How Do These Solder Joints Look To You?

[dfrattaroli]

I rewired my Uberkab for 4 ohms. I didn't want to run it at 16 ohms with the Mark V:25 even though it's a safe mismatch. I may go back if I feel like trying it. Nonetheless I wanted to get opinions. In truth, they look shinier in person than in the pics.

Lastly, I was surprised at the quality of the stock solder joints. I bought this cab new and in my opinion, the joints were all dull. I expected better. It had Sound Runner 10g line in it. I used Sound Runner 12g because I think it's easier to heat and get good joints. I have 14g Sound Runner as well but I opted for the thicker line. Honestly, I think anything over 14g is overkill.

 

[russoloco]

At a bare minimum the wire should be looping through the hole of the terminal prior to being soldered. Those joints don't look too hot either.

 

[bbaug14]

I disagree. There is no reason technical or otherwise to loop through the hole. If that's your preference that's fine, but it makes absolutely no difference from an electrical connection stand point.

Those connections look alright. Not the prettiest but shouldn't be a problem electrically or physically. If you're worried about them, just wiggle the wires a bit and make sire there's no movement or cold solder joints.

 

[anomaly]

As long as they are study and hold who the hell cares...

 

[dfrattaroli]

Thanks. I know you don't need to loop through the hole. Bogner didn't do it so neither did I. Plus, there's no way you're getting 10 or 12g wire through those tiny holes. The connection is rock solid on all of them. I wasn't worried about that.

I'm not sure where the brownish stuff is coming from though. I'm using good solder. What is it otherwise that doesn't look right? Thanks for the advice and critiques guys.

Dave

 

[bbaug14]

Flux.

 

[spliffsperlunk]

 

[dfrattaroli]

Flux.

Should I clean it off? Or not worry about it?

Thanks.

 

[Stumplegriltskin]

I've always used these, clamp the wire in, done. Can solder it too, if you're a freak like me. That brown shit is flux, as mentioned.
Flux is basically a weak acid that removes oxides so that solder can adhere to the attaching surface. Sometimes it's made from pine tree sap.

Wiggle them lightly with your hand. If they don't move, chances are, you're good.

Also, get yourself a good soldering station like this if you're going to solder all the time. Best damn thing I ever bought.

 

[bbaug14]

No need to clean the flux. Its there for a reason, which is to create solid solder joints.

I never use clips. Those can come loose. If you solder them that's another story, but by themselves I don't trust them.

 

[dfrattaroli]

I've always used these, clamp the wire in, done. Can solder it too, if you're a freak like me. That brown shit is flux, as mentioned.
Flux is basically a weak acid that removes oxides so that solder can adhere to the attaching surface. Sometimes it's made from pine tree sap.

Wiggle them lightly with your hand. If they don't move, chances are, you're good.

Also, get yourself a good soldering station like this if you're going to solder all the time. Best damn thing I ever bought.

I do have those quick connects. I got mine from MCM Electronics in .205 width so they'll fit a speaker tab properly. I also have a Weller WS51 Solder station. Although for this cab, I used a 40W Ungar with a wide chisel tip because as I said, it had 10g wire. The Ungar melts existing solder very quickly.

I should dig out the old cable that came out of the cab just to show you how dull and gray the original solder was.

Thanks again everybody.

Dave

 

[MississippiMetal]

Uhh no that's a halfass solder job if I ever saw one. The leads tack-soldered like that are neither ideal for conductivity nor mechanical integrity. Solder seals the joint. It shouldn't be used as a welding agent.

What they should have done was tin the leads, thread them through the hole, wrap them over and give then a good tight crimp with the pliers, then solder. They could have also wrapped the tinned leads around the terminal without threading through the hole as long as the end result was a nicely crimped, tight wrap, then solder. That's best practice when the leads are too large to fit in the hole.

 

[TrueTone500]

I don't like an excess of bare lead exposed that far from the terminals, but whatever... If it's been soldered with RoHS lead-free, I'd clip the ends, and re-solder with 63/37 Kester solder.

 

[petee]

They're fine, if there not loose, don't worry about it.

 

[dfrattaroli]

They're fine, if there not loose, don't worry about it.

They're rock solid and shiny which I always thought was what you wanted. You can't loop anything but 18 or 22g wire through those holes anyway. Ohms read correctly at 3.7 or so and I have continuity everywhere. Thanks for commenting.

Dave

 

[FourT6and2]

Looks fine. If you're using no-clean solder, like Kester, then don't clean the flux off. If it's corrosive solder, then you need to clean the flux.

Whens soldering a joint, you want to still be able to see the striation of the wire strands, which in this case you can. So looks fine.

And yeah, no way anybody is getting speaker cable through the thru-holes on speaker tabs. I've never seen a cab wired that way. Especially Bogner. They're always just laid down on top of the tab like you have it. Pain in the ass, but that's the only way. So again, looks fine.

 

[MississippiMetal]

It depends on the speaker. I've been seeing more and more newer speakers with terminals that will take larger gauge wire. I must reiterate that a mechanical connection is ideal. Wrapping the leads around the terminals in the case that they won't fit through the hole. If you're going to just tack solder it, you might As well omit soldering altogether and use spade connectors.

 

[dfrattaroli]

It depends on the speaker. I've been seeing more and more newer speakers with terminals that will take larger gauge wire. I must reiterate that a mechanical connection is ideal. Wrapping the leads around the terminals in the case that they won't fit through the hole.

That would make sense but these are your run of the mill V30/T75s so no go there. I have to try the wrap but I imagine with 12g line, you're going to end up with a huge knot of wire. Plus, how would you tin that? My wire was tinned through and through as were the tabs. So I only had to fix the wires in place and heat the solder which happened very very quickly. I still haven't put the back of the cab back on because I'm trying to decide if I want to re-do it with quick connects and 14g wire. But the more I look at them, the more I feel they're fine. Again, the soldering that I found in the cab was really bad. Dull, gray and the wire was just kind of mashed onto the tab. At the very least, I know this is better than it was. And, they're really rock solid.

I appreciate all the info for sure though.

Thanks.
Dave

 

[petee]

It depends on the speaker. I've been seeing more and more newer speakers with terminals that will take larger gauge wire. I must reiterate that a mechanical connection is ideal. Wrapping the leads around the terminals in the case that they won't fit through the hole.

That would make sense but these are your run of the mill V30/T75s so no go there. I have to try the wrap but I imagine with 12g line, you're going to end up with a huge knot of wire. Plus, how would you tin that? My wire was tinned through and through as were the tabs. So I only had to fix the wires in place and heat the solder which happened very very quickly. I still haven't put the back of the cab back on because I'm trying to decide if I want to re-do it with quick connects and 14g wire. But the more I look at them, the more I feel they're fine. Again, the soldering that I found in the cab was really bad. Dull, gray and the wire was just kind of mashed onto the tab. At the very least, I know this is better than it was. And, they're really rock solid.

I appreciate all the info for sure though.

Thanks.
Dave

In my opinion, soldering is a better connection, better continuity. Done properly, you will not have any issues. The problem with stake-on connections, they can loosen up or corrode. Not likely to happen, but more likely then soldering. Since they're already soldered, I'd just leave it.

 

[TrueTone500]

If you're soldering face-down (which you should), be sure to protect the rear of the cone with a bib. This will prevent any hot solder from dripping onto the cone. Be sure to also clip an aluminum heat-sink to the copper junction wires that connect the terminals to the cone.