Can someone explain floating trem versus others, etc.?

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romanianreaper

romanianreaper

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I'm looking into getting a Charvel Pro Mod and was wondering what differentiates the trem on that guitar versus "floating trems", ones that only dive bomb, etc., etc.? I've had locking trems over the years but barely did any string changes. I'm one of those people that leaves strings on for a long time as I've never had issues with sweating too much, etc.

I'm basically asking so I can understand how much of a pain in the ass it might be to keep it balanced, etc. Anyone have a San Dimas and can comment on this? I had a Warren DeMartini signature a few years ago but the body wasn't cut out to make room for the trem so I realized this Charvel might be different than what I'm used to.
 
I love floating 2 point vintage style trems with no locking nut. I have tried them all and i think that is the way to go. I have a suhr modern with a gotoh 2 point with vintage saddles and it just works. If you have to have a floyd the charvel pro mod that i had in the past only dive bombed. I think the new ones are recessed so you can go both ways. Changing strings is a pain in the ass if you take all of the strings off at the same time. I remove one string and tun it and stretch it and repeat. That way i do't have to spend all day balancing the tuning. The biggest hassle is having to deal with an allen wrench and all of the locking hardware on the floyd rose. I would also recommend nyxl strings. I have noticed more stability with my trem guitars.
 
I've got a San Dimas, MIM Pro Mod. I don't find it any more or less difficult to keep set up than my other FR bridges tha dive only. But I don't gig, or play/travel with it etc. not sure if that has anything to do with it staying set up or not....

Only diff for me is you can work the bridge sharp and flat (in pitch). Bends get tricky, you can pull it out of tune.
 
So it’s “floating” because the bridge is balanced by the string tension pulling one direction and the spring tension pulling the other way. If anything changes that balance, the tuning goes out of whack.

When playing: Mr. Downtown already mentioned string bending. Bending any one string detunes all the rest. You can get around it by bending all the notes together or pushing the bridge down with your picking hand to compensate. You’ll get a feel for it after a while.

The other issue of course is if you break a string or want to change tuning. Anything like that mid song is going to be a pretty big headache. No way around it.

For maintenance string changes: it’s not really a big deal. You just have it all set up (bridge plate level). Them shove a stack of Post-It notes behind the tremolo block and pull out one of your trem springs. Use just enough Post-It notes so that the trem is level. Now the bridge is essentially fixed. Change the strings, do whatever. Then tune up, lock it down, and put the missing spring back on, and pull out the Post-It notes. Then adjust the spring claw until you’re back in tune. Easy.
 
Thanks all! I'm always really torn about the whole trem thing and even owning one. I'll have G.A.S. for one and then I'll barely use the trem at all and go "why did I buy this again?". :) I think like most guitarists, I start looking around and craving something I don't need. I play at home and don't gig anymore and already have two guitars so definitely not something I need anyway.
 
I have to have a trem on all guitars, I guess I am product of the late 80s when I started to get into guitar. The only Les Paul I own is an Axcess. Anyway, a floating trem is sort of a pain in the ass. But once you get it right, its right. Then once you get the perfect guitar with the perfect Floyd, its always right. Unfortunately that isn't the easiest thing.

If you're not into subtle vibrato, I would go for a dive-only trem. I have several Wolfgangs that are setup like that it they are rock solid. I also have a Suhr set to dive only. These are much easier to deal with than floating bridges. But as someone said earlier, once you get a floating bridge working right, and you're not going to change tuning or string gauge, you are golden.

LOVE THE WHAMMY.
 
"Floyds" are very easy to set up, and maintain, don't let yourself be out-witted, or intimidated by a simple device. Get out your tools and figure it out.
 
Rayneman":2i8bnjme said:
I have to have a trem on all guitars, I guess I am product of the late 80s when I started to get into guitar. The only Les Paul I own is an Axcess. Anyway, a floating trem is sort of a pain in the ass. But once you get it right, its right. Then once you get the perfect guitar with the perfect Floyd, its always right. Unfortunately that isn't the easiest thing.

If you're not into subtle vibrato, I would go for a dive-only trem. I have several Wolfgangs that are setup like that it they are rock solid. I also have a Suhr set to dive only. These are much easier to deal with than floating bridges. But as someone said earlier, once you get a floating bridge working right, and you're not going to change tuning or string gauge, you are golden.

LOVE THE WHAMMY.

Yeah, I'm an 80s guy as well. Started playing in 85' listening to Ratt, Dokken, Jake E. Lee, etc. :) Seems like the only time I use the trem is when I'm playing along to Van Halen I. :) I do love Charvels though and can't see myself getting a hardtail. That is like getting a Ferrari or a Porsche and asking if it comes in an automatic.

Well, I have time to think about it. Getting an electronic drumkit first. Then I'll see. LOL!
 
Both my guitars have Floyds ,and I won't buy one without a floyd . My V has the trem blocked for dive only and my Kiesel has a tremol no installed and its usually set for dive only . I also have a mag lok installed to keep the other strings from going out of tune on a bend.I usually unlock the dive only during christmas cause some songs we play call for me to pull up on the trem.
The tremel no while not a perfect device can make string changes and detuning a breeze by locking the bridge in dive only mode . I use a detuna on my sixth string for drop D with no problems .
Like someone else said don't be intimidated by other peoples opinions. floyd is a grat tool to have whrn you need it .
 
romanianreaper":21gmlbk3 said:
I'm basically asking so I can understand how much of a pain in the ass it might be to keep it balanced, etc. Anyone have a San Dimas and can comment on this?
I have lots of San Dimas spec guitars, though I've never tried a Pro-Mod. Basically, the only time you need to 'balance' a floating trem is when you change string gauge, string brand (they all seem to have slightly different tensions) or tuning. If you stick to the same tuning, same brand and gauge, you shouldn't need to adjust anything.
 
Floating trems- it means the trem has room to be pushed down or pulled up. It's floating because its being held in place by string tension (example is an Ibanez JEM)

Dive only trems- there is wood preventing the trem from being pulled back. it can only dive down wards. (example is a Musicman Axis)

I'm in the camp of dive only. I like it because it makes changing strings easier. If you break a string while playing, the guitar stays in tune, vs a floating trem. Its also easier to setup

The charvel promods, I've had 10 of them. The USA and Jap models were dive only- there was no recess under the tremolo. The newer promods are floating trems.

I have a charvel star that has a floating trem and I installed a tremel-no and now it's blocked but lacks sustain.
 
I don't find them any harder to change strings because I always change one string at a time, even on my Les Paul. Always have so it's just habit. I never liked relieving all that tension on the neck every time I change strings although it's probably a non-issue.

I usually have a lot of springs in the back of mine so the other strings don't drop pitch as much when I bend. The equilibrium spring tension is the same (because the string tension is the same) but the change in spring tension is stiffer. But it won't flutter as well and doesn't feel as good.
 
romanianreaper":38tn6iri said:
Rayneman":38tn6iri said:
I have to have a trem on all guitars, I guess I am product of the late 80s when I started to get into guitar. The only Les Paul I own is an Axcess. Anyway, a floating trem is sort of a pain in the ass. But once you get it right, its right. Then once you get the perfect guitar with the perfect Floyd, its always right. Unfortunately that isn't the easiest thing.

If you're not into subtle vibrato, I would go for a dive-only trem. I have several Wolfgangs that are setup like that it they are rock solid. I also have a Suhr set to dive only. These are much easier to deal with than floating bridges. But as someone said earlier, once you get a floating bridge working right, and you're not going to change tuning or string gauge, you are golden.

LOVE THE WHAMMY.

Yeah, I'm an 80s guy as well. Started playing in 85' listening to Ratt, Dokken, Jake E. Lee, etc. :) Seems like the only time I use the trem is when I'm playing along to Van Halen I. :) I do love Charvels though and can't see myself getting a hardtail. That is like getting a Ferrari or a Porsche and asking if it comes in an automatic.

Well, I have time to think about it. Getting an electronic drumkit first. Then I'll see. LOL!
I have made tremelo stops out of any "L" bracket to make it to where my floating tremelo guitars tremelo can only be pushed down, and if no holes already I drill holes,install a small bolt that has no shoulder/all threads and get my guitar(s) setup how I like it then loosen/tighten the screw until it rests on the tremelo block,works great if you have your Floyd Rose style tremelo floating,but you can't do any pullups on bar,but I usually just work on them until you get the right balance,bridge baseplate level with the body as said above..they can be a pain in the ass but you just have to work with it until you find what works best for you and your needs..a lot of times though when i play my guitars that I installed my trem stops in I take them out pretty quick because I like the feel of the tremelo floating ! Its crazy !
 
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