Anyone finish swamp ash body with Tru Oil?

[sixstringking713]

Looking to maybe build a cheap warmoth soloist guitar using Tru Oil on the finish? Any of you have good results?

$320 muikraft neck
$320 warmoth body (unfinished)
$80 dimarzio bridge pickup (not sure which one yet)
$0 neck pickup (use whatever I have laying around in the parts box)
$15 strat super switch
$0 FR bridge (Use existing ping one I have laying around)
$15 jack, neck plate, misc parts.

= ~ $750

 

[JackTripper]

I have used tru oil on strat bodies, ash and mahogany, in the style of the Charvel MZ Natural series. The more coats you use, the darker the wood will shade and the more it will resemble a "hard" finish. Works great, and costs little. Just keep in mind it offers no protection against dings or dents like a hard finish.

 

[Anonymous]

I'd use some type of wood sealer

If you're staining the body, use some type of pre-stain conditioner, then tint, then tru-oil

 

[Bob Savage]

Haven't used Tru Oil but I've used Woca Master Oil which is formulated for finishing hardwood floors. Works beautifully on Maple and Walnut and it's very durable.

 

[aizenx]

It depends on what you want to achieve finish-wise. For me, I love the raw wood feel, so I wouldn't use a wood sealer at all. I didn't on a mahogany axe and it's just awesome with tru oil. But, if you're big on everything being smooth and even, then do a sealer first.

 

[sixstringking713]

Like a woodgrain filler? is that the same as a sealer?

I used this stuff on my evh replica before I painted the spray paint.


http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... iller.html

 

[rcm78]

Have you checked the warmoth showcase? You should be able to find an unfinished body for less then $200...

 

[sixstringking713]

Have you checked the warmoth showcase? You should be able to find an unfinished body for less then $200...

I wanted a 1 piece ash which is unlikely to find in the showcase. But yeah - I might end up just getting a 2 piece one. Or might even get Alder instead?

What are the sound differences b/w alder vs ash?

 

[Bob Savage]

If you're not painting it I wouldn't use grain filler.

Go natural. Tru oil or Woca, either should leave a great finish with the grain patterns still exposed.

 

[Vrad]

I just rubbed some Tru Oil on my Musikraft Swamp ash body. No sealer or anything. It's fine. Looks good I think. It makes the grain pop. If you want to put a lacquer on it, then you would want to seal the grain.

 

[sytharnia1560]

I would shellac then tru oil

and go for the new dimarzio master paf

 

[Bob Savage]

I would shellac then tru oil

and go for the new dimarzio master paf

Why use Shellac under the oil?

 

[Anonymous]

I would shellac then tru oil

and go for the new dimarzio master paf

Why use Shellac under the oil?

I'm not sure, but I read that some builders recommend it

 

[R Weaver FX]

If you're not painting it I wouldn't use grain filler.

Go natural. Tru oil or Woca, either should leave a great finish with the grain patterns still exposed.

Yup I used several coats of Tru Oil and the body I did came out nice

 

[atrox]

I have done more than a few. You do not need Shellac with Tru-oil, as Tru-oil has a Shellac in it. It is considered a hard finish, but feels and applies like an oil.

 

[sytharnia1560]

I would shellac then tru oil

and go for the new dimarzio master paf

Why use Shellac under the oil?

I'm not sure, but I read that some builders recommend it

This is why i have done it .... just from seeing other guys do it, a lot of whom are acoustic guitar builders so i figure it can't be a bad thing

 

[bigangryguitar]

When I built my usacg tele last year I did a few coats of boiled linseed oil which gave it a nice darker hue and really made the grain pop and then finished it with a couple coats of true oil. Turned out fantastic if I do say so myself!

 

[yorkman75]

yeah, shellac not needed. light thin coats with the try oil