BE100 Cap Fix

Rising Farce

Active member
I had my BE100 out of its head shell today and noticed that one of the canister caps had a broken/separated leg:

https://imgur.com/a/EQ0WqH1

Can I simply re-solder the leg to the can and call it good, or is a more in-depth repair process warranted?

Thanks in advance for the help, and apologies for the rudimentary nature of the question.
 
Tacking it back on would probably get it working again, but you should change that part. It's an F&T axial lead electrolytic. Discharge it first just in case. If you solder it do it quick.
 
PatF":1e9yv4yq said:
Tacking it back on would probably get it working again, but you should change that part. It's an F&T axial lead electrolytic. Discharge it first just in case. If you solder it do it quick.

It sounds like I should probably get the part replaced by a pro, since 1. I want the amp to be 100 percent functional, and 2. would prefer not to set my hair on fire with stored electricity.

Thanks for the info.
 
V2a":2mvjdway said:
It needs to be replaced.

Roger that.

Not that I'm disputing your call--because I'm not--but what is it about coming loose that renders the part unusable? I'm genuinely curious, as someone who knows very little about electronics.
 
Rising Farce":31p7sqgh said:
I had my BE100 out of its head shell today and noticed that one of the canister caps had a broken/separated leg:

https://imgur.com/a/EQ0WqH1

Can I simply re-solder the leg to the can and call it good, or is a more in-depth repair process warranted?

Thanks in advance for the help, and apologies for the rudimentary nature of the question.


According to my layout/Schem of my (2013 George Metropoulos Assembled) dual input BE 100 this is part of the Mains Filtering for Center Tap and HT. A series of 2 100uf caps.

I would play the amp remembering how it feels and sounds especially at loud volumes. Then connect it to stock specs to decide if it sounds and feels better.

"Decreasing the capacitance of a filter cap decreases its storage space, making less charge available to power the amp. During peak demands, like a percussive bass note or a sudden chord, the voltage supply will sag.

When the voltage supply sags, the gain of the amplifier goes down. Then, when the demand subsides, the gain goes back up.

This gain compression can be musically desirable, improving the "feel" of the amplifier as it self-adjusts to the player's attack.

However, if you lower the filter capacitance by too much, unfiltered AC hum can propagate through the amp."

Learn more here. http://www.bustedgear.com/faq_Amp_recap.html

David...♫
 
FourT6and2":7q67qd5n said:
It's a simple fix. Just order a new cap and replace. Any competent tech can do it in about 10 minutes: https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/c ... ectrolytic


FourT6and2, this is a great opportunity for Rising Farce to learn to see and feel results as well if desired. Anyone smart enough to ask after looking and identifying this issue should be offered more of an explanation and opportunity IMO.

Best to all, David...♫
 
Thanks for the input, everyone. I'll tinker (carefully) with it tomorrow, then most likely have it repaired by a pro. Although the amp seems to work OK as is, there is some noticeable background hiss and scratchiness that I imagine is due to the cap problem.
 
Rising Farce":sma1l2n2 said:
Thanks for the input, everyone. I'll tinker (carefully) with it tomorrow, then most likely have it repaired by a pro. Although the amp seems to work OK as is, there is some noticeable background hiss and scratchiness that I imagine is due to the cap problem.

Cool. Be careful of high lethal voltages. Never place both hands inside the chassis unless you know for a fact there is no voltage remaining. Hope you get to learn from the experience.

David
 
If you resolder it back on temporarily, I’d use a zip tie to hold it in place. No need for the solder joint to act as support to hold it in place.
 
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