Need larger radius saddles for OFR - Help!

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Fusionbear

Fusionbear

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Hey guys, I need a legit website where I can buy replacement saddles for my OFR on my star guitar. Some of the websites seem pretty sketchy. I know some of you have replaced your saddles. Can you point me in the right direction?

The problem it my neck has 9.5" to 14" inch radius and the OFR has a 10" saddle radius. a 16" saddle set would even it out properly. Im not opposed to other metals such as SS or Ti.

Thanks in advance!
 
Fusionbear said:
The problem it my neck has 9.5" to 14" inch radius and the OFR has a 10" saddle radius. a 16" saddle set would even it out properly. Im not opposed to other metals such as SS or Ti.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

If you simply remove the solid center shim from under your OFR 2-5 saddles, then it is instantly a 12" radius bridge.
IMO that is plenty close enough to never need modding.
 
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dave74 said:
If you simply remove the solid center shim from under your OFR 2-5 saddles, then it is instantly a 12" radius bridge.
IMO that is plenty close enough to never need modding.
Click to expand...

No shims in my OFR....
 
Have you pulled the saddles up to see? The stock shim does not go around the saddle/intonation adjustment screw like aftermarket shims do, so you don't see the stock shim from the front nor outside of the saddles. It is basically hidden.

You can see the stock shim through the hole where the little square lock-blocks sit. You will see the silver at the bottom of those holes under the 2nd-5th saddles, and you'll see nothing/black under the 1st and 6th saddles.

If there is no stock shim then it is already 12" radius.

You can only see the stock shim through the lock-block holes when you are changing strings and the lock-block screws are retracted.
 
I just bought a R2 12" radius nut and 16" saddles for one of my Floyds from Schaller in Germany. Floyd doesn't offer nuts with different radii yet and the only radius saddles they have are $125. With shipping and including currency conversion you can get a set to your door from Schaller for $95.

https://schaller.info/en/lockmeiste...of-6-saddles-for-strings-e-a-d-g-h-und-e/2006

Edit: Create an account, the prices shown will be lower by several dollars.
 
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dave74 said:
Have you pulled the saddles up to see? The stock shim does not go around the saddle/intonation adjustment screw like aftermarket shims do, so you don't see the stock shim from the front nor outside of the saddles. It is basically hidden.

You can see the stock shim through the hole where the little square lock-blocks sit. You will see the silver at the bottom of those holes under the 2nd-5th saddles, and you'll see nothing/black under the 1st and 6th saddles.

If there is no stock shim then it is already 12" radius.

You can only see the stock shim through the lock-block holes when you are changing strings and the lock-block screws are retracted.
Click to expand...

I disassembled and removed the saddles. No shims....

It's probably 12" then. But it doesn't allow more even string height on the fretboard, unfortunately...

I ordered the 16" set and that will give me what I am used to, like on my Suhr Modern...
 
Liam said:
I just bought a R2 12" radius nut and 16" saddles for one of my Floyds from Schaller in Germany. Floyd doesn't offer nuts with different radii yet and the only radius saddles they have are $125. With shipping and including currency conversion you can get a set to your door from Schaller for $95.

https://schaller.info/en/lockmeiste...of-6-saddles-for-strings-e-a-d-g-h-und-e/2006

Edit: Create an account, the prices shown will be lower by several dollars.
Click to expand...
Great info - thank you for posting! Up until now, I have managed to flatten the radius on my Floyd equipped guitars using a combo of Low/Medium saddles and those nice individual metal saddle shims from Allparts. I use 'stock' E-string saddles for the low and high E strings, Another pair of E-string saddles plus one shim for the A/B strings, and then a pair of what would be A/B string saddles for the D and G strings. That gets you pretty darned close. But a dedicated set of 16" radius saddles from Schaller is clearly the way to go.
 
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Got the 16" saddles. Much, much better. The action is now even on all strings....

Behold!

20241114_093859~2.jpg
 
I recently bought 2 sets of Ti saddles form my OFRs from this ebay dealer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256644595525

Specifically because I wanted the 16" radius saddles without using any shims. The shims were fine, but a little bit of a tone suck I felt. Maybe user error idk. But these 16" radius saddles ring out true without any weirdness.
 
rushcentrale said:
I recently bought 2 sets of Ti saddles form my OFRs from this ebay dealer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256644595525

Specifically because I wanted the 16" radius saddles without using any shims. The shims were fine, but a little bit of a tone suck I felt. Maybe user error idk. But these 16" radius saddles ring out true without any weirdness.
Click to expand...

What difference in tone do you notice if any, with the Ti saddles vs. Stock?
 
Fusionbear said:
What difference in tone do you notice if any, with the Ti saddles vs. Stock?
Click to expand...
I can speak on that difference regarding the tiny saddle inserts that lock the strings in place.
Ti = more mids, highs, liveliness and sustain. Plus they won't crack!
Stock (steel?) = more beef and low mids than Ti.
Brass = fuller low end than both steel and Ti plus a very strong peak in the upper mids. Slight high end roll off which rounds and warms the tone. Yet still livelier than stock steel.
I think those traits will carry over to the saddles themselves.

I can see the stock steel or brass being a better match for a thin sounding bolt on super strat though.
 
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thegame said:
I can speak on that difference regarding the tiny saddle inserts that lock the strings in place.
Ti = more mids, highs, liveliness and sustain. Plus they won't crack!
Stock (steel?) = more beef and low mids than Ti.
Brass = fuller low end than both steel and Ti plus a very strong peak in the upper mids. Slight high end roll off which rounds and warms the tone. Yet still livelier than stock steel.
I think those traits will carry over to the saddles themselves.

I can see the stock steel or brass being a better match for a thin sounding bolt on super strat though.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with this take on Steel vs Ti, but not a crazy difference. More on the subtle side.
 
thegame said:
I can speak on that difference regarding the tiny saddle inserts that lock the strings in place.
Ti = more mids, highs, liveliness and sustain. Plus they won't crack!
Stock (steel?) = more beef and low mids than Ti.
Brass = fuller low end than both steel and Ti plus a very strong peak in the upper mids. Slight high end roll off which rounds and warms the tone. Yet still livelier than stock steel.
I think those traits will carry over to the saddles themselves.

I can see the stock steel or brass being a better match for a thin sounding bolt on super strat though.
Click to expand...
Are you referring to a brass sustain block in this comparison? I don't think you can buy string lock insert blocks made of brass. Brass would be too soft to confidently hold the string under tension against the inner saddle wall.

Edit: Check that. I just saw Fu tone offers them. Pricey, I'll pass. I wonder how they hold up. Your opinion of the brass seems to follow mine in regards to a brass sustain block. I bought one and had it on a Floyd for a day, maybe a couple. That's all it took for me to not like or want to get used to the tonal change from the og FR block. I probably wouldn't be happy with brass insert blocks either. I use TI for the insert blocks.
 
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Liam said:
Are you referring to a brass sustain block in this comparison? I don't think you can buy string lock insert blocks made of brass. Brass would be too soft to confidently hold the string under tension against the inner saddle wall.
Click to expand...
Like I said at the top, the insert blocks. My brass ones have been holding up and holding in tune just fine for about 3 years now.
 
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