Marshall 6100 30th Annv. PSA/NAD

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Dallas Marlow

Dallas Marlow

Active member
Hey all,

So I got an amp for back up to my DAR, I've got an olddd school marshall clone but it can't do high gain to save it's life. I picked up a decent deal on a nearly mint Marshall 6100LM 30th Anniversary from 97, which is one of it's last years of production.

First off I've got to say that this amp is really great for the marshall sounds, and being a previous owner of a DSL, I really am incredibly surprised Marshall went over to the DSL/TSL line instead of keeping this amp, to me the sounds out of this thing absolutely DESTROY both of those amps, especially the TSL(never liked that amp) the DSL had some good sounds but I never felt I could get a great sound on both channels with the share eq. Not to mention you couldn't switch between clean/crunch.

I honestly can't believe how much gain this thing has on tap, and the options are really impressive, it's like Marshall took a few steps backwards after this amp, it's got a damping switch, two effects loops series or parallel, 3 separate EQ's, pentode triode and low and high power modes. It's also got a variety of options on the front, but those are some really neat features to have, not to mention it's midi (which I hate... but it's still there).

Here's my big PSA - while I got a great deal on a nearly mint 14 year old amp, damn if fedex didn't rough up the thing a bit, every time it got bumped or moved around at all, or was loud enough to vibrate it, it would make a pop like a static discharge. Of course first I looked for tubes, and any loose connections, turned out the lights and checked for arcing, but thankfully none of those were the issue, after about 15 minutes I traced the problem down to the power resistor (no this amp doesn't use a choke more on that later)... Long story short, the thing was basically just sitting in the board, the solder connections has simply snapped, I have no idea how or why, but nothing else was remotely loose.

This is where the fun starts, this amp is an absolute motherfucker to repair, check out these shots... http://www.timeelect.com/mar30.htm - it has SO many boards, and unfortunately the issue I had was on the main power board. I tried my best to get solder to flow down from the top of the board, but there was absolutely no way, not enough room to even get the soldering iron in. I realized I had no choice but to pull the board, let me say right here, I know from previous experience I HATE tube socket retainers with a passion, the whole screw system when it's under a board is a nightmare beyond comprehension to thread those things when you don't have access to them... so I considered desoldering all the connections on the power tube sockets, but at 2a.m. last night, whoever had serviced it previously hot glued all the connectors into place so I had the pleasure of slowly taking all of that out too.. (I spent a couple hours on it late at night dealing with it) I decided it was best to sleep on it. Come this morning, I decide to suck it up and deal with the socket retainer nightmare, and dismantled all of the connections, labeled everything and pulled the main board. Fixing the resistor in place took literally 15 seconds, the repair is a piece of cake and the part wasn't even bad tested right at 100.5ohms for a 100ohm value, close enough for me. It took me forever to get the the damn board back into place, and the majority of the time was spent dealing with those SUCK ASS screws and nuts that you have no access to, and getting the board to drop back in properly. Fortunately the only thing I kind of dicked up a little bit was just a fuse failure led, it's fine but just a little loose because it kind of didn't line up perfectly when the board was put back in.

For the good news, after I reconnected everything, twisted the heater wires, tried to line them up a bit better at a 90 degree crossing to other lines, the amp works perfectly, no noise, no popping, and impressively quite for a marshall with this much gain. That being said, I really do not want to ship it anywhere... ever haha.

As for the resistor vs. choke, I really considered ordering a choke for this thing, and I know some people have done it, but after opening it up and looking inside the amp, 1 I have no idea where the hell I would mount it at this point, I don't really know if putting it by the transformers, or running the lines has any negative impacts on the amp, there is SO little free space in this amp! 2, with all the odd options and features on this amp, I don't know if some how the damping, or any of those type switches would still function properly had I changed the filtering to a choke rather than the 100ohm 5w ceramic resistor. From what I understand the purpose of a choke is to help filter the amp from noise, but now that it's soldered into place, decent pre amp tubes, and a wire movement, honestly it's impressively quite, even with single coils and the t.v. on.

What are your guys thoughts on changing a resistor out for a choke, hell if I'm ever opening this fucker up, but for future reference? I really have no desire to change this amp tonally or feel wise, both are great, it could be a little tighter but coming from my DAR, everything seems super loose now anyways haha...

Wow that's a wall of text. Try and upload some pics soon.

Dallas
 
had one of these (combo version) and couldnt sell it fast enough. YMMV. I have heard the combo's have problems - mostly over-heating. The heads apparently do not suffer this malaise. Sorry, Im not more helpful.
 
Did ya change the caps on the midi board while you were in there?! :D

Nah.. I wouldnt change the choke, I'd just rock the amp.. they do sound great!
 
had one of these (combo version) and couldnt sell it fast enough. YMMV. I have heard the combo's have problems - mostly over-heating. The heads apparently do not suffer this malaise. Sorry, Im not more helpful.

Yea man I mean the heads built pretty solid, theres nothing on it I can complain about to much other than the pots look like a mofo to change out. It's got Dagnall trannies in it, did you not like the way the combo sounded or was it just because of reliability?

Did ya change the caps on the midi board while you were in there?!

Nah.. I wouldnt change the choke, I'd just rock the amp.. they do sound great!

I didn't change the caps on the midi board, but that looks like it's a hell of a lot easier to yank out of there than the main board lol, thankfully. Honestly I don't have a problem dealing with connectors and desoldering, but I can NOT handle tube socket retainers with this design, I know its good that they aren't built into the board and are ceramic, but man.. just hate the way those screws are designed!
 
glip22":3lj1o1ao said:
That Marshall clone you have is better than allot of Marshals. :lol: :LOL: Put one of these in front and you will be happy. http://www.bearfootfx.com Dyna Red

Haha it's a great amp man, especially with the Pre phase MV, it just doesn't do the really higher gain stuff you know? But yea it's an amazing amp and I really like it with 6550s a LOT. I can't see getting rid of it, oh and by the way you know those damn tube socket retainers that are on the Colonial, EXACT same ones on the 6100, only thing is the 6100's are hidden by a PCB..., wait till you try and take off the tube retainers and you'll hate them as much as I do haha.
 
I used to play one of those in the later 90's. It was a fun amp. Not my favorite Marshall amp but I would take it over any Marshall made since. The only mod I would want to do no one would be to convert the bass boost switch to a variable resonance control. I was always trying to find a balance between having it on and running the channel bass lower than usual.
 
skoora":1omapnom said:
I used to play one of those in the later 90's. It was a fun amp. Not my favorite Marshall amp but I would take it over any Marshall made since. The only mod I would want to do no one would be to convert the bass boost switch to a variable resonance control. I was always trying to find a balance between having it on and running the channel bass lower than usual.

What bass boost do you mean? The damping switch?
 
Dallas Marlow":1g7nsq9c said:
skoora":1g7nsq9c said:
I used to play one of those in the later 90's. It was a fun amp. Not my favorite Marshall amp but I would take it over any Marshall made since. The only mod I would want to do no one would be to convert the bass boost switch to a variable resonance control. I was always trying to find a balance between having it on and running the channel bass lower than usual.

What bass boost do you mean? The damping switch?

No, it's a small black button on the front, towards the left. I believe it might have been a low volume compensation switch or something like that. Gives a pretty nice bass boost. At the time I was playing in drop C and wanted more bass so I would press it in and lower the bass on the lead channel to even it out. I never got quite enough bass with the bass knob, by itself, on 10. I always left the damping switch on auto I think. It's been a few years since then so I'm not all that sure about that last bit.
 
skoora":22w5qhot said:
Dallas Marlow":22w5qhot said:
skoora":22w5qhot said:
I used to play one of those in the later 90's. It was a fun amp. Not my favorite Marshall amp but I would take it over any Marshall made since. The only mod I would want to do no one would be to convert the bass boost switch to a variable resonance control. I was always trying to find a balance between having it on and running the channel bass lower than usual.

What bass boost do you mean? The damping switch?

No, it's a small black button on the front, towards the left. I believe it might have been a low volume compensation switch or something like that. Gives a pretty nice bass boost. At the time I was playing in drop C and wanted more bass so I would press it in and lower the bass on the lead channel to even it out. I never got quite enough bass with the bass knob, by itself, on 10. I always left the damping switch on auto I think. It's been a few years since then so I'm not all that sure about that last bit.

Man I'm have a COMPLETELY different scenario lol, the compensation button makes it sound better at lower volumes or thats the idea anyways, it takes away some of the fuzz and pumps up the low end a bit. I keep turning my bass lower on on all the channels except the crunch, the rest are less than noon, did you have the 6100LM or the Original, the LM's lead channel has been voiced for more gain and is different, also the LM runs 6L6's instead of EL34's, I've got low end for days, actually been running a rocket fuel on a pretty transparent setting just to tighten up the low end haha.
 
I used to have a Marshall 6101LE combo with EL34's and the LM mod done later. There are a number of versions of the 6100, between the limited edition, EL34 versus 5881, purple tolex versus black, and LM versus non-LM.

The combos seem to have the most reliability problems from reading the reviews, usually the midi goes. My 6101LE combo did run very hot, as did the DSL401 combo I had before. I will not be buying a Marshall combo any time soon, I just don't think the Marshall combos do a good job with the heat (glad the Class 5 is out as a head).

Anyway, when reading reviews, it seemed the EL34's were preferred to the 5881's and the LM mod was about 50/50. On mine I didn't think the stock EV speaker was a great match for the amp, but I did try it through some cabs with V30's and G12T-75's as I remember (its been a while). I loved Channel 1, 2a, and 2b. I didn't care much for channel 2c or channel3, both were buzzy and prone to feedback. I wished they had made the channel 2 modes footswitchable.

If you do anything I would look into changing to EL34's in the power section. I do really want one of those Dyna red pedals that was mentioned before, they look great.

I replaced my 6101LE with a Marshall 2553 silver jubilee haven't been Marshall shopping since.
 
Hey Blackba,

The EL34 mod isn't to hard but I would have to pull the board again to change the screen grid resistors and I think maybe a few other values, but honestly based on my luck with EL34's as of late I'm going to stick to the 5881/6L6 variety of tubes.

I also dig the amount of low end this thing gets with the 6L6's it's a lot but I'm always one of those people that prefers to take it away rather than add it back later.
 
Dallas Marlow":2ag4zzik said:
skoora":2ag4zzik said:
Dallas Marlow":2ag4zzik said:
skoora":2ag4zzik said:
I used to play one of those in the later 90's. It was a fun amp. Not my favorite Marshall amp but I would take it over any Marshall made since. The only mod I would want to do no one would be to convert the bass boost switch to a variable resonance control. I was always trying to find a balance between having it on and running the channel bass lower than usual.

What bass boost do you mean? The damping switch?

No, it's a small black button on the front, towards the left. I believe it might have been a low volume compensation switch or something like that. Gives a pretty nice bass boost. At the time I was playing in drop C and wanted more bass so I would press it in and lower the bass on the lead channel to even it out. I never got quite enough bass with the bass knob, by itself, on 10. I always left the damping switch on auto I think. It's been a few years since then so I'm not all that sure about that last bit.

Man I'm have a COMPLETELY different scenario lol, the compensation button makes it sound better at lower volumes or thats the idea anyways, it takes away some of the fuzz and pumps up the low end a bit. I keep turning my bass lower on on all the channels except the crunch, the rest are less than noon, did you have the 6100LM or the Original, the LM's lead channel has been voiced for more gain and is different, also the LM runs 6L6's instead of EL34's, I've got low end for days, actually been running a rocket fuel on a pretty transparent setting just to tighten up the low end haha.

The one I had was a black tolex, LM w 34's. I found one a little while ago at my local GC and was stoked to play one again but of course, it didn't work :lol: :LOL:
 
The one I had was a black tolex, LM w 34's. I found one a little while ago at my local GC and was stoked to play one again but of course, it didn't work

That figures my old GC had a mesa tremoverb I always wanted to pick up, was there for ages, but constantly had issues and they never really got it fixed, then one day it was sent out for repair and never came back... seems like people always pawn off the broken shit on GC's idiot salesmen lol.
 
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