Headfirst Alta: One month later. Spoiler I still love it!

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MadAsAHatter

MadAsAHatter

Well-known member
With Jason starting up a 2nd Australian run now and a US run in the 2nd quarter (I think) I've been getting a few questions of how I'm liking everything so far. So I figured I go ahead and do a one month update post.

The newness is starting to wear off, but I still love this amp just as much as I did on day one. Really, I love it even more than on day one now that I've become familiar with it and settled into my preferred settings. First off I'll start by saying that my initial impressions still hold up. You can read them here:

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/threads/nad-it-has-arrived-headfirst-alta-100.259864/
I've been playing it primarily through my 212/115 cab loaded with 2 12" Weber Grey Wolfs and a 15" Weber Alnico Blue Dog. For reference the Grey Wolf is like a mix of a V30 & CL80 and the Blue Dog would be similar to a Celestion Blue with extended lows. All together it's midrange punch, Voxey sparkle and extended low end.

As far as Marshall tones go, there's not much the Alta can't cover. It does cleans to high gain and everything in between.

Ch 1 covers the cleans to dirt and can be pushed into AC/DC style saturation. While you do get the saturation, I feel it is pushing that channel close the max so it may not have the feel you'd want. For me it's better to keep Ch 1 in the edge of breakup to moderate dirt area and let Ch 2 take it from there into the classic rock territory.

Ch 2 and 3 catch everything else. Both Ch 2 & 3 have similar amounts of saturation so there is overlap. Ch 2 stars off with less gain and Ch 3 can be pushed further into higher gain. I've set mine for Ch 2 to cover lower gain rock and Ch 3 for high gain metal. I've set the gain on both channels to just shy of 3 o'clock. From there I can switch between vintage and modern voicing depending on my mood and what I'm playing.

With that general setup on Ch 2 I'll use vintage voicing for the 60's to 70's classic rock and jump it into modern voicing for hard rock. Ch 3 is the same concept but vintage voicing hits classic and 80's thrash metal and modern voicing covers anything past that. In any setting I use Bright 1 & 2 to taste and use the diode clip + MV2 if I want an extra push. As far as EQ goes, everything sound pretty much how it needs to with all knobs at noon. EQ adjustments are about aligning the tone with the speakers and room acoustics more than trying to dial in a good sound. For me. bass is set to @ 11 o'clock, mid at noon, and treble a @ 1 o'clock. Depth, Presence, and response are pretty much the same way but for the power section. Set them to taste. All three knobs do interact together. It's all well balanced with knobs set a noon. But if you dial up the response you may way to dial back the presence a little. Same thing with depth. Dial the response down and you may want to back off on the depth.

A note on the response knob... It controls the negative feedback loop and has a big impact on sound and feel. Noon is a good balance that for me that works well across the board. Dial it back and you get a smoother, darker response. I won't say it becomes overly polite. Let's just say it becomes courteous, but you still know there's a beast lurking under the surface. Dial the response up and you start letting that beast loose. It becomes brighter and has a good feeling aggressive bite. Like I mentioned, noon is a good spot for me. My analogy is like letting the Rottweiler snarl, bark and scare the shit out of everyone, but you still have him on a leash 100% under control. Lower the response you're tightening up the leash; up the response and you're giving that leash more slack.

As for negative aspects of the Alta, I'm hard pressed for any. I'm not a fan of knobs being on the rear panel. MV1, MV2 and response are on the back. My home setup makes them harder to get to if I want to make adjustments, but that's nitpicking. In reality I've set them where they work for me and don't really need to touch them again anyway. The only other thing I can note is there's the slightest pause switching between vintage and modern voicing. It's not 100% seamless, more like 98-99% seamless; similar to when you click on/off a stomp box and nothing that's going to interrupt your flow playing. And for me it's 100% inconsequential and doesn't ever come up because I'm not changing voicing mid riff.

Lastly, I want to mention the build quality. I finally popped the chassis out the shell this past weekend to take a look inside. Jason already said it was a PCB so no surprise there. I know some people can get all uppity about that though, especially when the tube sockets are direct mount. Let me say that the board is of highest quality; thick and sturdy. It's not going to cave in or snap changing tubes. It's not a rat's nest of ribbon cables either. It's all quality resistors, capacitors, et. all other components laid out in a well organized manner. It's just like you'd see in any other high quality hand wired amp, just on a PCB instead of turret board. I also need to mention how tidy all the solder joints and wire runs are done. Perfect solder joints, wire leads are only as long as they need to be, and again everything is tidy and well organized. I'm not sure which parts Jason did and where Shea picked up. Either way they both did a phenomenal job on the build quality.

I did take a couple of quick pictures of the board, but I'm not going to post them yet. It's not my circuit design so I don't want to put pictures of others' work on the web all willy-nilly without their permission. If @burger is okay with letting everyone have a glimpse of the insides it I'll post them.

Before I wrap up one last little teaser for everyone. Shea contacted me the other week that he's starting another run of Skeleton Key's and I've put my deposit down. I'm looking forward to putting the Alta and Skeleton Key side by side to see how they compare. I have a feeling it's going to be a battle of heavyweights. Like Tyson vs Holyfield back in the day. Let's just hope when it goes down no one loses an ear LOL!

So overall I'm still loving the Alta and it's up at the top of my list of favorite amps; right along side my Naylor Superdrive and Mesa Mark III. In the long run it's one of those you can bury it with me when I die amps. It's extremely versatile and can cover most any Marshall type tone you'd want. It is a bit of an investment dollar wise, but I whole-heartedly feel it is worth every single cent.
 
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Thanks for taking to time to write this all up - personally I really appreciate the feedback and take everything on board when thinking about the future of Headfirst.

I should point out that you can user configure the mute circuit for channel/option switching. If you send a MIDI Change Control message 105, you can set the mute time in ms.
E.g.
CC 105 40, set it to 40ms
CC 105 0, set to 0ms i.e. turns it off completely

There is some complex switching going on in the amp the makes the mute circuit necessary - no 'thud' or 'pop' through your cab.
Say 30ms might be your sweetspot. Fast enough not to notice, but enough to do it's job.

Construction wise, other than Wizard, I can't think of any high gain switching amps that are not PCB based?
We are shipping hand stuffed and soldered boards to the US, where Shea then hand wires them into our custom chassis, pots, jacks, custom Heyboer transformers etc. His work is impeccable. Kinda the reverse happens for the Aussia amps, Shea ships out to me our US made headshells and Heyboer transformers and we complete the hand wiring here for the local market. The amps are identical in every regard.

Great news on your Skeleton Key, although Shea and I consider ourselves on the same team! haha

Jason
 
Thanks for taking to time to write this all up - personally I really appreciate the feedback and take everything on board when thinking about the future of Headfirst.

I should point out that you can user configure the mute circuit for channel/option switching. If you send a MIDI Change Control message 105, you can set the mute time in ms.
E.g.
CC 105 40, set it to 40ms
CC 105 0, set to 0ms i.e. turns it off completely

There is some complex switching going on in the amp the makes the mute circuit necessary - no 'thud' or 'pop' through your cab.
Say 30ms might be your sweetspot. Fast enough not to notice, but enough to do it's job.

Construction wise, other than Wizard, I can't think of any high gain switching amps that are not PCB based?
We are shipping hand stuffed and soldered boards to the US, where Shea then hand wires them into our custom chassis, pots, jacks, custom Heyboer transformers etc. His work is impeccable. Kinda the reverse happens for the Aussia amps, Shea ships out to me our US made headshells and Heyboer transformers and we complete the hand wiring here for the local market. The amps are identical in every regard.

Great news on your Skeleton Key, although Shea and I consider ourselves on the same team! haha

Jason

I’m wrapping up an aldrich gain level switching setup that isn’t PCB right now and the challenges to make that happen are never ending with regards to grounds, shielded coax, and relay mounting. At this level of the game it really should just be a PCB for stability reasons alone. Anyone knocking a PCB design that’s overengineered won’t get to enjoy the benefits.

Larry does PTP relay switching in his stuff as well.
 
Thanks for taking to time to write this all up - personally I really appreciate the feedback and take everything on board when thinking about the future of Headfirst.

I should point out that you can user configure the mute circuit for channel/option switching. If you send a MIDI Change Control message 105, you can set the mute time in ms.
E.g.
CC 105 40, set it to 40ms
CC 105 0, set to 0ms i.e. turns it off completely

There is some complex switching going on in the amp the makes the mute circuit necessary - no 'thud' or 'pop' through your cab.
Say 30ms might be your sweetspot. Fast enough not to notice, but enough to do it's job.

Construction wise, other than Wizard, I can't think of any high gain switching amps that are not PCB based?
We are shipping hand stuffed and soldered boards to the US, where Shea then hand wires them into our custom chassis, pots, jacks, custom Heyboer transformers etc. His work is impeccable. Kinda the reverse happens for the Aussia amps, Shea ships out to me our US made headshells and Heyboer transformers and we complete the hand wiring here for the local market. The amps are identical in every regard.

Great news on your Skeleton Key, although Shea and I consider ourselves on the same team! haha

Jason

Now that you mention it I remember you talking about the mute for switching functions and adding that in so there wouldn't be a pop or other noise coming from the cab. I didn't realize it was user configurable though. That's good for those who are super anal about stuff like that. For me it's perfectly fine where it's set at stock.

Truthfully, I only initially noticed it because I had everything cranked and didn't grab my strings to stop them from ringing when I switched voicing. Even then I wasn't 100% sure I heard a pause. I have to be focused in on listening for it to actually notice the mute and I can just barely catch it only when switching voicing. Channel switching and all other functions, even when trying to listen for a mute I can't detect one; 100% seamless transition. And in typical playing I can't pick up on the mute at all switching voicing.

Personally, I see nothing detrimental about using PCB over turret board. I know some people/purists can get on their high horse about hand-wired, but I also think they're incapable of understanding that a PCB can be hand-wired too. I guess I can somewhat understand an aversion to PCB when all you've seen is cheap, flimsy, low quality boards coming out of China. But let's face it, when it's this caliber and quality of amps we're talking about a builder is not going to cheap out on the PCB. As @glpg80 alluded, at this stage of the game why would you want anything other than PCB when you're working with that level of complexity. It seems to me that PCB would be the superior option over turret board if only for ease of keeping track of the circuit.

I know several of you guys here work together and help each other out. It's good to see a thriving community of builders. In a way it feels like everyone is creating different models under a common banner. Collaborations just become the next logical step. With you and Shea instead of Tyson vs. Holyfield it's more like...
shake-and-bake-ricky-bobby.gif
 
Thanks for taking to time to write this all up - personally I really appreciate the feedback and take everything on board when thinking about the future of Headfirst.

I should point out that you can user configure the mute circuit for channel/option switching. If you send a MIDI Change Control message 105, you can set the mute time in ms.
E.g.
CC 105 40, set it to 40ms
CC 105 0, set to 0ms i.e. turns it off completely

There is some complex switching going on in the amp the makes the mute circuit necessary - no 'thud' or 'pop' through your cab.
Say 30ms might be your sweetspot. Fast enough not to notice, but enough to do it's job.

Construction wise, other than Wizard, I can't think of any high gain switching amps that are not PCB based?
We are shipping hand stuffed and soldered boards to the US, where Shea then hand wires them into our custom chassis, pots, jacks, custom Heyboer transformers etc. His work is impeccable. Kinda the reverse happens for the Aussia amps, Shea ships out to me our US made headshells and Heyboer transformers and we complete the hand wiring here for the local market. The amps are identical in every regard.

Great news on your Skeleton Key, although Shea and I consider ourselves on the same team! haha

Jason
Even the simpler amp builds, I prefer a pcb. The amps I've built using your st1 build have sounded great. I built my last 2204 with a turret board and it's up and running but I'm super tempted to pull the board out and redo it with a pcb. When I see turret board used as a selling point I'm not sure what the benefit would be. Then again I've been fortunate enough that all the pcbs I've used have been great quality.
 
Even the simpler amp builds, I prefer a pcb. The amps I've built using your st1 build have sounded great. I built my last 2204 with a turret board and it's up and running but I'm super tempted to pull the board out and redo it with a pcb. When I see turret board used as a selling point I'm not sure what the benefit would be. Then again I've been fortunate enough that all the pcbs I've used have been great quality.

The advantage is easier upkeep when modding because the solder traces aren’t on the bottom which require flipping a PCB. You also can’t lift traces PTP. A high quality PCB is great but I would almost prefer vertically mounted PCBs like the military uses to save space and allow airflow. Looks like total dog shit inside but it’s functional and easy to maintain like PTP. No one does that but when I go PCB, my shit will be mounted vertically, not flat.
 
Even the simpler amp builds, I prefer a pcb. The amps I've built using your st1 build have sounded great. I built my last 2204 with a turret board and it's up and running but I'm super tempted to pull the board out and redo it with a pcb. When I see turret board used as a selling point I'm not sure what the benefit would be. Then again I've been fortunate enough that all the pcbs I've used have been great quality.
Turret is good when you want to rewire, tinker and mod as PCBs are kinda set. Anyone who’s watched my mod videos will know that half the battle is figuring out how to work around a’fixed’ PCB when implementing a mod. However a well designed PCB will deliver a quieter, more stable amp no question….and a well designed amp shouldn’t need to be modded :)
 
Turret is good when you want to rewire, tinker and mod as PCBs are kinda set. Anyone who’s watched my mod videos will know that half the battle is figuring out how to work around a’fixed’ PCB when implementing a mod. However a well designed PCB will deliver a quieter, more stable amp no question….and a well designed amp shouldn’t need to be modded :)
+1 to all of this.

Unless you hate yourself and develop on a PCB like I did ?

Care has to be taken not only for physical safe implementation of your mods, but also care about electric field magnitudes next to components or just after the shielding ends on a coax line. It doesn’t take much to make an unstable amp when you really start cranking up the gain.
 
+1 to all of this.

Unless you hate yourself and develop on a PCB like I did ?

Care has to be taken not only for physical safe implementation of your mods, but also care about electric field magnitudes next to components or just after the shielding ends on a coax line. It doesn’t take much to make an unstable amp when you really start cranking up the gain.
hahaha. Guilty. I won't say how many revisions the Alta took..
 
hahaha. Guilty. I won't say how many revisions the Alta took..
I probably still have you beat. I think this enmity mod is hundreds of revisions over the course of 3 years and two complete gut and start overs with PTP relay boards that were too noisy. Jeremy at one point begged me to reach out to you for a PCB but I didn’t want to trouble you since covid has our component access right now in a total mess.

Still yours is way more complicated with MIDI.

I do want to talk to you about a cool rack design utilizing a few various pieces of your boards.
 
Thanks for taking to time to write this all up - personally I really appreciate the feedback and take everything on board when thinking about the future of Headfirst.

I should point out that you can user configure the mute circuit for channel/option switching. If you send a MIDI Change Control message 105, you can set the mute time in ms.
E.g.
CC 105 40, set it to 40ms
CC 105 0, set to 0ms i.e. turns it off completely

There is some complex switching going on in the amp the makes the mute circuit necessary - no 'thud' or 'pop' through your cab.
Say 30ms might be your sweetspot. Fast enough not to notice, but enough to do it's job.

Construction wise, other than Wizard, I can't think of any high gain switching amps that are not PCB based?
We are shipping hand stuffed and soldered boards to the US, where Shea then hand wires them into our custom chassis, pots, jacks, custom Heyboer transformers etc. His work is impeccable. Kinda the reverse happens for the Aussia amps, Shea ships out to me our US made headshells and Heyboer transformers and we complete the hand wiring here for the local market. The amps are identical in every regard.

Great news on your Skeleton Key, although Shea and I consider ourselves on the same team! haha

Jason
Is there any plan to sell it in the EU market Jason?
 
+1 to all of this.

Unless you hate yourself and develop on a PCB like I did ?

Care has to be taken not only for physical safe implementation of your mods, but also care about electric field magnitudes next to components or just after the shielding ends on a coax line. It doesn’t take much to make an unstable amp when you really start cranking up the gain.
I did the JEL mod to a 2204 that I built using Jason's ST1 board. I ended up selling that amp when I got a Quad Cortex. I wish I would have kept it cause it sounded great. I ended up removing the JEL mods and had no issues. But looking at other builds with PCB's I definitely see where the headache comes in. Probably the main reason I haven't tried to mod an Origin yet.

I'm getting ready to build an amp for a buddy using the custom chassis I got from Nik with the rocker switches, iec with the mains fuse, and no half power switch. I'm going to use Jason's fet boost, st1 board, and effects loop. I'm so tempted just to give the guy my current 2204 and keep the newer build .

One thing that learning how to build amps has taught me is one, I don't want to do it commercially and two my respect for guys that do has went up tremendously.
 
Thank you so much Hatter, for taking the time to further review this beast.
Very kind of you and appreciated!?
 
Is there any plan to sell it in the EU market Jason?
Well, I can ship a single amp there no problem. We are however a ways off having any kind of formal distribution arrangement.
 
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