Tell me about Warmoth necks , what will I like?

[Kapo_Polenton]

Love the N4 neck, wasn't a huge fan of how the charvel san dimas MIJ 2010 I had felt. So will I like their pro series neck with this "fat back" as they call it? Essentially I am looking for rosewood board and jumbo frets. I emailed them a few weeks back and they were helpful with letting me know how to measure out the neck, just unsure as how to spec something close to what I like. If I can explain it, it seems to me the N4 necks are flatter, a bit wider as well compared to what I remember the Charvel having. So essentially anyone who has experience with N4's, charvel, and warmoth, school me.I don't need exact, but close enough to feel. I found everything on a charvel space wise between frets to be less and I enjoyed having more room for leads on the wider neck. I also enjoy the feeling of USA gibson V necks which seem to be more roomie then say a les paul type of fretboard. What is a good place to start when combing through their inventory of ready to go necks?

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Just to update, my research shows most N4 necks being anywhere between 12 and 14 radius. That's a good start and I imagine relatively flat by the section on the warmoth page. Input welcome though.. still interested in thickness and nut width.

 

[Anonymous]

Well the compound radius is really nice, best of both worlds. It's just a bitch to work on if you're doing fret work
I like 1 11/16 myself, which is the standard width most guitars have

 

[stratotone]

When you call Warmoth to place your order, just tell them what you like and they will help you figure out what is close. Last neck I bought from them was a gibson scale conversion neck for my tele - I like big necks, so I got a '59 boatneck profile, stainless frets, and compound radius. Oiled the neck, installed it on the guitar and played a gig the next day. I'm impressed with Warmoth stuff.

 

[Drew]

I'm really picky about neck size and shape--well, the pain in my elbow is anyway... After I found a neck shape I could get along with, I bought a caliper like this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Calip ... 3&xsr=1365 and measured the width and more importantly, the thickness at the first fret and 12th fret of necks I liked. Once I knew what I had, I was able to order a neck that was pretty much exactly what I was used to.

The caliper is also handy for measuring fret height and width.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

What about neck finishing? Not sure i want to dick around with finishing. I'm thinking satin is fairly common across the board.

 

[Anonymous]

What about neck finishing? Not sure i want to dick around with finishing. I'm thinking satin is fairly common across the board.

If I can do it, you can too
You'll save a great deal of money by doing that yourself
Your best bet is probably Tru Oil, which is "illegal" in Canada (because of solvent base), but you can easily buy some on eBay

 

[RockStarNick]

I've played an N4, and i know what you're talking about when you say "flat".

The N4 shape is like a D shaped back. Most of Warmoths offerings are C shaped.

I will say that for a middle of the road, beefy but not baseball bat, the 59 Roundback is very comfortable.

 

[shgshg]

The original "Davies" N4 was 1 11/16" at the nut; modern USA N4s are 1 5/8". 0.81" thickness at the 1st fret tapering to 0.90" at the heel; 14" fretboard radius, 22 Dunlop 6105 frets.

The closest you'd get with Warmoth is a Warmoth Pro neck with a Standard thin back shape, Warmoth 6100 frets, and pay for a custom uniform radius. Nut whichever you prefer.

Warmoth's fret numbers don't match Dunlop specs, so if you order Warmoth 6105 frets they won't feel anything like the Dunlop 6105's on the N4. By dimensions the Warmoth 6100 is closest.

 

[snowdog]

I like big necks, so I got a '59 boatneck profile.

The '59 and Boatneck are two different contours.

 

[snowdog]

What about neck finishing? Not sure i want to dick around with finishing. I'm thinking satin is fairly common across the board.

I'd skip the satin finish, it is still too sticky for me. I eventually sanded/scraped it all off. They spray in on the frets too (or they used to) if you are talking maple fingerboard. That is also a pain to get off.

I saw on their forum that a few people had used Watco Danish Oil and liked it so I got some and used it on mine, great stuff impossible to mess up. Feels unfinished.

 

[Death by Uberschall]

I run with two of Warmoth's profiles. I like the '59 roundback for my chunkier guitars and the Wolfgang profile for my shredders.

 

[bulletproof_funk]

What about neck finishing? Not sure i want to dick around with finishing. I'm thinking satin is fairly common across the board.

I'd skip the satin finish, it is still too sticky for me. I eventually sanded/scraped it all off. They spray in on the frets too (or they used to) if you are talking maple fingerboard. That is also a pain to get off.

I saw on their forum that a few people had used Watco Danish Oil and liked it so I got some and used it on mine, great stuff impossible to mess up. Feels unfinished.

I was reading on another forum about a Warmoth canary neck with ebony board, neither wood requires finishing so they'll give you that raw wood feel. The extra cost of the more "exotic" wood will offset the cost of a finish on maple, they should be similar in the end.

 

[Death by Uberschall]

What about neck finishing? Not sure i want to dick around with finishing. I'm thinking satin is fairly common across the board.

I'd skip the satin finish, it is still too sticky for me. I eventually sanded/scraped it all off. They spray in on the frets too (or they used to) if you are talking maple fingerboard. That is also a pain to get off.

I saw on their forum that a few people had used Watco Danish Oil and liked it so I got some and used it on mine, great stuff impossible to mess up. Feels unfinished.

I was reading on another forum about a Warmoth canary neck with ebony board, neither wood requires finishing so they'll give you that raw wood feel. The extra cost of the more "exotic" wood will offset the cost of a finish on maple, they should be similar in the end.

I have a Warmoth raw (unfinished) canary neck with an ebony board and Wolfgang profile. It's the guitar that get the most play time of all my guitars. Simply awesome.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Thanks for the info guys.. what are the downfalls of not finishing the neck? i am assuming that only the back of the neck gets finished is this correct? the price also jumps considerably when you add finishing... if i am at a 380$ neck before shipping i might as well save more and go with a mim charvel and sell the body i was going to use this with!

 

[bulletproof_funk]

Warmoth claims less stability and possible warping over time so they strongly recommend finishes on maple, mahogany, and some other woods. They have a chart of woods on their site where they tell you which ones they use for necks/fretboards and which "require" finishes.

Here is said chart of neck woods:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx

One other thing to note if you get a finished fretboard: they don't cover the frets prior to applying the finish, and they don't remove the dried excess for you either. It'll be either DIY or hire a tech/luthier.

 

[projectx102]

This axe has a Warmoth Pro CBS style with a beauty of a rosewood fretboard,1-11/16" Tusq nut, standard thin profile and 6150 frets finished in satin nitro. It has been an unbelievable feeling and playing neck right out of the box. No nut or fret work was needed. It's my second neck from them that came perfect.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info guys.. what are the downfalls of not finishing the neck? i am assuming that only the back of the neck gets finished is this correct? the price also jumps considerably when you add finishing... if i am at a 380$ neck before shipping i might as well save more and go with a mim charvel and sell the body i was going to use this with!

Warmoth necks don't fit Charvel bodies, and vice versa
If you're talking rosewood or ebony fingerboard, no need for extra finish, just some lemon oil or similar will do
Finishing the back of the neck should be almost as easy as applying that lemon oil

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Thanks for the info guys.. what are the downfalls of not finishing the neck? i am assuming that only the back of the neck gets finished is this correct? the price also jumps considerably when you add finishing... if i am at a 380$ neck before shipping i might as well save more and go with a mim charvel and sell the body i was going to use this with!

Warmoth necks don't fit Charvel bodies, and vice versa
If you're talking rosewood or ebony fingerboard, no need for extra finish, just some lemon oil or similar will do
Finishing the back of the neck should be almost as easy as applying that lemon oil

Yep talking rosewood board all the way. I'm actually also talking with a guy who built me a custom axe with a neck I love about building me the same one so that might be the way to go. Price point would be the same and I know what I'm getting because he still has the specs from my first neck. Love that thing.

 

[Anonymous]

Warmoth is a good compromise between cost, quality and customizability
If you can get a luthier to build you a neck at the same price, go for it!
As stated earlier, if you can find a neck of your liking in the Warmoth in-stock inventory and finish it yourself, that's where you can save some bucks.

BTW, my warmoth-relic guitar should be ready soon, I shall post pics when it is