Hagen running hot?

[Nick2027xl]

Hi all

Anyone got any experience running a hagen with a two notes captor 8?

I recently had the amp serviced after one of the tubes was red plating and it was obviously hot af.

I still feel the amp runs really hot. Is this just a characteristic of the hagen?

 

[Ventura]

Not particularly out of the ordinary - but a few things to bear in mind:
- are you running the amp at higher than usual MVs due to the attenuation offered by the TwoNotes unit?
- ventilation
- summer time temps / winter time temps
- did you buy the amp new?
- what are the tubes and are you aware of the bias set?

I run a VH4, Hagen and D-Moll - usually 2 simultaneously - into 2 separate TN CaptorX units - and have also ran them into cabinets prior to the CaptorX acquisition. Did the amps run hot? Ya, they give off heat... At room level jamming, they were warm; and at gig level MV at noon (which is fucking retardedly loud) they were hot-to-touch off the backplate.

When using the TN CaptorX 16, I run them where they sound good - around 10-10:30 on the MV, channels at 1-2 volume, they are warm, but nothing out of the ordinary given 2-6 hours per session. Make sure they're on standby when not in use for lengthier periods of play pause.

Peace
Unkle Mo

 

[Nick2027xl]

Not particularly out of the ordinary - but a few things to bear in mind:
- are you running the amp at higher than usual MVs due to the attenuation offered by the TwoNotes unit?
- ventilation
- summer time temps / winter time temps
- did you buy the amp new?
- what are the tubes and are you aware of the bias set?

I run a VH4, Hagen and D-Moll - usually 2 simultaneously - into 2 separate TN CaptorX units - and have also ran them into cabinets prior to the CaptorX acquisition. Did the amps run hot? Ya, they give off heat... At room level jamming, they were warm; and at gig level MV at noon (which is fucking retardedly loud) they were hot-to-touch off the backplate.

When using the TN CaptorX 16, I run them where they sound good - around 10-10:30 on the MV, channels at 1-2 volume, they are warm, but nothing out of the ordinary given 2-6 hours per session. Make sure they're on standby when not in use for lengthier periods of play pause.

Peace
Unkle Mo

Thanks for the detailed response. So I have a hagen and a dmoll I'm running the mv at about what you say 1030 and heat wise after 30 mins the backplate on both amps is warm enough that when I put my palm on it I think its going to be too hot to keep it there but then it isn't - hopefully that makes sense.

Dmoll valves are not new but hagen have less than 2hrs on them. Hagen has jj kt77s in it.

This may just be a diezel thing and I may be hyper aware of heat as I had 2 amps with red plating valves in one week (hagen and engl invader 2) both of which were nuclear temperature as a result. Hagen was fully serviced by a very reliable tech when it had the valves replaced.

 

[Ventura]

Thanks for the detailed response. So I have a hagen and a dmoll I'm running the mv at about what you say 1030 and heat wise after 30 mins the backplate on both amps is warm enough that when I put my palm on it I think its going to be too hot to keep it there but then it isn't - hopefully that makes sense.

Dmoll valves are not new but hagen have less than 2hrs on them. Hagen has jj kt77s in it.

This may just be a diezel thing and I may be hyper aware of heat as I had 2 amps with red plating valves in one week (hagen and engl invader 2) both of which were nuclear temperature as a result. Hagen was fully serviced by a very reliable tech when it had the valves replaced.

mine are hot to touch, but not too hot to touch - very very warm. I can see how you'd be uber cautious and maybe even a little paranoid after all the crap you've gone through, can't blame ya. but in my exprience with these amps - they throw heat. a fair bit of heat indeed - more than my XTC or Shiva for that matter - same volumes, same sessions times.

it is concerning - but I can't remove that "concern" after all the first hand fuckery you've experienced - just stay on it - and be mindful - and eventually you'll see they're running as (hopefully) they should be.

but ya, all my Diezels throw more heat off the back than my other amps - now that I've actually taken note of such. They're hot running amps.

 

[Flintstonerocks]

Just an FYI......I have a D-Moll, VH2, and a Herbert.
I once asked Mr. Diezel if I can run any of his amps with an Attenuator like a Weber Mass 200. He said he would not recommend it......so I never did.

 

[Nick2027xl]

mine are hot to touch, but not too hot to touch - very very warm. I can see how you'd be uber cautious and maybe even a little paranoid after all the crap you've gone through, can't blame ya. but in my exprience with these amps - they throw heat. a fair bit of heat indeed - more than my XTC or Shiva for that matter - same volumes, same sessions times.

it is concerning - but I can't remove that "concern" after all the first hand fuckery you've experienced - just stay on it - and be mindful - and eventually you'll see they're running as (hopefully) they should be.

but ya, all my Diezels throw more heat off the back than my other amps - now that I've actually taken note of such. They're hot running amps.

Thanks again, that does make me feel a bit more at ease, sounds like it's a diezel thing then as my engl and dual rec anywhere near as hot. They aren't anywhere near as loud

 

[Nick2027xl]

Just an FYI......I have a D-Moll, VH2, and a Herbert.
I once asked Mr. Diezel if I can run any of his amps with an Attenuator like a Weber Mass 200. He said he would not recommend it......so I never did.

Yeah I get that, I think that's a standard response from builders though. I appreciate why though

 

[Ventura]

Just an FYI......I have a D-Moll, VH2, and a Herbert.
I once asked Mr. Diezel if I can run any of his amps with an Attenuator like a Weber Mass 200. He said he would not recommend it......so I never did.

Absolutely, this is because advocating the use of any thing other than what the amp is intended for means it *could* fall outside of standard operational parameters. If shit goes south, who's to blame? The amp manufacturer who's got an amazing reputation to uphold(?), or the company making the attenuator who've got an amazing reputation to uphold(?)

Earlier - years ago - deadbricks, soundsoaks, loads, etc weren't NEARLY as capable as they are today, but there are still a lot of dodgy ones out there too. All it takes is a couple bad wires and boom - your $5000 German made amp is fuct (or at least its OT is). Less can go wrong with a cab - it's a simple box with speakers - 4ohm, 8ohm, and 16ohm. Pretty standard fare.

That said - practically every studio in the world houses DI reactive/load boxes nowadays, and all those studios see all manner of amps come through them. But as per the manufacturer, it's black and white - these amps are designed to power cabs - anything else is not their problem and they don't want it to be their problem, nor do they want problems to arise that then lead back to somehow make them look bad.

/end