Prototyping/Cloning of the Dirty Fingers. Everything you never wanted to know

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scottosan

scottosan

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Video comparison at the bottom.

Okay. Gonna nerd out, but I think it’s important to understand what goes into a pickup. A lot of people think it’s just wires around a magnet and similar spec pickups should sound similar, but there’s a reason there’s so many flavors of pickups on the market. Coming up with a new model is actually easier than trying to copy a pickup.

I was getting a little frustrated that I could not get as chunky of a feel of my Psykes compared to the original Dirty Fingers. I was really tying to keep similar specs but decided to just wind how I felt it needed to be wound and to mess the the magnet placement and different metal spacers to fine tune, since my magnets that flank the main magnet are also a little more narrow than the originals.

Aside from the magnet, It’s amount of winds/inductance that determine the output of a pickup. The DC resistance is not a reliable indicator unless it’s the same gauge, magnet, and construction and materials. The thing with inductance though is that the ferrous material in the vicinity of the coil also affect the inductance/output. A bobbin with the slugs removed has a much lower inductance than a bobbin with slugs installed, so the metal spacers, screws, slugs, all affect that. The original DF has a single .19 spacer. I had to use 2 spacers. , the magnetic gauss presented at the screw and slug heads (near the strings) varies based on the composition of those materials. Since it is cost prohibitive for any custom fabrication for steel spacers, I spent much time with testing out existing spacers of varying carbon content from what’s available on the market as well as the screw composition to get me in the ball park for inductance, and gauss at screw and slug tops.

After all of that, I got as close as I could from a constructions standpoint. I was still a short on the inductance reading per the published specs. But again, you can go by DC resistance alone. Per spec, the older pickups were around 16k. Likely back in the day, the wire gauges were somewhere in between 43 and 44awg. Using more consistent wire now days, I decided to add more winds to get a closer inductance. Instead of the 7000 winds per original, I went with 7150 son that I could get the inductance to match.

The original measures 7.1h. The one I have now, is 6.9h. Mine measures 17k. The original 16k. So, since the original still has a higher inductance. As I suspected, the wire used for the original likely was between 43awg and 44awg and that’s why the lower resistance.

Additionally, the amount of turns of the bobbin before you fill 1 layer left to right (TPL) affects to tone. The higher the number, the brighter and tighter and lower the warmer and looser. I have to factor all of this in.

Anyway, this is absolutely as close as I’m going to get matching a machine wound pickup by hand. But, I’m excited and it was a great learning and validation experience.

Recorded loud enough for the unpotted Dirty Fingers to squeal



Added 10/29




Shortened and levels adjusted

 
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It's prolly impossible to match the wire tension when cloning a pickup.

But that's definitely a factor in the tone.

Sounds like you nailed it !
 
I think it sounds damn close if not exact....................NICE JOB there Scottosan....................:2thumbsup:

I can't believe Gibson didn't pot a 16K pickup that's crazy.....I had old unpotted Dimarzio Super Distortions and they were almost unusable at playing volumes................
 
Cool stuff Scott, I swear I have learned more about pickups from you in the past year than I ever thought possible.
 
It's prolly impossible to match the wire tension when cloning a pickup.

But that's definitely a factor in the tone.

Sounds like you nailed it !
Honestly, I think it somewhat forgiving. Unless it’s super loose or super tight, it’s not as big of an influence as the (TPL) turns per layer. In my case I use wisker discs to keep the tention uniform and much of the tension comes from that and I use felt pads to loosely guide. They go on top of the spool and as it unwinds, there’s always tension. I didn’t use these a few months ago and they are a game changer for consistency. I also use a metronome when winding and have a timing and pattern for each pickup. My pickups are much more consistent now.
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Don't make me post YT clips of the HUMAN CENTIPEDE movie..............................................:shocked:
When that movie came out, I was dating this chick who chose that movie to watch one night. I couldn't do it. I was like fuck this.
 
Very nice, thanks for giving real info about how the pickup works, what goes into making them, rather than just marketing bs about magic fairy dust.
 
Sounds damn close and excellent explanation of a pickup build. Looking forward to trying one of these out.
 
I can't wait to hear it in my..........................(wait for it)..............."studio".......I've wanted to say that forever-and now I can....lol...
 
I can't wait to hear it in my..........................(wait for it)..............."studio".......I've wanted to say that forever-and now I can....lol...
This is all your fault. When you bought that Sykes Greco, it put me on a Sykes kick and I thought it would turn into an easy project. 2 magnet orders from the UK, 3 orders for difference spacers, and a spool of 44 awg wire and / bunch of trashed bobbins later, not to mention spacer/magnet placement tweaking and here we are, LoL
 
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