RockStarNick
Active member
So after a lengthy planning stage, I finally got around to installing a patch-bay into the frame of my Pedaltrain 2. Based on the recommendation of some experts here, I kept the jacks 100% isolated from the metal frame. I used (4) metal Switchcraft jacks for Guitar out, FX send, FX return, and TRS footswitch out. For the plate, I used a Hammond 1290A mini-pedal box lid only, and drilled 4 holes for the jacks.
The result? A super rugged, super convenient, space saving patchbay built into the frame of my Pedaltrain 2. I didn't have to waste precious real estate on the top of the board with a patch bay. And I can save wear and tear on the jacks of my pedals, cuz I only have to unplug at one place. And, it makes setup and teardown lightning fast. Best of all, it's dead quiet, with no grounding issues or cross-talk.
Here's some pictures of the process:
1. The first thing I did was carefully mark out where the plate would go, and drill some holes for the mounting screws, and 4 marker holes for the corner of the cutout.
2. I had to keep in mind that while the front of the PT2 is about 3 inches or so, I didn't have that much room to work with. There is a reinforcement beam running the entire length of the front panel, about 3/4" down.
3. Then I cut the hole with a dremel, and some hand files to finish it. Though it looks simple, I'm not metalworker, and this process took a long, long time. I had to make sure the hole was large enough that the sides of the jacks would not touch ANY metal on the inside of the frame.
4. Then I carefully cut and files out the holes for the jacks. I'm using (2) flanged fiber washers per jack, to insulate them from the metal plate, and frame.
5. This is the only "hack job" part of the whole job. The thru holes for the cables are some nylon push-in hole covers, with a hole routed in the center. This acts as a stress relief for the cable, so it doesnt touch the metal edge of the frame. I superglued them in place for extra stability, and the super glue dried white. Booooo.
6. Then I wired each cable up the it's respective jack on the plate, and then attached the jacks to the plates. Again, very carefully, making sure that no contacts were touching on the jacks. The 1290A plate is pretty tight, so I had to be very precise in the spacing.
7. I had to shimmy the plate and jacks back into the PT2 frame, carefully, making sure again, that there was no metal-on-metal action with the jacks and frame. Used some 1/5" bolts to attach it.
8. Here's the end result. I made a "snake" out of 4 cables. Canare GS6 and some Neutrik ends, with some velcro ties every foot or so. Color coded of course.
9. And here's the finished pedalboard. Axess BS2 Buffer, Korg Pitchblack, BBE Wah, Custom made Bogner 2 button footswitch, rehoused EVH Phaser, rehoused Boss CE2 Chorus, OCD V4, BYOC Trem, and in the loop, a Boss DD20 in the loop.
In the end, I love the results, but it was a huge headache. Lots of hours put in.
I wouldn't really recommend it to anyone unless they're willing to put in a LOT of house hand-filing and fitting everything in place.
Still, I'm very pleased with the results, and most importantly, the tone. There is ZERO tone loss, and ZERO added noise. It's quiet as a mouse.
- Nick
The result? A super rugged, super convenient, space saving patchbay built into the frame of my Pedaltrain 2. I didn't have to waste precious real estate on the top of the board with a patch bay. And I can save wear and tear on the jacks of my pedals, cuz I only have to unplug at one place. And, it makes setup and teardown lightning fast. Best of all, it's dead quiet, with no grounding issues or cross-talk.
Here's some pictures of the process:
1. The first thing I did was carefully mark out where the plate would go, and drill some holes for the mounting screws, and 4 marker holes for the corner of the cutout.
2. I had to keep in mind that while the front of the PT2 is about 3 inches or so, I didn't have that much room to work with. There is a reinforcement beam running the entire length of the front panel, about 3/4" down.
3. Then I cut the hole with a dremel, and some hand files to finish it. Though it looks simple, I'm not metalworker, and this process took a long, long time. I had to make sure the hole was large enough that the sides of the jacks would not touch ANY metal on the inside of the frame.
4. Then I carefully cut and files out the holes for the jacks. I'm using (2) flanged fiber washers per jack, to insulate them from the metal plate, and frame.
5. This is the only "hack job" part of the whole job. The thru holes for the cables are some nylon push-in hole covers, with a hole routed in the center. This acts as a stress relief for the cable, so it doesnt touch the metal edge of the frame. I superglued them in place for extra stability, and the super glue dried white. Booooo.
6. Then I wired each cable up the it's respective jack on the plate, and then attached the jacks to the plates. Again, very carefully, making sure that no contacts were touching on the jacks. The 1290A plate is pretty tight, so I had to be very precise in the spacing.
7. I had to shimmy the plate and jacks back into the PT2 frame, carefully, making sure again, that there was no metal-on-metal action with the jacks and frame. Used some 1/5" bolts to attach it.
8. Here's the end result. I made a "snake" out of 4 cables. Canare GS6 and some Neutrik ends, with some velcro ties every foot or so. Color coded of course.
9. And here's the finished pedalboard. Axess BS2 Buffer, Korg Pitchblack, BBE Wah, Custom made Bogner 2 button footswitch, rehoused EVH Phaser, rehoused Boss CE2 Chorus, OCD V4, BYOC Trem, and in the loop, a Boss DD20 in the loop.
In the end, I love the results, but it was a huge headache. Lots of hours put in.
I wouldn't really recommend it to anyone unless they're willing to put in a LOT of house hand-filing and fitting everything in place.
Still, I'm very pleased with the results, and most importantly, the tone. There is ZERO tone loss, and ZERO added noise. It's quiet as a mouse.
- Nick
