B
bruce egnater
New member
Here are a few of my views about tubes. Often people get hung up on very specific bias currents for certain tubes. Really this is not something that needs to be that accurate. There is a reasonable range that tubes can safely idle at. 70% is not necessarily the "magic" number that makes everything great. It is just like the idle speed on a car engine. If you idle your tubes (engine) very high for a long time, you will tend to wear things out faster and shorten your tube life, but your amp may feel more responsive. If the idle current is on the lower end, the tubes will last longer but the tone/feel may be affected. This doesn't mean in a bad way, just different. You can experiment to try to find your "magic" setting. It is not like running the idle current (bias) a little high will instantly destroy your tubes. When you play, especially at high volumes, your tubes draw way more current than at idle anyway. Your tubes don't know the difference between idle current and sound. They just respond to some incoming voltage. Point is, if you play often (and loud and distorted) this causes more wear on your tubes than the idle (bias) current. If you play really loud and distorted most of the time, it's sort of like holding the gas pedal to the floor for a long time. Something will eventually give. This even goes for small, low power amps. Same situation exists, just with a smaller engine (power tubes). But........a serious killer of tubes is physical damage. When you move your amp around, you inevitably jar the tubes which can fatigue or break the delicate internal metal parts. When this happens, one part may touch another that is not supposed to touch creating a short. Ah, a shorted tube!! You can help this situation a bit by at least not moving your amp around while the tubes are still hot. If possible, wait a few minutes for the metal parts to cool before you move the amp. Of course, these are generalizations, but you get the idea....I hope.