Off Topic: Adjusting Wheel Camber

[Mark Skid]

I need to remove 1.5 degrees of negative camber from my rear wheels. To do this, I need to replace the control arm bushings, which I get... but, why do I have to "load" the suspension before tightening the bushing bolts? Is this just for the front wheel control arms, or both?

 

[ibzprestige]

It's true for any suspension component. When you have no load on them your suspension is at different angles than when on the ground loaded with vehicle weight.

 

[Mark Skid]

It's true for any suspension component. When you have no load on them your suspension is at different angles than when on the ground loaded with vehicle weight.

So, how do I know when I have enough "load" on the wheel(s)? Do I just toss a jack under the spindle, and jack it up? If yes, how far? How do I know when enough is enough?

 

[ibzprestige]

So, how do I know when I have enough "load" on the wheel(s)? Do I just toss a jack under the spindle, and jack it up? If yes, how far? How do I know when enough is enough?

If you can get to the bolts with the vehicle all the way on the ground, that would be the most proper way. Other wise, yes just measure the tire to fender gap on the ground and then Jack it up as close as possible on the spindle or the control arm itself using a Jack.

 

[Mark Skid]

If you can get to the bolts with the vehicle all the way on the ground, that would be the most proper way. Other wise, yes just measure the tire to fender gap on the ground and then Jack it up as close as possible on the spindle or the control arm itself using a Jack.

Thanks. Thing is, the bushings are in a fixed position, so I don't see how they could move when vehicle's weight is applied? I've watched a couple of videos on YT, but I don't see where they are loading the rear of the vehicle. Maybe they are doing it incorrectly?

 

[cardinal]

I thought the idea was that rubber bushings are stressed and eventually might tear if torqued down in the unloaded position, because when loaded the bushing wants to rotate (relative to where it was unloaded), but can't. I think urethane bushings are greased up and can rotate, so you just torque those down however you want.

But I've been out of it for a while and might be misremembering something.

 

[ibzprestige]

Thanks. Thing is, the bushings are in a fixed position, so I don't see how they could move when vehicle's weight is applied? I've watched a couple of videos on YT, but I don't see where they are loading the rear of the vehicle. Maybe they are doing it incorrectly?

Hard to explain in words, but unloaded and torqued you're stressing the bushing since it was tightened in the suspensions max range of travel.

 

[Mark Skid]

Hard to explain in words, but unloaded and torqued you're stressing the bushing since it was tightened in the suspensions max range of travel.

Okay, I get it. The bushing then must experience some pivoting where they connect. I was thinking that if I place a camber gauge on the brake rotor, then lift the spindle to the proper camber level and tighten, that would do it. What do you think?

 

[Mark Skid]

I thought the idea was that rubber bushings are stressed and eventually might tear if torqued down in the unloaded position, because when loaded the bushing wants to rotate (relative to where it was unloaded), but can't. I think urethane bushings are greased up and can rotate, so you just torque those down however you want.

But I've been out of it for a while and might be misremembering something.

I don't think the rubber bushing are greased, so you may be right. I do know that the bushing is housed in a metal sleeve, but I don't think it moves. I need to do more research on the parts that are available.

 

[ibzprestige]

Okay, I get it. The bushing then must experience some pivoting where they connect. I was thinking that if I place a camber gauge on the brake rotor, then lift the spindle to the proper camber level and tighten, that would do it. What do you think?

Yes exactly. And urethane bushings same process applies, all they are offering is more durability, they won't tear but will be/can be noisy if you don't load them.

Im assuming you're installing adjustable arms? I would torque them and then adjust the camber.

 

[Mark Skid]

Yes exactly. And urethane bushings same process applies, all they are offering is more durability, they won't tear but will be/can be noisy if you don't load them.

Im assuming you're installing adjustable arms? I would torque them and then adjust the camber.

I'm not going to touch the front-end, as the camber about 1.5 negative. The back is between 2.5 and 3 degree negative. MOPAR dropped the height in the factory, but did not adjust the camber. They said... "It's within spec." I could leave it as-is, but I personally don't care for the look it it. I measured the camber on seven Challenger's yesterday, and none of them were more than 1.5 degrees negative. I came-up behind a guy in a white 2018 R/T and followed him until I could ask him if I could measure his camber? His was 2.5+, just like mine. He purchased it used, so I'll assume the former owner dropped the back-end.

 

[Mark Skid]

I just called Stellantis to get an opinion from corporate. Waiting for a response...