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PostPosted: Fri, Mar 15, 2019 8:06pm 
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Supah Stah
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I've been getting a ton of PMs on how I built my clones and where to get the parts and other random stuff. I've decided to make this massive post to help folks find their tone quest while quenching their DIY thirst.

    Will you build me a Integrated Preamp/33?
    No. Not unless you want to pay $100-150 for my time. Each build, while being fun, takes a lot of time and care to make. I'm too much of a perfectionist and it takes me a while to build my own pedals. I encourage you to learn pedal building and electronic basics and try your hand at it.

    You really gonna rip off my boy Mikey like that?
    This pedal itself is a copy. I have no hard feelings or ill intent towards Fortin. They brought an obscure pedal to the forefront of the modern scene. This is a fun DIY/Hobby project, I'm just giving folks the option to build it themselves considering they are not available to buy directly from Fortin anymore and the used market is very pricey. I have only built these pedals for myself and close friends.

    What kind of resistors do I choose?
    1/4w Metal Film Resistors with 1% Tolerance. They are the standard for pedal building. There is no reason to use 1/8w Resistors unless you really need to save space on bread/vero/perf boards. Most modern PCBs leave plenty of space. Why not Carbon Comp? Old, noisey and way too much variance with tolerances. Why not Carbon Film? 5% Tolerance isn't worth it. Slight tolerances like that can alter the "tone" of the pedal.

    What kind of Capacitor do I choose?
    Polarity: Look at the schematics. Capacitors have 2 different symbols denoting if they need polarity or not. Don't know how to read schematics? (You should consider learning, but..) Polarized Capacitors: --+|(-- . Non-Polarized Capacitors: --||-- . Or look at the actual PCB and it'll show a square solder patch with a + next to it. If your Capacitor needs polarity you need an Electrolytic Capacitor. If not use Film or Ceramic.
    Voltage: Use capacitors rated 18v or above. This specific pedal has a charge pump that can ouput up to 12v (or at least that's what the datasheet says). I, personally, would use 25v-35v+ to be safe. Careful not to over do it with huge voltage Capacitors, they will be physically larger in size and will not fit your PCB
    Box vs. Mylar film? Boxes look cool as fuck, just fucking use them so you don't have a turd looking pedal.

    Do I really need to buy the 3PDT Breakout board?
    Do you know true bypass wiring on a 3PDT switch without googling it? If you do, skip this. If you don't, this makes it 100x easier for you. No guess work.

    Where does [this component] go on the board?
    READ THE BUILD DOCUMENTS. Read them thoroughly and even print them out if you need to when you're building. Reading the instructions and looking over the schematics can make or break your build. Don't be lazy, I'm doing everything else for you.

    Where should I order _____ from?
    I've condensed these builds to ONE website for parts. Yes there are nicer enclosure options elsewhere, yes there are dope switches on BLMS, yes better LED housings are on other sites. This is the easiest way to build these. If you want suggestions for anything else, just post in this thread and ask.

Rullywow Integrated Preamp Build
This build is specifically for a direct clone of the Integrated Preamp. This is THE pedal the guys of Messhugah have used and what Fortin based the 33 pedal from. The only difference in this pedal is there are 3 Control Knobs instead of 1. You can build this one to have more versatility and dial in the tone to YOUR taste. You ask, How do I make this only one knob? Use small trimmer potentiometers mounted directly to the board, adjust to taste, close up the pedal and forget they exist. Wiring a fixed resistor over a PCB made for a Potentiometer is complicated at best. OR SCROLL DOWN FURTHER TO THE PEDALPCB BUILD

Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.rullywow.com/product/chuggapre/
https://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/

Where do I get the Build Docs?
Chugga Pre: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... e-v1.0.pdf
3PDT: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.pdf

Where do I get the parts?
Quote:
Film Capacitors:
x2 47nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 4.7nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 22nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 220nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html

Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100PF
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html

Electrolytic Capacitors
x2 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x4 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html

Resistors:
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 6.8M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-8m-o ... istor.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 470 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 8.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html

Diodes:
x3 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html

Potentiometers
x2 50kC - Bass & Treble Controls
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/c50k-o ... unt-l.html
x1 50kA - Volume Control
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... mount.html
OPTIONAL Internal Trimmer Pots to hide inside the enclosure INSTEAD of the first two listed pots. You need two:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... 3362p.html

Integrated Circuit
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html

Transistors
x1 BC548/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/bc548- ... -0-1a.html

Misc. Parts
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x10 1.5k/3.3k Ohm Resistor FOR THE LED - Choose 1.5k or 3.3k for whatever Brightness you want:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html

Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b



Pedal PCB Fortin 33 Build
This build is specifically closer to the Fortin 33. This is in every way still the Integrated Preamp, but with the guess work of the Bass/Treble potentiometers out of the way. The design of this build is really neato, but this is a really intensive build compared to the Rullywow board. Be sure to double check where you're putting resistors/diodes in this build.

Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/triangulum/
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/3pdt/

Where do I get the Build Docs?
Triangulum: https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Triangulum.pdf
3PDT: https://www.pedalpcb.com/wp-content/upl ... 1/3PDT.png


Where do I get the parts?
Quote:
Electrolytic Capacitors
x2 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x5 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 100uf
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html

Film Capacitors
x2 47nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 10nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 100nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 470nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html

Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100pF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html

Resistors:
x10 47 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 120 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 1k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1.8k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 2.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 3.9k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-9k-o ... istor.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 12k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 20k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 22k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html

Transistors
x2 BC500/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... t/?q=bc550

Integrated Circuits
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html

Diodes
x2 1N914 - Be careful with these delicate little fucks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n914- ... -100v.html
x1 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html
x6 1N4001
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4001 ... a-50v.html

Misc. Parts
x1 5kA Logarithmic Potentiometer
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potent ... -lugs.html
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html

Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b


Like I said above, read the build documents. Ensure you order ALL the parts you need, double check I didn't forget one. It's a real pain in the ass ordering again for a $0.25 part.


Tools?
Quote:
Soldering Iron
I'd suggest a soldering station where you can manually adjust the temperature. You want it hot enough to get solder flowing quickly. If you use a crappy plugin iron, you run the risk of having to heat contacts longer and potentially damaging parts or burning out the PCB.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23B ... 00ANZRT4M/

PCB Helping Hands
I'd also recommend a set of helping hands SPECIFICALLY for PCB boards. I can't tell you how much better it is to be able to put components in, flip and solder with a tool meant for it. I designed and 3D Printed my own but here are some suggestions to get you going:
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjus ... B00Q2TTQEE
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-360%C ... B07HRMF1RQ
https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Flip-C ... B073G95GRF

Step Drill Bits
A step drill bit set, this is essential if you're building any kind of pedals. Pilot hole drill where you want to put stuff, drill those holes out up to 3/16", then use the step drill to get the right sizing. Let me tell you, building pedals before getting these was a pain in the fucking BALLS.
https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium- ... 60379.html

Non-Magnetic Tweeziez
A set of non-magnetic tweezers. While not necessary for you, I use a really nice pair nearly every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-M ... 00FZPEWI6/





If you've made it this far, the following is my latest Fortin 33 / TC Electronics Integrated Preamp Build. This is in a Pedal PCB Triangulum build in a 1590B enclosure. I used insulated stereo jacks (when I probably shouldn't have), which made this an extremely tight fit. This is why I'd suggest a 125B for someone doing this casually.

Image

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Last edited by vultures on Mon, Apr 01, 2019 10:35am, edited 6 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri, Mar 15, 2019 8:27pm 
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Dude - thanks so much!! I happened to order a ChuggaPre and 3pdtv3 switch last week as a DIY project, but hadn't sourced all the components... Now I have easy links to use!!! And thanks for listing all the miscellaneous hardware and tools as well!!!

Cheers

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Last edited by LCW on Fri, Mar 15, 2019 8:41pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri, Mar 15, 2019 8:39pm 
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You so sexy. Good work.

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PostPosted: Fri, Mar 15, 2019 8:51pm 
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Haha hilarious. I am about to build some as well.

Sub anything for tl071 yet? Interested in opa134 and I ordered some lm49710 to try.

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PostPosted: Fri, Mar 15, 2019 9:25pm 
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Supah Stah
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moltenmetalburn wrote:
Haha hilarious. I am about to build some as well.

Sub anything for tl071 yet? Interested in opa134 and I ordered some lm49710 to try.


I've been socketing my builds so I can swap IC's in and out. OPA134 should work, but I haven't tried it yet.

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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 12:10am 
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Cool ! Thanks for sharing !!


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 6:44am 
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This is very cool, thanks for posting it!

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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 7:46am 
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How does it sound ? Is this even close to the real thing ?


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 8:05am 
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Nice writeup :thumbsup: Also love the enclosure.

hopkinWFG wrote:
How does it sound ? Is this even close to the real thing ?


I haven't done the Triangulum but built an Integrated Pre and have A/B'ed it with a Fortin 33 into a Multi-watt Dual Recto and it is very very close. Maybe a hair less boost on the Integrated.


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 8:12am 
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I haven’t built the rullywow board, but I made tc pre clones using the pedalpcb integral pre board and a tagboard clone based off the schematic on google images, and they both sound exactly the same as my real tc integrated preamp from the 80’s.

The rullywow board I think only has a 17v charge pump so that my explain it being slightly quieter. The 33/triangulum/integral pre boards all have 33v charge pumps.


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 8:26am 
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mnemonic wrote:
I haven’t built the rullywow board, but I made tc pre clones using the pedalpcb integral pre board and a tagboard clone based off the schematic on google images, and they both sound exactly the same as my real tc integrated preamp from the 80’s.

The rullywow board I think only has a 17v charge pump so that my explain it being slightly quieter. The 33/triangulum/integral pre boards all have 33v charge pumps.



Thanks for chiming in guys... i am ready to get one off from the recommended web....

But may i know what is a 17V charged pump and a 33V charged pump?

Arent it running via a 12V DC battery ? Does it have a stepup voltage kinda thingy ? But i dont see a transformer inside the circuit thou lol


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 8:33am 
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hopkinWFG wrote:
mnemonic wrote:
I haven’t built the rullywow board, but I made tc pre clones using the pedalpcb integral pre board and a tagboard clone based off the schematic on google images, and they both sound exactly the same as my real tc integrated preamp from the 80’s.

The rullywow board I think only has a 17v charge pump so that my explain it being slightly quieter. The 33/triangulum/integral pre boards all have 33v charge pumps.



Thanks for chiming in guys... i am ready to get one off from the recommended web....

But may i know what is a 17V charged pump and a 33V charged pump?

Arent it running via a 12V DC battery ? Does it have a stepup voltage kinda thingy ? But i dont see a transformer inside the circuit thou lol


The rullywow and pedalpcb boards contain charge pumps that double the voltage (rullywow) or quadruple the voltage (pedalpcb). Minus the voltage drop from the diodes ofcourse.

I’ve run my old tc pre on multilple voltages and the higher the better. That being said, while it sounded weak and clipped at volts, 18 volts sounds fine. Slight increase in headroom and volume at 33 volts but not a huge difference.

Check the data sheet of the charge pump you choose. The tc1044scpa has a maximum voltage of 12v, While the LT1054 can take up to 15v (offers a bit more leeway). The Max1044 can only take 10 volts, and tends to die instantly if you give it even a little more.


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 8:36am 
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mnemonic wrote:
hopkinWFG wrote:
mnemonic wrote:
I haven’t built the rullywow board, but I made tc pre clones using the pedalpcb integral pre board and a tagboard clone based off the schematic on google images, and they both sound exactly the same as my real tc integrated preamp from the 80’s.

The rullywow board I think only has a 17v charge pump so that my explain it being slightly quieter. The 33/triangulum/integral pre boards all have 33v charge pumps.



Thanks for chiming in guys... i am ready to get one off from the recommended web....

But may i know what is a 17V charged pump and a 33V charged pump?

Arent it running via a 12V DC battery ? Does it have a stepup voltage kinda thingy ? But i dont see a transformer inside the circuit thou lol


The rullywow and pedalpcb boards contain charge pumps that double the voltage (rullywow) or quadruple the voltage (pedalpcb). Minus the voltage drop from the diodes ofcourse.

I’ve run my old tc pre on multilple voltages and the higher the better. That being said, while it sounded weak and clipped at volts, 18 volts sounds fine. Slight increase in headroom and volume at 33 volts but not a huge difference.

Check the data sheet of the charge pump you choose. The tc1044scpa has a maximum voltage of 12v, While the LT1054 can take up to 15v (offers a bit more leeway). The Max1044 can only take 10 volts, and tends to die instantly if you give it even a little more.



Cool ! Thanks for the advise ! I make sure i get things up going for 33V ! More headroom means sound more open and less boxy ! Lol


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 9:50am 
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Lots of pedal info at freestompboxes.org website.

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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 10:31am 
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psychodave wrote:
Lots of pedal info at freestompboxes.org website.

Cut my teeth there in about 2003 or so. 👍🏼

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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 4:40pm 
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vultures wrote:
I've been getting a ton of PMs on how I built my clones and where to get the parts and other random stuff. I've decided to make this massive post to help folks find their tone quest while quenching their DIY thirst.

    Will you build me a Integrated Preamp/33?
    No. Not unless you want to pay $100-150 for my time. Each build, while being fun, takes a lot of time and care to make. I'm too much of a perfectionist and it takes me a while to build my own pedals. I encourage you to learn pedal building and electronic basics and try your hand at it.

    You really gonna rip off my boy Mikey like that?
    This pedal itself is a copy. I have no hard feelings or ill intent towards Fortin. They brought an obscure pedal to the forefront of the modern scene. This is a fun DIY/Hobby project, I'm just giving folks the option to build it themselves considering they are not available to buy directly from Fortin anymore and the used market is very pricey. I have only built these pedals for myself and close friends.

    What kind of resistors do I choose?
    1/4w Metal Film Resistors with 1% Tolerance. They are the standard for pedal building. There is no reason to use 1/8w Resistors unless you really need to save space on bread/vero/perf boards. Most modern PCBs leave plenty of space. Why not Carbon Comp? Old, noisey and way too much variance with tolerances. Why not Carbon Film? 5% Tolerance isn't worth it. Slight tolerances like that can alter the "tone" of the pedal.

    What kind of Capacitor do I choose?
    Polarity: Look at the schematics. Capacitors have 2 different symbols denoting if they need polarity or not. Don't know how to read schematics? (You should consider learning, but..) Polarized Capacitors: --+|(-- . Non-Polarized Capacitors: --||-- . Or look at the actual PCB and it'll show a square solder patch with a + next to it. If your Capacitor needs polarity you need an Electrolytic Capacitor. If not use Film or Ceramic.
    Voltage: Use capacitors rated 18v or above. This specific pedal has a charge pump that can ouput up to 12v (or at least that's what the datasheet says). I, personally, would use 25v-35v+ to be safe. Careful not to over do it with huge voltage Capacitors, they will be physically larger in size and will not fit your PCB
    Box vs. Mylar film? Boxes look cool as fuck, just fucking use them so you don't have a turd looking pedal.

    Do I really need to buy the 3PDT Breakout board?
    Do you know true bypass wiring on a 3PDT switch without googling it? If you do, skip this. If you don't, this makes it 100x easier for you. No guess work.

    Where does [this component] go on the board?
    READ THE BUILD DOCUMENTS. Read them thoroughly and even print them out if you need to when you're building. Reading the instructions and looking over the schematics can make or break your build. Don't be lazy, I'm doing everything else for you.

    Where should I order _____ from?
    I've condensed these builds to ONE website for parts. Yes there are nicer enclosure options elsewhere, yes there are dope switches on BLMS, yes better LED housings are on other sites. This is the easiest way to build these. If you want suggestions for anything else, just post in this thread and ask.

Rullywow Integrated Preamp Build
This build is specifically for a direct clone of the Integrated Preamp. This is THE pedal the guys of Messhugah have used and what Fortin based the 33 pedal from. The only difference in this pedal is there are 3 Control Knobs instead of 1. You can build this one to have more versatility and dial in the tone to YOUR taste. You ask, How do I make this only one knob? Use small trimmer potentiometers mounted directly to the board, adjust to taste, close up the pedal and forget they exist. Wiring a fixed resistor over a PCB made for a Potentiometer is complicated at best. OR SCROLL DOWN FURTHER TO THE PEDALPCB BUILD

Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.rullywow.com/product/chuggapre/
https://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/

Where do I get the parts?
Quote:
Film Capacitors:
x2 47nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 4.7nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 22nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 220nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html

Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100PF
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html

Electrolytic Capacitors
x2 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x4 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html

Resistors:
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 6.8M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-8m-o ... istor.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 470 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 8.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html

Diodes:
x3 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html

Potentiometers
x2 50kC - Bass & Treble Controls
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/c50k-o ... unt-l.html
x1 50kA - Volume Control
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... mount.html
OPTIONAL Internal Trimmer Pots to hide inside the enclosure INSTEAD of the first two listed pots. You need two:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... 3362p.html

Integrated Circuit
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html

Transistors
x1 BC548/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/bc548- ... -0-1a.html

Misc. Parts
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x10 1.5k/3.3k Ohm Resistor FOR THE LED - Choose 1.5k or 3.3k for whatever Brightness you want:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html

Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b



Pedal PCB Fortin 33 Build
This build is specifically closer to the Fortin 33. This is in every way still the Integrated Preamp, but with the guess work of the Bass/Treble potentiometers out of the way. The design of this build is really neato, but this is a really intensive build compared to the Rullywow board. Be sure to double check where you're putting resistors/diodes in this build.

Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/triangulum/
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/3pdt/


Where do I get the parts?
Quote:
Electrolytic Capacitors
x4 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x5 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 100uf
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x12mm.html

Film Capacitors
x2 4.7nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 10nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 100nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 470nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html

Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100pF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html

Resistors:
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 120 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 1k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1.8k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 2.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 3.9k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-9k-o ... istor.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 12k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 20k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 22k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html

Transistors
x2 BC500/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... t/?q=bc550

Integrated Circuits
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html

Diodes
x2 1N914 - Be careful with these delicate little fucks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n914- ... -100v.html
x1 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html
x6 1N4001
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4001 ... a-50v.html

Misc. Parts
x1 5kA Logarithmic Potentiometer
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potent ... -lugs.html
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html

Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b


Like I said above, read the build documents. Ensure you order ALL the parts you need, double check I didn't forget one. It's a real pain in the ass ordering again for a $0.25 part.


Tools?
I'd suggest a soldering station where you can manually adjust the temperature. You want it hot enough to get solder flowing quickly. If you use a crappy plugin iron, you run the risk of having to heat contacts longer and potentially damaging parts or burning out the PCB.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23B ... 00ANZRT4M/

I'd also recommend a set of helping hands SPECIFICALLY for PCB boards. I can't tell you how much better it is to be able to put components in, flip and solder with a tool meant for it. I designed and 3D Printed my own but here are some suggestions to get you going:
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjus ... B00Q2TTQEE
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-360%C ... B07HRMF1RQ
https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Flip-C ... B073G95GRF

A step drill bit set, this is essential if you're building any kind of pedals. Pilot hole drill where you want to put stuff, drill those holes out up to 3/16", then use the step drill to get the right sizing. Let me tell you, building pedals before getting these was a pain in the fucking BALLS.
https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium- ... 60379.html

A set of non-magnetic tweezers. While not necessary for you, I use a really nice pair nearly every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-M ... 00FZPEWI6/


If you've made it this far, the following is my latest Fortin 33 / TC Electronics Integrated Preamp Build. This is in a Pedal PCB Triangulum build in a 1590B enclosure. I used insulated stereo jacks (when I probably shouldn't have), which made this an extremely tight fit. This is why I'd suggest a 125B for someone doing this casually.

Image
First off this is a great post !! I am interested in building this/these pedals but I need to ask a few questions.
I see where you say to "read the build documents"..do these documents come with the PCB's ? If not where are they located ?

I am assuming that the PCB's you have listed fit into the Enclocure(s) you have listed go with that build ? Yes I know thats a dumbass question but have to be sure.

Other than that I think I will be able to do the build(s) because I happen to have done some PCB repair and got 2 of the Helping Hands for PCB's and they do work great..also the step drill bits,fully adjustable soldering station with lots of new extra tips and the rest of the tools..


Any info on the 2 questions would be greatly appreciated !


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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 16, 2019 9:09pm 
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Supah Stah
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Joined: Wed, Sep 06, 2006 11:32am
Posts: 3685
Location: NJ
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riffermadness wrote:
vultures wrote:
First off this is a great post !! I am interested in building this/these pedals but I need to ask a few questions.
I see where you say to "read the build documents"..do these documents come with the PCB's ? If not where are they located ?

I am assuming that the PCB's you have listed fit into the Enclocure(s) you have listed go with that build ? Yes I know thats a dumbass question but have to be sure.

Other than that I think I will be able to do the build(s) because I happen to have done some PCB repair and got 2 of the Helping Hands for PCB's and they do work great..also the step drill bits,fully adjustable soldering station with lots of new extra tips and the rest of the tools..


Any info on the 2 questions would be greatly appreciated !


The build documents are normally on the web page where you buy the PCBs. They do not send them when they ship you the boards. I've edited the post above to include links and I will also have links here.

Chugga Pre: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... e-v1.0.pdf
3PDT: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.pdf

Triangulum: https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Triangulum.pdf
3PDT: https://www.pedalpcb.com/wp-content/upl ... 1/3PDT.png


On the enclosures: The 125B is a big enclosure and leaves you with more than enough room to fit all the components. The one I posted above is a 1590B and will be very tight. Here's a pic comparing the size of the 125B to a couple 1590Bs.. The PedalPCB Triangulum specifically says to use a 125B. The Rullywow Chugga Pre says to use a 1590B. They fit in both, but the 1590B is more challenging.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 17, 2019 12:34am 
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Joined: Thu, Oct 20, 2016 8:50pm
Posts: 486
Location: East Texas
Are you human?: 951
vultures wrote:
riffermadness wrote:
vultures wrote:
First off this is a great post !! I am interested in building this/these pedals but I need to ask a few questions.
I see where you say to "read the build documents"..do these documents come with the PCB's ? If not where are they located ?

I am assuming that the PCB's you have listed fit into the Enclocure(s) you have listed go with that build ? Yes I know thats a dumbass question but have to be sure.

Other than that I think I will be able to do the build(s) because I happen to have done some PCB repair and got 2 of the Helping Hands for PCB's and they do work great..also the step drill bits,fully adjustable soldering station with lots of new extra tips and the rest of the tools..


Any info on the 2 questions would be greatly appreciated !


The build documents are normally on the web page where you buy the PCBs. They do not send them when they ship you the boards. I've edited the post above to include links and I will also have links here.

Chugga Pre: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... e-v1.0.pdf
3PDT: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.pdf

Triangulum: https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Triangulum.pdf
3PDT: https://www.pedalpcb.com/wp-content/upl ... 1/3PDT.png


On the enclosures: The 125B is a big enclosure and leaves you with more than enough room to fit all the components. The one I posted above is a 1590B and will be very tight. Here's a pic comparing the size of the 125B to a couple 1590Bs.. The PedalPCB Triangulum specifically says to use a 125B. The Rullywow Chugga Pre says to use a 1590B. They fit in both, but the 1590B is more challenging.

Image

Thanks for the info. .I have wanted a 33 but can't afford the prices I have seen a few sell for+ doing it this way being cheaper in cost so if I build it and I don't like it or don’t use it much not as much $$$ involved..I am not even sure if my EVH 5150 3 50 watt head will even like it.


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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 17, 2019 7:38pm 
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Just a question for the op here.... appreciate your kind info and sharing here... as this particular has set my interest here.... as i looked thru and try to engage on electronic availability.... i was wonder how do you know C8 is ceramic 50V ratings ? And rest of the non polarized caps rating at 100V ?

I downloaded the schemetics and bills of materials it didnt list down the voltage ratings for non poplarized caps thou....


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 18, 2019 1:01am 
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Supah Stah
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Joined: Wed, Sep 06, 2006 11:32am
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hopkinWFG wrote:
Just a question for the op here.... appreciate your kind info and sharing here... as this particular has set my interest here.... as i looked thru and try to engage on electronic availability.... i was wonder how do you know C8 is ceramic 50V ratings ? And rest of the non polarized caps rating at 100V ?

I downloaded the schemetics and bills of materials it didnt list down the voltage ratings for non poplarized caps thou....


Ceramic capacitors are the most popular for the low capacitance rating (pF). It's difficult, although not impossible, to find film capacitors at those low ratings. I chose the MLCC 100pF because they're supposed to have better performance than a regular ceramic disk capacitor. The reason they are rated at 50v and 100v? They are the only ones on that website in that specific value, they just happen to be rated for 50v or 100v. They will still function fine.


If you'd really like to plug in all film, insane low tolerance, low voltage (40v) capacitors these might fit the bill. They're much more expensive and finding all the parts on Mouser is extremely tiring. I really wouldn't go any lower on voltage on these specific pedals.

100pF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... QHtA%3D%3D

47nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... uOVbSMQ%3D

4.7nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... 1gwq3q0%3D

22nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... D6M4GHk%3D

220nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... kjbA%3D%3D

_________________
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PRS Guitars
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Charvel Guitars
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Horizon Devices


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 18, 2019 2:33am 
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Plank Cranker

Joined: Tue, May 27, 2008 5:18am
Posts: 905
vultures wrote:
hopkinWFG wrote:
Just a question for the op here.... appreciate your kind info and sharing here... as this particular has set my interest here.... as i looked thru and try to engage on electronic availability.... i was wonder how do you know C8 is ceramic 50V ratings ? And rest of the non polarized caps rating at 100V ?

I downloaded the schemetics and bills of materials it didnt list down the voltage ratings for non poplarized caps thou....


Ceramic capacitors are the most popular for the low capacitance rating (pF). It's difficult, although not impossible, to find film capacitors at those low ratings. I chose the MLCC 100pF because they're supposed to have better performance than a regular ceramic disk capacitor. The reason they are rated at 50v and 100v? They are the only ones on that website in that specific value, they just happen to be rated for 50v or 100v. They will still function fine.


If you'd really like to plug in all film, insane low tolerance, low voltage (40v) capacitors these might fit the bill. They're much more expensive and finding all the parts on Mouser is extremely tiring. I really wouldn't go any lower on voltage on these specific pedals.

100pF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... QHtA%3D%3D

47nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... uOVbSMQ%3D

4.7nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... 1gwq3q0%3D

22nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... D6M4GHk%3D

220nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... kjbA%3D%3D



Thanks vultures i do roger that... just a probe indepth... i do know the schemetic says 25V or higher and 35V or higher ratings for polarized caps.... in anyway will it change tonally if i were to might as well get them at 40V for all polarized caps ?


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 18, 2019 7:25am 
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Posts: 1186
hopkinWFG wrote:
vultures wrote:
hopkinWFG wrote:
Just a question for the op here.... appreciate your kind info and sharing here... as this particular has set my interest here.... as i looked thru and try to engage on electronic availability.... i was wonder how do you know C8 is ceramic 50V ratings ? And rest of the non polarized caps rating at 100V ?

I downloaded the schemetics and bills of materials it didnt list down the voltage ratings for non poplarized caps thou....


Ceramic capacitors are the most popular for the low capacitance rating (pF). It's difficult, although not impossible, to find film capacitors at those low ratings. I chose the MLCC 100pF because they're supposed to have better performance than a regular ceramic disk capacitor. The reason they are rated at 50v and 100v? They are the only ones on that website in that specific value, they just happen to be rated for 50v or 100v. They will still function fine.


If you'd really like to plug in all film, insane low tolerance, low voltage (40v) capacitors these might fit the bill. They're much more expensive and finding all the parts on Mouser is extremely tiring. I really wouldn't go any lower on voltage on these specific pedals.

100pF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... QHtA%3D%3D

47nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... uOVbSMQ%3D

4.7nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... 1gwq3q0%3D

22nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... D6M4GHk%3D

220nF 5% 40v
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KE ... kjbA%3D%3D



Thanks vultures i do roger that... just a probe indepth... i do know the schemetic says 25V or higher and 35V or higher ratings for polarized caps.... in anyway will it change tonally if i were to might as well get them at 40V for all polarized caps ?


You can use larger values for voltages without any issues electronically, but usually the issue becomes if it will physically fit on the PCB. The higher the rating, the larger the capacitor, so you will reach a point where they just don't fit.


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 18, 2019 9:26am 
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Thanks again !! Well mind do any clips ?


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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 19, 2019 6:25am 
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Interesting... has anyone ever compared this to a Boss FA-1?

I've built clones of those in the past; really cool clean boost,tones of output (+26dB if I'm not mistaken), and by engaging the Low Cut and simultaneously boosting the Bass a bit, you get a really tight and punchy boost.

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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 19, 2019 7:26am 
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Speeddemon wrote:
Interesting... has anyone ever compared this to a Boss FA-1?

I've built clones of those in the past; really cool clean boost,tones of output (+26dB if I'm not mistaken), and by engaging the Low Cut and simultaneously boosting the Bass a bit, you get a really tight and punchy boost.


I built one of the byoc fa1 clones (has the same original op amp and fet as the original) and they’re similar in theory - both single op amp boost circuits followed by a baxandall eq, but that is about where the similarities end.

The FA1 distorts a lot easier (tc pre is clean), and the eq is different. Not as much cut or boost range on the FA1, and probably different center frequencies also.

I really like the FA1 on a clean channel to add a bit of grit, especially with single coils. But I didn’t find it anywhere near as useful as the tc preamp on heavy gain tones.


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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 19, 2019 3:17pm 
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Fortin is the only company to clone the TC Electronic integrated preamp?


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PostPosted: Wed, Mar 20, 2019 6:00am 
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mnemonic wrote:
The FA1 distorts a lot easier (tc pre is clean), and the eq is different. Not as much cut or boost range on the FA1, and probably different center frequencies also.

I really like the FA1 on a clean channel to add a bit of grit, especially with single coils. But I didn’t find it anywhere near as useful as the tc preamp on heavy gain tones.

Wouldn't the additional grit of the FA-1 (I find it quite a pleasing sound myself) help with heavy tones as well? I mean, an SD-1 or a TS9 (the usual suspects for boosting mid/highgainers) with gain at 0 isn't totally clean either.

Can you elaborate on what you prefer on the TC?

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Roland Jazz Chorus JC-55 combo & JC-120H head
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PostPosted: Wed, Mar 20, 2019 6:56am 
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Speeddemon wrote:
mnemonic wrote:
The FA1 distorts a lot easier (tc pre is clean), and the eq is different. Not as much cut or boost range on the FA1, and probably different center frequencies also.

I really like the FA1 on a clean channel to add a bit of grit, especially with single coils. But I didn’t find it anywhere near as useful as the tc preamp on heavy gain tones.

Wouldn't the additional grit of the FA-1 (I find it quite a pleasing sound myself) help with heavy tones as well? I mean, an SD-1 or a TS9 (the usual suspects for boosting mid/highgainers) with gain at 0 isn't totally clean either.

Can you elaborate on what you prefer on the TC?


Not saying it won’t work for high gain tones, I did try it out that way, but I thought it really shined for cleans, or low to mid gain boosting, where a TS or the TC worked better for me for high gain.

The clipping it introduces can be beneficial but it is different from the diode clipping you get from a TS pedal, as this is op amp clipping. It was also kinda noisy, but to be fair that’s probably down to the old out of production hitachi ha1457w op amp it uses. If you build one around a more modern and lower noise op amp like a 4558 or TL072, it will probably be a lot quieter (though the clipping will probably sound different).

This is just off memory as I haven’t used the fa1 clone in a high gain situation in like a year, but compared to the TC, it couldn’t cut as much bass or boost as much treble. I also liked how clean and clear the TC sounded, no clipping at all if you’ve got a high enough voltage power supply.

I remember thinking it was easier to get a ‘thick, sludgy’ tone with the FA1, where ‘tight, clear, punchy’ would be how I’d describe the TC with the usual settings.


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PostPosted: Wed, Mar 20, 2019 7:23am 
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Good info, thanks!

I did build my clones with the Hitachi opamps and I had to go above and beyond at the time to source these. Hell, I even provided AnalogMike some of my boards and op-amps, so he could build a few as well.
While I started out with a parts-perfect clone (carbonfilm resistors, greenie caps, and that specific tranny...246GR or something...I forgot) I did a few versions with metalfilm resistors as well. It did cut some noise, but to me, the circuit wasn't all that noisy to begin with (when supplied 9V from a properly filtered and isolated PSU).
As you said, it *did* have some almost magical thickening going on, especially in low-gain applications with Strats...but then again, so does a DOD 250, with level 10, Gain 0, and the silicium diodes replaced by 5mm green clearlense LEDs. The FA-1 is way more versatile with its EQ-ing...

I need to build me such a TC preamp too I guess. :rock:

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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 24, 2019 8:56pm 
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Thanks Vultures for all the information. Got all my parts Friday and just finished it a few hours ago. Very cool pedal, running mine with 9vdc PS, charge pump it putting out 18vdc. I got about $25-30 into it. I highly recommend the breakout board, keeps things really clean. Also, the Alpha pots I got from Tayda electronics have a plastic cap on the back of the pot. Helps keep the components on board from shorting out on the back of the pot.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 25, 2019 2:40am 
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bwgintegra wrote:
Thanks Vultures for all the information. Got all my parts Friday and just finished it a few hours ago. Very cool pedal, running mine with 9vdc PS, charge pump it putting out 18vdc. I got about $25-30 into it. I highly recommend the breakout board, keeps things really clean. Also, the Alpha pots I got from Tayda electronics have a plastic cap on the back of the pot. Helps keep the components on board from shorting out on the back of the pot.

Image



Wow ! Nice !! But what did you do to secure da pcb ? And mind to share the size of the enclosure ?


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 25, 2019 3:38am 
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Nice clean build, dude! :thumbsup:
And good to see another person using corrugated washers on the inside for the jacks, so that they don't stick out so much of the housing. I find that instantly makes a pedal look more amateur (with sticking out jacks).

Regarding the pot dustcovers:
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcomme ... lpha-pots/

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EVH 5150 III 50W + Mesa Boogie 2x12 Vertical Slant cab
Fender '74 Princeton Reverb (w/ Eminence Legend 105-8)
Marshall Lead 100 MOSFET + 1966A & 1966B cabs
Mesa Boogie Mark V:25 + Mesa 1x12 Thiele EVM cab
Roland Jazz Chorus JC-55 combo & JC-120H head
Axes:
Burny Les Paul (3x), Charvel So-Cal, Epiphone Wildkat, ESP Horizon NT-II, Fender '68 RI Strat, Gibson '67 RI Flying V, G&L ASAT Classic Tribute, Ibanez S540FM & Kramer SM-1 Guitars


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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 25, 2019 7:33am 
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hopkinWFG wrote:
bwgintegra wrote:
Thanks Vultures for all the information. Got all my parts Friday and just finished it a few hours ago. Very cool pedal, running mine with 9vdc PS, charge pump it putting out 18vdc. I got about $25-30 into it. I highly recommend the breakout board, keeps things really clean. Also, the Alpha pots I got from Tayda electronics have a plastic cap on the back of the pot. Helps keep the components on board from shorting out on the back of the pot.



Wow ! Nice !! But what did you do to secure da pcb ? And mind to share the size of the enclosure ?


The enclosure is a 125B style from Tayda. The PCB is secured by the solder joints of the three pots, didn't add any additional support.

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PostPosted: Tue, May 21, 2019 7:35pm 
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Marked for later, thank you !!!

Edit : any chance you’ve done the Grind pedal as well ?


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PostPosted: Wed, May 22, 2019 9:54am 
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I forgot about this thread. I guess once I got the VFE pedals I had no use for these pedals.

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PostPosted: Fri, May 24, 2019 6:54am 
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This is awesome. Of course, I can barely make a sandwich...much less a pedal.

BTW - Fortin started shipping these again (and are now out again). A buddy from work just got one last week.

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PostPosted: Fri, May 24, 2019 5:50pm 
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PeteLaramee wrote:
This is awesome. Of course, I can barely make a sandwich...much less a pedal.

BTW - Fortin started shipping these again (and are now out again). A buddy from work just got one last week.

I kept mine for a day before I sold it. It's okay, but not worth the $233 IMHO let olone the insane prices they where going for before the rerelease

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