UPDATE-1983 JCM 800 2203 gut shot- normal or modded?

tonesfoyobones

Well-known member
Picked this up locally. This one seems to have a lot of low end that gets outta hand rather quickly and gets flubby. On my previous JCM 800's I usually have to run the bass pretty high. Sometimes dimed. This one seems to be best suited for anything from 2-4. While preamp tube rolling it did not react well to high gain preamp tubes. It seems to like lower to medium gain the best. Most times in these I find the high gainer's work well.

My question is based upon my pics does anything appear to be modded or does it appear normal? I see a couple of capacitors along the ground line between the pots. Where they added after the fact or stock?

I appreciate your valued input guys!

UPDATE: First off thank you to everyone who chimed in! While not being a tech per say I knew that something just felt off with it and from the changes made we were correct.
With your observations and recommendations I ordered 6 ARS caps. I took them to a worthy tech and had them installed and the amp checked over. He too said the same thing about the caps that it came with that while they did work they did put too much strain on the screens and all in all it was a little stiffer. He advised me that there might not be a huge difference tonally but we both agreed to change the caps out. He did the job quickly and I picked it up the following day. ( 8 hour road trip in total over two days. I'll get into why I went to him a little later )
The thing that he initially noticed there was a slight increase in volume. I couldn't tell because I ran a SD-1 in front and didn't crank the master volume much. He on the other hand plays without pedals so he cranks them pretty loud. He's a young guy, eclectic but an old soul. I was stoked to get it home to give it a go.
I got it home and put all the settings back to where I had it prior so that I could get a fair and accurate comparison. Wow it did the trick! The issue that I had with the flubby over excessive bass was gone. Now I had a usable sweep on the pot. The bass now felt right. Even the gain taper was more even across the sweep as well. As he mentioned there was not a huge tonal difference. Slightly but not night and day. The biggest difference was in the feel. There is a way better relationship between the fingers on the fret board and the amp. These are differences that I would not have noticed in my earlier playing days and some may not have noticed it either and thought that it was all in my head lol. In the end it now feels and sounds like what it should, a proper '83 JCM 800 2203!

Again I thank everyone's valued input and for taking the time to chime in. Sorry for the bloated follow up but I wanted to share my experience in the case that somebody else down the road has a similar issue.

Thanks RT!

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Trble peaker and bright cap between the input jack and preamp pot both appear factory, as does the presence circuit; but there are more qualified folks here to confirm it
 
Looks bone stock to me other than a cap across the gain pot to adjust the taper/character. I can’t see anything else changed top side, but there could be changes under the board we can’t see.

I’d say the increased low end could be bias related - possibly biased cold.

Can you take a picture of the impedance selector up close? I want to see what tap is being used to make sure that’s stock.
 
I did check the bias and it was cold. 26mA according to my Bias Rite. I took it to 65% @ 34.5 mA's. Voltage was 470. It did help alot but I still feel like there is to much bass compared to others I've had. The caps have been changed and I'm pretty sure the power tubes where where new as well. I know the tech who did the work and he's great with these.
Thanks for your time!

Impedance pics

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The only thing that’s doesn’t appear stock to me is the input wire. There’s typically a 68k input resistor on the board. Signal goes through the PCB trace to a hot shielded wire to the v1a grid.

The solder joint on the gain pot wiper looks messed with so it’s possible it was changed. Not a bad thing. The hot shield only makes the amp more bassy. But I also don’t see any obvious signs that there was a resistor where there typical would be one on the PCB. You’d typically see heat marks etc…if it was removed.

A simple fix if the amp is too bassy is to put a .0022 uF cap in series with the first stage coupling cap. You can break the connection to the jack as shown in the attached photo and install the cap here. This will tighten the bass a good amount and it’s easily reversible. 5 minute mod.
 

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The only thing that’s doesn’t appear stock to me is the input wire. There’s typically a 68k input resistor on the board. Signal goes through the PCB trace to a hot shielded wire to the v1a grid.

The solder joint on the gain pot wiper looks messed with so it’s possible it was changed. Not a bad thing. The hot shield only makes the amp more bassy. But I also don’t see any obvious signs that there was a resistor where there typical would be one on the PCB. You’d typically see heat marks etc…if it was removed.

A simple fix if the amp is too bassy is to put a .0022 uF cap in series with the first stage coupling cap. You can break the connection to the jack as shown in the attached photo and install the cap here. This will tighten the bass a good amount and it’s easily reversible. 5 minute mod.

68k is mounted flying lead style agreed.

Gain pot solder looks to be tampered. Right value but that isn’t a stock cap for an 83.

Amp looks really really clean. Killer score. I second the 0.0022uF cap in series idea to cut some bass on the input.
 
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68k is mounted flying lead style and hot shield mounted from what I can tell.

Gain pot solder looks to be tampered. Right value but that isn’t a stock cap for an 83.

Amp looks really really clean. Killer score. I second the 0.0022uF cap in series idea to cut some bass on the input.

Good catch on the cap. Looks like a modern Vishay 562 series.
 
Thank you guys for checking it over. My question is what can I do to have it stock? I would like to back how it should be so that I can hear how it was intended to be heard.

Or are the seen changes minimal and not worth changing?
 
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Where are y'all seeing hot shield? Looks like that 68k is just mounted at the socket as a grid stopper. I don't see a hot shield though.
 
Where are y'all seeing hot shield? Looks like that 68k is just mounted at the socket as a grid stopper. I don't see a hot shield though.
Yeah agreed. I’m not seeing a hot shield after looking closer.

Is the 4.7k resistor on the presence shorting out to the back of the pot?
 
What about the can caps, aren’t the typical 3 terminal style 50uf+50uf with one negative and multiple sections? These look to just have one positive and negative. Just thinking out loud on this one.
 
It is stock for all intents and purposes. Even if that input is changed back, it isn't going to make much difference. It will in fact sound worse and more flubby with the stock hot shield. The cap being a more modern ceramic isn't going to change much either. I'm assuming it's the stock 1nF value. If it isn't then I'd change that back to stock value. I can't read the value in photo.
 
What about the can caps, aren’t the typical 3 terminal style 50uf+50uf with one negative and multiple sections? These look to just have one positive and negative. Just thinking out loud on this one.
Yep your right. These are one positive and one negative rather than the typical dual can. Maybe these are 100uF single cans vs a paralleled 50uF dual can. They really should be dual cans as the voltage stability increases when done that way.

What's the value of the cans? And voltage ratings?
 
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