Pickup installation question.......

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mailman1971
  • Start date Start date
moltenmetalburn":q7omioqi said:
killertone":q7omioqi said:
Mailman1971":q7omioqi said:
So looks like just a couple of solder points then.
I remember it wasnt too hard when I did it as a teen.
;)

Not like I can blow anything up doing it.... :lol: :LOL:
worse case I remember was a bad buzzing when I had some wires crossed.

I am pretty sure when I had my Solution that the wiring color code was the same as Duncan's. That would be: red and white solder together (tape them back since they dont get soldered to anything), green and shield (bare) go together then to ground, black is the hot and goes to the pot's first leg. :thumbsup:


I Just double checked my newer ( three months old) MCPS and yes the green is north start and black and shield go to ground. I suspect you had one of the older solutions before Wade made the change.

Danno you should ask Jeff about the Afwayu's wiring something tells me hell know which is which on his pickup.
Will drop him a line. Thanks for the heads up! :thumbsup:
 
How do you know what side is up? Just got a holydiver set in the mail a few hours ago. Either I have them wired/installed wrong, or they sound like shit :confused:
 
vultures":314yjhw3 said:
Are you gonna sell the 81/85? I'd be interested :D
You will have 1st dibs if that happens.
I been glued to the EMG's so long...... :confused:
Hope its as cool as what I heard yesterday... :thumbsup:
I think it will be.

My EMG's I have the 18 volt mod as well. :rock:
 
droptrd":372wzyhu said:
How do you know what side is up? Just got a holydiver set in the mail a few hours ago. Either I have them wired/installed wrong, or they sound like shit :confused:
never mind, Im a dee dee dee
 
Mailman1971":3nzg5k1z said:
My EMG's I have the 18 volt mod as well. :rock:

schwing.jpg


Definitely let me know if you decide to sell em :)
 
Your EMG's did not have a bridge ground, make sure your MC does ;)
 
Cool....thanks for the tips.
I am picking up a Soldering iron tommorrow.
Should have the pickup in a few days.
I should have it installed properly in about 6 months.... :lol: :LOL:

Nah....shouldnt be that long. I used to do all my guitar work about 20 years back.
Just like bike riding I would hope........ ;)
 
All this pickup installation talk has me wanting to share this information I found a while back by Helmuth Lemme on how to make a very cool tone device to shape the sound of your pickups. He wrote a German book on guitar electronics.

I figured just making it an easy to follow project would be cool.

buying new pickups is not the least expensive way to get a different sound out of your pickup.

changing the external load is. this replaces a standard tone control OR after experimenting one favorite value could be chosen. You can also leave one cap out so that position is your original pickup sound.

Change the external load of the pickup by using a rotary switch and capacitors to add different amounts of capacitance across the pickup. This shifts the resonant peak of the pickup around which is responsible for the bulk of a pickups voicing. many of you Im sure have heard heard of the varitone which is similar.

The resonant peak is the frequency that has the highest output level. Practically no magnetic pickup has a flat frequency response and it's the frequency peaks & valley's that give pickups their individual "character".



All quotes by Helmuth E. W. Lemme


"This method is inexpensive but can be very effective. With only a little expense for electronic components, the sound can be shaped within wide limits. Standard tone controls lower the resonant frequency by connecting a capacitor in parallel with the pickup (usually through a variable resistor to give some control over how much the capacitor affects the pickup). This will give you much more sound variation than a standard tone control."

Changing the frequency response with
different external capacitors parallel to a pickup coil





To backtrack a little and explain more about the resonant peak of a pickup:



The fundamental frequency response of a magnetic pickup.
Position and height of the peak vary from type to type




If you know the resonant frequency and height of the resonant peak, you know about 90 percent of a pickup's transfer characteristics; these two parameters are the key to the "secret" of a pickup's sound (some other effects cannot be described using this model, but their influence is less important).

What all this means is that overtones in the range around the resonant frequency are amplified, overtones above the resonant frequency are progressively reduced, and the fundamental vibration and the overtones far below the resonant frequency are reproduced without alteration.


How Resonance Affects Sound

The resonant frequency of most available pickups in combination with normal guitar cables lies between 2,000 and 5,000 Hz. This is the range where the human ear has its highest sensitivity. A quick subjective correlation of frequency to sound is that at 2,000 Hz the sound is warm and mellow, at 3,000 Hz brilliant or present, at 4,000 Hz piercing, and at 5,000 Hz or more brittle and thin. The sound also depends on the height of the peak, of course. A high peak produces a powerful, characteristic sound; a low peak produces a weaker sound, especially with solid body guitars that have no acoustic body resonance. The height of the peak of most available pickups ranges between 1 and 4 (0 to 12 dB), it is dependent on the magnetic material in the coil, on the external resistive load , and on the metal case (without casing it is higher; many guitarists prefer this).

The resonant frequency depends on both the inductance L (with most available pickups, between 1 and 10 Henries) and the capacitance C. C is the sum of the winding capacitance of the coil (usually about 80 - 200 pF) and the cable capacitance (about 300 - 1,000 pF). Since different guitar cables have different amounts of capacitance, it is clear that using different guitar cables with an unbuffered pickup will change the resonant frequency and hence the overall sound.

So all of the science aside there are only a few parts you'll need:

A rotary switch:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=023-666

2 pole 6 position. shorting so it makes contact before breaking to avoid popping sounds. you only wind up using half of the lugs on the bottom.

Dano from Beavis Audio research made a diagram of the switch and how it works. the A or red side will be used and the B or green left unused.



Dano from Beavis Audio Research made a diagram to explain the rotary capacitor selector. In the diagram where the two wires enter the circuit board you would wire one wire to each side of the output jack so the capacitors are placed across the signal to ground.





The smallest lowest voltage caps are best for obvious size reasons. the the recommended range is 470 pF to 10 nF. that range is 30 capacitor values from 470pf to 10nf so a good starting point would be every five values which would loosely be as follows:


Capacitors:

470pf = .00047mF

800pf = .0008mF

1.8nf = .0018mF

3nf = .003mF

5.6nf = .0056mF

10nf= .01mF

Ive sourced these which are approximate values to make it easy for you :

470pf, 820pf, .0018mf, .0033mf, .0056mf, :

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=162

.01mf:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=888



you could even go so far as to choose cap type for each setting. for instance the higher peak settings could be paper in oil to sweeten the highs and the lower resonant settings could be metal film for clear bass. have fun searching for values though.

The grand total is about $4.90 plus shipping! Have fun hacking up your guitar at your own risk!

:thumbsup:
 
Man.....awesome info here!! :rock:
I remember before just diving in with a soldering iron when I was in my teens and not sweating it. Need to get that kick in the ass again. I should get the pickup by next week.
Then its rock n roll time!! :thumbsup:
 
Klark":6nzkxmae said:
moltenmetalburn":6nzkxmae said:
one of these days ill try wiring directly to the jack for the purest pickup tone.
You can do that with a switch, which is what Neil Young does, and what I believe Suhr's 'blower switch' is all about.

I am doing the exact same thing with my Musikraft build except bridge/neck humbuckers with 3 way switch, Middle position will be Off.
Hopefully anyways..
 
Got a Motorcity Afwayu which is similar from the review I read.
Hope it sounds good in that Jackson!! :yes:
 
moltenmetalburn":3ulwsf3a said:
stephen sawall":3ulwsf3a said:
The Hammer pots have a much better tapper. With most pots the volume comes on strong right away. With the Hammer pots it is a lot smoother.


Link? Never heard of them.

i do like the taper of the CTS I have been using from Guitar electronics:

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/produc ... r-Pot.html

I always saw the CTS as the best of what is easy to find.....

I was looking for the link, if I find it I well post it here for everyone.
..... Nigel was talking about it early on giant Ann thread. As soon as he said it I remembered how great the taper was on my Hammer in the 90's. It is great for people like me who ride the volume a lot. Most volumes controls come on very strong right away and do not change much as you raise the volume. The Hammer is much smoother.

The one in my LP is shot .... so I well need top find this information for myself soon.
 
Back
Top