
Scumback Speakers
Well-known member
IME, threaded machine screws on back panels, while a good idea in theory, leave a lot to be desired if they screw up. Brad brought me a used Cameron cab to install speakers into a couple months back. There were no less than 5 stripped back panel bolts, and four speaker bolts. Because these cabs use non standard 2.25" long phillister head screws, you aren't going to find them easily unless you're a cab maker. Hell, even I had to dig for some to work. What should have been a straightforward 10 minute install turned into a 1.5 hour repair/restoration, then I got to install the speakers. When I saw the wiring harness inside the cab, it was wired goofy as well. So two hours later, with four 10/32 speaker bolts, 5 10/32 phillister head back panel screws, 9 replacement T-nuts, 8 feet of 14 gauge wire, and a new jack the cab worked fine again.
Needless to say, the 10/32 screws didn't work out too well on the back panel of this one!
I use 1.5" long #8 wood screws to hold the back panels of my cabs on, with flange washers that don't cut the tolex. If one of them strips, at least it's just an easy out, or a drill to cut off the head in about 30-45 seconds.
When you have to drill out a stainless steel 10/32 machine or phillister head screw, though, that takes a bunch more time and effort.
As for the 5/8" vs 3/4" plywood build...5/8" sounds more lively/vintage correct for tone, 3/4 sounds less lively/stiff, probably good for numetal/death metal, etc. Back in the day, though, most everyone was using Marshall styled cabs with 5/8" thick baltic birch...for all styles of music. I've never had an issue with too much sound from the backs of the speakers escaping to confuse the tone up front, so I'm trying to figure out what Capulin Overdrive is hearing...but he has me cornfused, that's for sure! I'd lean towards leaky/cracked plastic handles, a ported cab design, or something but I'm figuring he has a solid cab, so I have no idea what he's hearing.
And as for John @ Stone Age, he and I see eye to eye on almost everything cab design related...except he likes the small handles on his cabs and I prefer the larger ones.
Needless to say, the 10/32 screws didn't work out too well on the back panel of this one!
I use 1.5" long #8 wood screws to hold the back panels of my cabs on, with flange washers that don't cut the tolex. If one of them strips, at least it's just an easy out, or a drill to cut off the head in about 30-45 seconds.
When you have to drill out a stainless steel 10/32 machine or phillister head screw, though, that takes a bunch more time and effort.
As for the 5/8" vs 3/4" plywood build...5/8" sounds more lively/vintage correct for tone, 3/4 sounds less lively/stiff, probably good for numetal/death metal, etc. Back in the day, though, most everyone was using Marshall styled cabs with 5/8" thick baltic birch...for all styles of music. I've never had an issue with too much sound from the backs of the speakers escaping to confuse the tone up front, so I'm trying to figure out what Capulin Overdrive is hearing...but he has me cornfused, that's for sure! I'd lean towards leaky/cracked plastic handles, a ported cab design, or something but I'm figuring he has a solid cab, so I have no idea what he's hearing.
And as for John @ Stone Age, he and I see eye to eye on almost everything cab design related...except he likes the small handles on his cabs and I prefer the larger ones.