Any techs/builders with a LAney AOR 6 knob MV schematic???

[glpg80]

The 100 watt amp uses a center tapped winding for B+, the 50 watt does not so they can't be wired the same.
Jerry

Didn't cross your mind the OT was center tapped? It's a push/pull circuit, they all are, they have to be. We were talking about the PT. O and P are next to each other and it could certainly be a simple mistake, but you need to read your posts before you hit enter if you are going to send someone into an amp with 400-500 volts at their finger tips.
Jerry

The secondary of PT in the schematic i have posted for the 100W is not center tapped Jerry. Only the OT i see is center tapped which would have to be just as you seem to idiotically point out - no one said anything about the 50W being class A/B hence confusion of which transformer you're even speaking of. It is a simple a full wave bridge rectifier. This is electronics 101.

Getting hurt has more to do with safety precautions than throwing the warnings on every single post on the internet for the sake of warding off troubleshooting. Once again the person who builds the amplifier should know common troubleshooting techniques before even turning it on.

 

[glpg80]

Do you have volume or is the overall volume output of the amp low?
Is it always buzzy like a fuzz box with no clean no matter the settings?
If you have good volume and it will clean up I would look at where things are grounded.
Jerry

Overall output of the amp is low, i can back off the gain to clean it up but it gets pretty splatty and fuzzy bit past noon on preamp dial.

The low input remains relatively clean as it should but also suffers from low volume.

So really the issue is overall low volume (even with master cranked) and ugly distortion.

output tubes are new and bias correctly at around 43 mA (6CA7).

I checked for continuity for all my grounds too and it all checked out. I suppose a cold solder joint on a ground could be an issue as well.

So just to clarify, are you guys saying that a choke's(essentially acting somewhat like a resistor from my understanding) leads do NOT matter? Some chokes have two black leads for example.. mine has a red/black as per the schematic and i have them swapped in my build vs where they are indicated as going on the schematic.

A choke is nothing but an inductor - direction is irrelevant. If it makes you feel any better swamp them but it will not make a difference. If the output section is correct and you verified the bias circuitry is working correctly then i would work from the guitar input forwards and verify you have each preamp stage properly biased and the voltage dividers between each stage their correct values.

 

[glpg80]

I have seen you shoot from the hip with more incorrect information all across the web than anyone else in the world!

I just caught this message. I have heard more shitty practices in your amplifier circuits than ever before. You believe watching a few lee Jackson videos and reading a few books makes you an automatic expert. Unused tube stages not properly grounded and shotty wiring practices. I just dont publically slam your business because i have better things to do. You're entitled to your opinion just as i am entitled to mine but before you point fingers at someone else you had better make sure your hands are clean yourself.

 

[Anonymous]

wow.

this got weird fast.

Kapo, i'd say honestly, you're on the wrong forum for asking tech questions like this....most of the guys on here that run a business aren't (understandably) in the practice of tech walk-thru's for various reasons, as im sure you've seen.

other guys, well, they just have info, and put it out there (including myself) for the sake of sharing....no matter how well versed or ill advised.

id' say, if you're going to dig for this one, the metro forum or the laney forum is where to go....

i've watched Jerry and Glp argue for 2 years now...and while entertaining, it kind of derails a thread here and there. btw, both have attempted to help me in my own quests privately (hint).

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Good point yeti... I have hoped for few years now that we could get a tech help section going here because i like this forum the best. I guess it wasn't the best place for this so I might have to explore elsewhere. I do appreciate everyone's tips though. I've gone through the amp up and down this evening and i am stumped. Prob need a scope. That or for shits and giggles I feel like putting the old board back in and seeing what happens.

 

[chumbucket]

If anyone else is looking, here's the old school jcm800 clone: http://forum.metroamp.com/download/file ... 0f420d0c12 (which really doesn't sound as good as a JCM800)

The original ones didn't have any push pulls on the tone controls at all. They were JCM800 knockoffs. That's why they cooked up the active tone circuit. They were threatened by Marshall's lawyers and had to change it at least that's the way that I heard the story.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Is that your amp in the pic? How about a gut shot.. interested in how it looks without the push/pull boosts.

 

[Anonymous]

put the pcb back in.

if it's working right, start making comparisons.

my guess is you missed something obvious....it happens!

 

[chumbucket]

Is that your amp in the pic? How about a gut shot.. interested in how it looks without the push/pull boosts.

Not mine.

 

[bravedude2]

didn't someone here have that in the signature near their avatar? " i'd gladly pay a tech to take a zap for me? just saying.

 

[bravedude2]

btw. sweet laney

 

[JerryP]

Do you have volume or is the overall volume output of the amp low?
Is it always buzzy like a fuzz box with no clean no matter the settings?
If you have good volume and it will clean up I would look at where things are grounded.
Jerry

Overall output of the amp is low, i can back off the gain to clean it up but it gets pretty splatty and fuzzy bit past noon on preamp dial.

The low input remains relatively clean as it should but also suffers from low volume.

So really the issue is overall low volume (even with master cranked) and ugly distortion.

output tubes are new and bias correctly at around 43 mA (6CA7).

I checked for continuity for all my grounds too and it all checked out. I suppose a cold solder joint on a ground could be an issue as well.

So just to clarify, are you guys saying that a choke's(essentially acting somewhat like a resistor from my understanding) leads do NOT matter? Some chokes have two black leads for example.. mine has a red/black as per the schematic and i have them swapped in my build vs where they are indicated as going on the schematic.

Low fuzzy output is one sign of a shorted output transformer. Did it work fine before the PTP board went in?

With grounds causing a hum/buzz it's not a matter of them not being connected, but being connected in the wrong places.

You've probably done it already, but slowly go thru every part in the schematic and confirm your work is correct.

Does the amp have the preamp out/power amp in jacks? Plug into the power amp in jack and see if you get your volume back.
Jerry

 

[JerryP]

I have seen you shoot from the hip with more incorrect information all across the web than anyone else in the world!

I just caught this message. I have heard more shitty practices in your amplifier circuits than ever before. You believe watching a few lee Jackson videos and reading a few books makes you an automatic expert. Unused tube stages not properly grounded and shotty wiring practices. I just dont publically slam your business because i have better things to do. You're entitled to your opinion just as i am entitled to mine but before you point fingers at someone else you had better make sure your hands are clean yourself.

Anytime you want to provide proof to the bullshit you're throwing I'm right here.
Jerry

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

Well I got so frustrated with the whole thing that the only way to troubleshoot properly is to pull the board and put the old one back in. So as I was disconnecting the board, my last disconnect I notice that I had wired the presence POT wrong and that I was grounding the middle lug in addition to the .1 cap. Not sure if that could have done it but I guess we'll know now once i get the old one up and running whether or not it was total oversight (focusing so much on the board i didn't look at the POTS) or if there is an issue with the transformer..

 

[Anonymous]

i think you figured out your problem!

 

[Froumy]

Kapo,
Let me know how you made out. I just finished the same project this weekend. Sounds great!

IIRC, you've built a handful of amps. Hope you find your prob... I could try to send pics if it helps. I couldn't see your V1, or input wiring.

Amp sounds way better- to my ears. I would revisit it. You should be able to triple check that board with it out.

I am curious about the amp you chose to gut. AOR series ii, 50w? If so, you have a different chassis, and your PT wiring colors are different. I'll have to assume it's the same as mine. Quick look said your rectification was right. What year? Do you still have the OT sticker on it? (mine fell off,- it was the same size as my other Drake stickers) I'm curious if yours(or mine) is a Drake, or not.

What was your plate voltage? Mine was 402. Exactly what I wanted, as this may become an early 2204..

I ask these questions, to 1. Help if I can. 2. Gain some insight on the OT. 3. Find what version/year(if any) of this particular amp will be the best platform for my cheap ass friends that can't afford a new build.


Her potential has dramatically increased, at the moment-but it's only killing through 1 of the 6 speakers I tried with it. Like to have you there, so I can hear your input.
Good luck.

-Bob


I