Truss rod--Neck relief question?

[MetalHeadMike]

Is there a point when adjusting to add relief on a double action truss rod that no additional relief will be added?

In other words, your turning the rod nut counterclockwise to add relief and the relief increases between fret and straightedge to a point, but then the nut tension decreases and it is easily turned without any resistance as your turning it and no further relief is added.

The max relief I can achieve on this guitar is roughly 1mm. Should I be able to achieve greater relief, or is that about average max relief for most guitars?

 

[cardinal]

I would think that a double-action rod's nut should not get "loose" at the end of it's travel. Does the nut come off?

But 1 mm of relief should be plenty. If you're adding relief to avoid buzz somewhere, you'd probably be happier getting some fret work rather than trying to add more relief.

 

[Luca79]

1mm is too much, in my experience.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

Thanks gents.

 

[Chester Nimitz]

You should never turn more than 1/4 turn at a time [roughly].

Neck woods are susceptible to temp & humidity.

I just went through adjusting all the rods on 9 guitars last month and i had setups last fall.

You may need a Pro fret level & setup.

If your frets aren't level truss rods wont help.

 

[Wizard of Ozz]

1.00 mm is way too much. When holding down the low E string at the 1st and 14 fret and looking at the top 7th fret from both the low and high E sides... the top of the fret to the held down low E string, you should have less than .50 mm of clearance... more like .25 mm of clearance on the high E. Metal spacer gauges are best for measuring the clearance when adjusting relief. Otherwise it's pure guess work. But 1.00 mm of clearance when measuring as I described is way too much. I'd tighten the truss rod all the clockwise till it stops, then back it off till you get more or less .50-.25 mm of clearance at the 7th fret. Let the guitar settle overnight before adjusting... and then only 1/4-1/2 turn of the rod there after.

 

[mniel8195]

I like .005'' at the 7th fret. D and g string must just clear a feeler gauge. Use a capo and hold down the 7th fret. That is what i use on my suhr modern.

 

[Fuego]

Is there a point when adjusting to add relief on a double action truss rod that no additional relief will be added?

In other words, your turning the rod nut counterclockwise to add relief and the relief increases between fret and straightedge to a point, but then the nut tension decreases and it is easily turned without any resistance as your turning it and no further relief is added.

The max relief I can achieve on this guitar is roughly 1mm. Should I be able to achieve greater relief, or is that about average max relief for most guitars?

To answer it question, a dual action truss rod, has middle point between loosening and tightening that is slack. Keep turning but go super slow it will regain tension.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

You should never turn more than 1/4 turn at a time [roughly].

Neck woods are susceptible to temp & humidity.

I just went through adjusting all the rods on 9 guitars last month and i had setups last fall.

You may need a Pro fret level & setup.

If your frets aren't level truss rods wont help.

Yep. I only turn it in about 1/8" increments.

Have to consider the fret leveling.

 

[Chester Nimitz]

40 years playing guitar i didn't get my first Pro fret level & setup til last year.

It was such a dramatic difference i had all my guitars done.

The tech charges $100 a pop but i did it over 2 months, totally amazing.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

1.00 mm is way too much. When holding down the low E string at the 1st and 14 fret and looking at the top 7th fret from both the low and high E sides... the top of the fret to the held down low E string, you should have less than .50 mm of clearance... more like .25 mm of clearance on the high E. Metal spacer gauges are best for measuring the clearance when adjusting relief. Otherwise it's pure guess work. But 1.00 mm of clearance when measuring as I described is way too much. I'd tighten the truss rod all the clockwise till it stops, then back it off till you get more or less .50-.25 mm of clearance at the 7th fret. Let the guitar settle overnight before adjusting... and then only 1/4-1/2 turn of the rod there after.

My fault here, I should have clarified. The 1mm is without depressing the string; when depressed with the 1st and 14th fretted, there's very little clearance; probably close to .50-.25 mm. Don't have a feelers, should probably get some. I've always set up by feel, sound, and playability for my tastes. been lucky so far I guess.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

Is there a point when adjusting to add relief on a double action truss rod that no additional relief will be added?

In other words, your turning the rod nut counterclockwise to add relief and the relief increases between fret and straightedge to a point, but then the nut tension decreases and it is easily turned without any resistance as your turning it and no further relief is added.

The max relief I can achieve on this guitar is roughly 1mm. Should I be able to achieve greater relief, or is that about average max relief for most guitars?

To answer it question, a dual action truss rod, has middle point between loosening and tightening that is slack. Keep turning but go super slow it will regain tension.

Thanks bud. That's what I had going on, so sounds like its functioning properly.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

40 years playing guitar i didn't get my first Pro fret level & setup til last year.

It was such a dramatic difference i had all my guitars done.

The tech charges $100 a pop but i did it over 2 months, totally amazing.

You think a new mid level ($1500) guitar from a Co. like Gibson or Jackson could have fretwork out the door that could have fret leveling issues?

Who did you use?

 

[Chester Nimitz]

40 years playing guitar i didn't get my first Pro fret level & setup til last year.

It was such a dramatic difference i had all my guitars done.

The tech charges $100 a pop but i did it over 2 months, totally amazing.

You think a new mid level ($1500) guitar from a Co. like Gibson or Jackson could have fretwork out the door that could have fret leveling issues?

Who did you use?

Yes, any guitar can/has issues especially new.

I used Dave Anderson of Tritone Guitars St. Louis MO.

http://tritone-guitars.com

 

[cardinal]

A new Gibson should be Plek'd. That process has limitations, but on a brand new guitar, it should give pretty solid results.

But if you want the best action possible, there's an artistry to it. I'm sure the guys doing productions Jacksons and such are fine, but IME there are some guys out there that can do significantly better. Whenever I buy a guitar now, I pretty much send it to Brian Howard for fretwork. I'm super picky about set ups and fretwork, and he does a fantastic job. I used to pull my hair out trying to set things up to get the action low while avoiding buzzing, even new ESPs and MIJ Ibanez guitars. But now I never have to worry about it after Brian's done his thing.

 

[MetalHeadMike]

40 years playing guitar i didn't get my first Pro fret level & setup til last year.

It was such a dramatic difference i had all my guitars done.

The tech charges $100 a pop but i did it over 2 months, totally amazing.

You think a new mid level ($1500) guitar from a Co. like Gibson or Jackson could have fretwork out the door that could have fret leveling issues?

Who did you use?

Yes, any guitar can/has issues especially new.

I used Dave Anderson of Tritone Guitars St. Louis MO.

http://tritone-guitars.com

 

[MetalHeadMike]

A new Gibson should be Plek'd. That process has limitations, but on a brand new guitar, it should give pretty solid results.

But if you want the best action possible, there's an artistry to it. I'm sure the guys doing productions Jacksons and such are fine, but IME there are some guys out there that can do significantly better. Whenever I buy a guitar now, I pretty much send it to Brian Howard for fretwork. I'm super picky about set ups and fretwork, and he does a fantastic job. I used to pull my hair out trying to set things up to get the action low while avoiding buzzing, even new ESPs and MIJ Ibanez guitars. But now I never have to worry about it after Brian's done his thing.

Thanks for the info

I'm definitely super picky and pick up on the slightest anomaly in tone; be it from the guitar or amp. Some people may not even hear the stuff I do and would be fine with a particular setup etc, but buzz, rattle, even slight intonation issues bug the shit out of me.

 

[cardinal]

A new Gibson should be Plek'd. That process has limitations, but on a brand new guitar, it should give pretty solid results.

But if you want the best action possible, there's an artistry to it. I'm sure the guys doing productions Jacksons and such are fine, but IME there are some guys out there that can do significantly better. Whenever I buy a guitar now, I pretty much send it to Brian Howard for fretwork. I'm super picky about set ups and fretwork, and he does a fantastic job. I used to pull my hair out trying to set things up to get the action low while avoiding buzzing, even new ESPs and MIJ Ibanez guitars. But now I never have to worry about it after Brian's done his thing.

Thanks for the info

I'm definitely super picky and pick up on the slightest anomaly in tone; be it from the guitar or amp. Some people may not even hear the stuff I do and would be fine with a particular setup etc, but buzz, rattle, even slight intonation issues bug the shit out of me.

Yeah, I'm kinda the same way. If someone just hands me a guitar and says "play this," I can happly jam on pretty much anything with a decent set up. But as soon as I own it, my OCD takes over. Kinda annoying. But now that I just concede to spending a bit extra for expert fretwork, the constant guitar flipping has really settled down. I have stuff that I'm really happy with and when I see a cool guitar, I know it won't play any better than what I already have.