number from the birthplace of COVID. Pickups are Jalen Franky and PAF neck





 
I’m sure you have...BUT, if not, change out the neck screws and make sure they are the correct length. I wouldn’t trust the Chinese screws.
 
psychodave":2pfd81sl said:
I’m sure you have...BUT, if not, change out the neck screws and make sure they are the correct length. I wouldn’t trust the Chinese screws.
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I bought some calliham steel screws.

Dave,

Do you prefer brass or steel blocks on your Floyd’s. I’ve heard the stew is a little brighter, which I may like. Debating whether the new the steel block until I try it, but then I’d have to disassemble and reintonate if I want to change later
 
scottosan":2e0bdjj6 said:
psychodave":2e0bdjj6 said:
I’m sure you have...BUT, if not, change out the neck screws and make sure they are the correct length. I wouldn’t trust the Chinese screws.
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I bought some calliham steel screws.

Dave,

Do you prefer brass or steel blocks on your Floyd’s. I’ve heard the stew is a little brighter, which I may like. Debating whether the new the steel block until I try it, but then I’d have to disassemble and reintonate if I want to change later
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Good move on the steel screws.

It all depends on the guitar with regards to the trem blocks. I Lipton a brass block on my #1 guitar and was really happy with the results. I‘ve used brass on some guitars and hated it.

I hear ya about intonation. I’m a freak when it comes to intonation and I check it whenever I adjust the neck or string height.
 
Fucking badass! I've wanted to do this project for a very long time.

Did MJT make the body or are they just finishing it?

What are you doing for tuners?
 
GreatRedDragon":1io0mon1 said:
Fucking badass! I've wanted to do this project for a very long time.

Did MJT make the body or are they just finishing it?

What are you doing for tuners?
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KnE body. Schaller M6 Nickel. Unless I can find nickel gotohs. Ordering this week

Going for something like this, with less aging

 
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