good to see you around too brotahtoes!
oh man-sucky about health dings-sorry to hear. and cold crowded surf. GONG! i had to have surfer ear surgery from decades of cold cali water but the warm salty oahu water has been great.
but yeah i’ve been back home on oahu for a while now and just loving surfing and boogie boarding every chance i get! gtr takes a backseat when you are a surfer living in the epicenter of surfing!
i’m a local/unko at 4 of the best spots around the island (except Pipe/north shore scares me) but brah the barrels i score are real fun.
here’s a couple nuggies i got on the sponge at Sandy Beach
aloha!