
glpg80
Well-known member
Tru-oil is a sealer - i do not like them on guitar necks at all.
Linseed oil is a variant of danish oil and is not a sealer. It does not protect against moisture. It leaves a satin finish once absorbed. Over time you can wear a satin finish down and will need to repair it as needed. This is from ESP custom shop's mouth themselves in regards to my satin finish maple neck.
Danish oil is polymerized linseed oil and is a sealer as it has solvents added to it. It is not the same thing as pure linseed oil.
Tung-oil or danish oil dries when exposed to air. When cut with a solvent it leaves a satin matte finish that can be polished with fine steel wool to get the feel that you like.
Tung-oil cut with a citrus thinner or pure linseed oil is the way to go. Boiled linseed will bring out figured maple finishes really really well but also show dents. You can add waxes to add moisture protection if you desire. I do not use waxes on satin finished necks but it is an old school charvel trick. Some like it others dont.
Tung-oil in its purest form is getting harder to find but is my preference. Cut it with a citrus solvent and apply a few thin layers followed by steel wool.
Also note that if you cure a neck with an oil + varnish/solvent you should only cure the neck with the same solvent oil mixture from then on. This goes for you Tru-oil guys. If you attempt to oil an oil/varnished neck you will get a gum-buildup since the solvent will repel the pure oil.
Linseed oil is a variant of danish oil and is not a sealer. It does not protect against moisture. It leaves a satin finish once absorbed. Over time you can wear a satin finish down and will need to repair it as needed. This is from ESP custom shop's mouth themselves in regards to my satin finish maple neck.
Danish oil is polymerized linseed oil and is a sealer as it has solvents added to it. It is not the same thing as pure linseed oil.
Tung-oil or danish oil dries when exposed to air. When cut with a solvent it leaves a satin matte finish that can be polished with fine steel wool to get the feel that you like.
Tung-oil cut with a citrus thinner or pure linseed oil is the way to go. Boiled linseed will bring out figured maple finishes really really well but also show dents. You can add waxes to add moisture protection if you desire. I do not use waxes on satin finished necks but it is an old school charvel trick. Some like it others dont.
Tung-oil in its purest form is getting harder to find but is my preference. Cut it with a citrus solvent and apply a few thin layers followed by steel wool.
Also note that if you cure a neck with an oil + varnish/solvent you should only cure the neck with the same solvent oil mixture from then on. This goes for you Tru-oil guys. If you attempt to oil an oil/varnished neck you will get a gum-buildup since the solvent will repel the pure oil.