NGD: EVH Wolfgang Special! Need help with some issues...

napalmdeath

Well-known member
Came yesterday, and it's simply gorgeous! After unboxing it, I did see a few minor finish flaws, but overall, nothing to really gripe about.

Setup was excellent. Out of the box, it was in tune! Granted, E-flat, and .009's, but it was spot on. Fretwork is fantastic.

I immediately got to work putting .010's on it, oiled up the fretboard, and some fret polishing. Now, it only came with 2 springs, so I added a third. TOO stiff. So, I'll have to address that.

Here's my only reservations. With just the 2 springs, it's too spongy. So much so, when you do bends and such, (without the whammy bar), you can here the bridge "pop" on and off the body. With the whammy, even moreso. Now, I understand that it's non-floating, and flush-mounted, but they should put some kind of dampening device, (foam pad, soft rubber, etc.,) under the bridge, on the wood to eliminate this annoyance. However, I have some ideas.

Initially, I had issues with using the whammy, and return to pitch going way sharp. I think I have this fixed. I, of course, had to compensate for more tension with the .010's, but what seemed to look good, apparently wasn't enough, so I cranked the spring screws in even more. Seems much better.

Overall, I'm impressed with the pickups, (neck may be a tad muddy), but the bridge absolutely screams through my Yeti. Harmonics just fly off this thing. And, you can dial the action in absurdly low. It plays really well. To me, it smokes the Pro Mods for ease of set up. I never had to touch the truss rod thumb wheel. Just lowered the bridge, and it took to it like a champ. The D-Tuna is a piece of cake to set up, and works like a charm.

For those curious about the neck profile, its very comfortable. It's got a little more beef than the Pro Mods, yet somewhat thin. I certainly wouldn't call it flat.

Anybody with experience with these bridges, I'd like to know what's worked for you to quiet it down smacking the wood, and/or if you've tried heavier duty springs.

00Z0Z_3F5SnGRjNAA_600x450.jpg



Well, I thought I had a couple kinks worked out. More spring tension knocked out the issue with the bridge tapping against the wood, but I still cant work out why returning to pitch after tremolo use always goes way sharp. In addition, after tuning up, locking down the locking nut, both my low E and A go sharp. It's annoying the piss out of me. Initially, I assumed the lock nut issue was the string tree needing cranked down a bit to get the strings flush in the nut, no dice.. Any ideas?? I think tonight, I'll go back to three springs, and try III set up, rather than\I/ with the springs. Maybe this will give me more stability, better return to pitch, and less tension than the two outers angled.

I really love the guitar. I'd hate to return it, but I bought it new, so I can definitely exchange it. But, I think trial and error will fix it.
 
I changed my strings to a custom 10.5 > 54 set for dropC/standardD
I'm not much for doing setups myself, but on this one, I just needed to adjust the screws near the springs and twist them into the body. The bridge doesn't move when I bend, it stays right on the body- that might be the tweak you need, screw it in a bit more. Not sure how many springs I have in there, I'll have to check
Hope that helps
 
crankyrayhanky":24klv573 said:
I changed my strings to a custom 10.5 > 54 set for dropC/standardD
I'm not much for doing setups myself, but on this one, I just needed to adjust the screws near the springs and twist them into the body. The bridge doesn't move when I bend, it stays right on the body- that might be the tweak you need, screw it in a bit more. Not sure how many springs I have in there, I'll have to check
Hope that helps

Yep, I agree. I think I need to crank them down some more. I'm thinking that much tension will lesson the sponginess of the bridge as well. With 3 springs in there, it definitely didn't have that slapping against the body, but it was also way too stiff on the dive bombs.

Love the guitar. It's alot of fun to play. Little weird feeling, you'd never know it was 25.5" scale, it feels like a stubby little thing. I don't know if it's the stubby headstock, or the way the neck joins the body, but it's different. Feels like a 24.5.
 
I have like 6 of these bad boys...
If you are using 10's.... put the extra spring in and tune the guitar to pitch, bend the b string as high as you can and make sure the bridge doesn't lift. If it does tighten the claw so there is no lift.
Make sure the neck is almost dead straight with maybe 2m relief at the 12th or less, check that bridge is parallel to the body and that the back plate comes in contact with the body evenly on both the treble and bass sides.
 
f550maranello2":2cg4eggk said:
I have like 6 of these bad boys...
If you are using 10's.... put the extra spring in and tune the guitar to pitch, bend the b string as high as you can and make sure the bridge doesn't lift. If it does tighten the claw so there is no lift.
Make sure the neck is almost dead straight with maybe 2m relief at the 12th or less, check that bridge is parallel to the body and that the back plate comes in contact with the body evenly on both the treble and bass sides.

Are you running the springs inline, or two outers angled? I'm curious if 3 inline would be less stiff than one center, and outers angled. Makes sense to me that no current spring down the middle, and BDG are going sharp the worst.
 
napalmdeath":13qjcgj5 said:
f550maranello2":13qjcgj5 said:
I have like 6 of these bad boys...
If you are using 10's.... put the extra spring in and tune the guitar to pitch, bend the b string as high as you can and make sure the bridge doesn't lift. If it does tighten the claw so there is no lift.
Make sure the neck is almost dead straight with maybe 2m relief at the 12th or less, check that bridge is parallel to the body and that the back plate comes in contact with the body evenly on both the treble and bass sides.

Are you running the springs inline, or two outers angled? I'm curious if 3 inline would be less stiff than one center, and outers angled. Makes sense to me that no current spring down the middle, and BDG are going sharp the worst.

2 outers angled.. check the nut clamps as well.
 
f550maranello2":3hqyt7o7 said:
napalmdeath":3hqyt7o7 said:
f550maranello2":3hqyt7o7 said:
I have like 6 of these bad boys...
If you are using 10's.... put the extra spring in and tune the guitar to pitch, bend the b string as high as you can and make sure the bridge doesn't lift. If it does tighten the claw so there is no lift.
Make sure the neck is almost dead straight with maybe 2m relief at the 12th or less, check that bridge is parallel to the body and that the back plate comes in contact with the body evenly on both the treble and bass sides.

Are you running the springs inline, or two outers angled? I'm curious if 3 inline would be less stiff than one center, and outers angled. Makes sense to me that no current spring down the middle, and BDG are going sharp the worst.

2 outers angled.. check the nut clamps as well.

I actually returned it for a new one. It turns out, the threaded pins in the body that the bridge studs thread to were pulling out! The whole bridge was lifting! You could physically lift the bridge up, and push it back down.I have a replacement coming.

I hate that it had a defect, but I truly loved the guitar, so I'm willing to give it another shot!
 
napalmdeath":3ggaat7e said:
f550maranello2":3ggaat7e said:
napalmdeath":3ggaat7e said:
f550maranello2":3ggaat7e said:
I have like 6 of these bad boys...
If you are using 10's.... put the extra spring in and tune the guitar to pitch, bend the b string as high as you can and make sure the bridge doesn't lift. If it does tighten the claw so there is no lift.
Make sure the neck is almost dead straight with maybe 2m relief at the 12th or less, check that bridge is parallel to the body and that the back plate comes in contact with the body evenly on both the treble and bass sides.

Are you running the springs inline, or two outers angled? I'm curious if 3 inline would be less stiff than one center, and outers angled. Makes sense to me that no current spring down the middle, and BDG are going sharp the worst.

2 outers angled.. check the nut clamps as well.

I actually returned it for a new one. It turns out, the threaded pins in the body that the bridge studs thread to were pulling out! The whole bridge was lifting! You could physically lift the bridge up, and push it back down.I have a replacement coming.

I hate that it had a defect, but I truly loved the guitar, so I'm willing to give it another shot!

Oh damn, that is actually really good that you found that defect. So many issues with new guitars of all makes and models over the last few years it seems. :no:

I was going to say, if there were no defects and you still had these issues. I have had techs swap springs out to some aftermarket springs that felt much less stiff. You definitely need a certain tension (especially at lower tunings) but there are springs out there that will do that and feel good still. I don't know much about it tbh just throwing it out there.

Congrats on the guitar though in advance for the next one. I have always wanted to try one of these.
 
napalmdeath":3bceivun said:
In addition, after tuning up, locking down the locking nut, both my low E and A go sharp. It's annoying the piss out of me. Initially, I assumed the lock nut issue was the string tree needing cranked down a bit to get the strings flush in the nut, no dice.. Any ideas??

That is pretty common for locking nuts. I usually tune my low E a little under pitch before I lock so I don't have to back off the fine tuner so much. I don't have the issue as much with A strings.
Keep in mind you don't need to go crazy with the allen wrench on those locking nut screws. I would recommend going lighter than you think and then putting a little more torque if you believe the strings are slipping.
 
peckhart":39wuc93m said:
napalmdeath":39wuc93m said:
In addition, after tuning up, locking down the locking nut, both my low E and A go sharp. It's annoying the piss out of me. Initially, I assumed the lock nut issue was the string tree needing cranked down a bit to get the strings flush in the nut, no dice.. Any ideas??

That is pretty common for locking nuts. I usually tune my low E a little under pitch before I lock so I don't have to back off the fine tuner so much. I don't have the issue as much with A strings.
Keep in mind you don't need to go crazy with the allen wrench on those locking nut screws. I would recommend going lighter than you think and then putting a little more torque if you believe the strings are slipping.

I don't have that issue with my Schecter, one bit.
Typically, it stems from the string tree not being low enough to force the strings flush in the nut. If the strings don't bottom out in the nut grooves, theyll go way sharp. Of course, a poorly mounted lock nut plays tricks too.
 
napalmdeath":2oxa3cy9 said:
peckhart":2oxa3cy9 said:
napalmdeath":2oxa3cy9 said:
In addition, after tuning up, locking down the locking nut, both my low E and A go sharp. It's annoying the piss out of me. Initially, I assumed the lock nut issue was the string tree needing cranked down a bit to get the strings flush in the nut, no dice.. Any ideas??

That is pretty common for locking nuts. I usually tune my low E a little under pitch before I lock so I don't have to back off the fine tuner so much. I don't have the issue as much with A strings.
Keep in mind you don't need to go crazy with the allen wrench on those locking nut screws. I would recommend going lighter than you think and then putting a little more torque if you believe the strings are slipping.

I don't have that issue with my Schecter, one bit.
Typically, it stems from the string tree not being low enough to force the strings flush in the nut. If the strings don't bottom out in the nut grooves, theyll go way sharp. Of course, a poorly mounted lock nut plays tricks too.

I see what you are saying. My experience is on my LP Axcess', which doesn't have a string tree just the angled neck. I'll pay closer attention next time I restring to whether or not the strings seem to lay flat or not.
 
peckhart":2rv4k6o7 said:
napalmdeath":2rv4k6o7 said:
peckhart":2rv4k6o7 said:
napalmdeath":2rv4k6o7 said:
In addition, after tuning up, locking down the locking nut, both my low E and A go sharp. It's annoying the piss out of me. Initially, I assumed the lock nut issue was the string tree needing cranked down a bit to get the strings flush in the nut, no dice.. Any ideas??

That is pretty common for locking nuts. I usually tune my low E a little under pitch before I lock so I don't have to back off the fine tuner so much. I don't have the issue as much with A strings.
Keep in mind you don't need to go crazy with the allen wrench on those locking nut screws. I would recommend going lighter than you think and then putting a little more torque if you believe the strings are slipping.

I don't have that issue with my Schecter, one bit.
Typically, it stems from the string tree not being low enough to force the strings flush in the nut. If the strings don't bottom out in the nut grooves, theyll go way sharp. Of course, a poorly mounted lock nut plays tricks too.

I see what you are saying. My experience is on my LP Axcess', which doesn't have a string tree just the angled neck. I'll pay closer attention next time I restring to whether or not the strings seem to lay flat or not.

Yeah, think about it. If you tune up and some of the strings arent flush in the nut slots, as soon as you put the locking nut back on, and tighten it, they raise the pitch.
 
Back
Top