JMP to SLP head shell conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter RedPlated
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RedPlated

RedPlated

Well-known member
I’m not a big fan of the JMP head shell. I do like my 1980 2203 though. So I ordered up a Sourmash SLP head shell. Took about 2-3 weeks and is amazing quality. All I had to is drill the chassis mounting holes.

Looks much better now. Wish I could swap the plastic rocker switches for metal type too. That may come later.

Before (older pic):

wgex310l.jpg


After:

95Uex9Bl.jpg
 
Looks cool, and what’s most important, you like it. Enjoy!
 
looks good.. I like the JMP headshell with the small logo
 
I have a question, how do you mark the holes to be drilled and get them right ? Do you put the chassis on the underside of the headshell, get it in position and drill from the outside ?
 
I like them all....but I prefer period correct. Nevertheless, it looks very cool...congrats. The original is in great shape..if you decide to sell someone will gladly pick it up.
 
PAULYC2":b8draub4 said:
I have a question, how do you mark the holes to be drilled and get them right ? Do you put the chassis on the underside of the headshell, get it in position and drill from the outside ?
Some builders will pre drill the holes for you...I had a Jubilee combo upside down in a smallbox hs from a guy on ebay...I got it in raw form and finished it off myself. It was my regular gig amp, always used a 4x12..easier with a head.
 
PAULYC2":7s2bthen said:
I have a question, how do you mark the holes to be drilled and get them right ? Do you put the chassis on the underside of the headshell, get it in position and drill from the outside ?

If you're doing a clone build, it's easier to line everything up before you have the trannies in the chassis, making it pretty heavy. But if the chassis is complete, you just have to slide it into the headshell, make everything look tight and lined up from the front and then use a punch to mark the holes, then drill.
 
To mark the holes, I mocked up the chassis in the shell, removed the front baffle and marked through the chassis holes with a screw. Drilled small holes down from inside out and then opened the holes up to 3/8” from the outside in. Makes very accurate holes.

I used a 90 degree drill attachment to drill from inside out.
 
Use a spring-loaded punch. Then use a flexible drill extension and go slowly.
 
Did you have to drill the Marshall logo holes? Where did you source the logo? Feel free to PM if needed. I need a new logo and head shell for mine as well and have been looking at Stone Age. I hadn’t heard of sour mash before.
 
glpg80":ke7qlbgt said:
Did you have to drill the Marshall logo holes? Where did you source the logo? Feel free to PM if needed. I need a new logo and head shell for mine as well and have been looking at Stone Age. I hadn’t heard of sour mash before.

For that you buy the logo, press it into a piece of cardboard, then remove it, tape the cardboard to the front of the headshell and use the spring-loaded punch to mark the front of the headshell through the holes in the cardboard.
 
Yes but where to buy said logo? Everywhere I look they’re either out of stock or no longer selling for obvious reasons lol
 
New head shell looks nice, but I prefer the original look.
 
Both look really nice, my choice would be based on what type of gig you are playing. Lol.
 
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