At it again; '69 SuperLead build
- Thread starter SpiderWars
- Start date
harddriver
Well-known member
Looks great Spider!
If you want a little more gain you can drop the 2K7/.68uf V1B cathode resistor to 820/.68uf.
I ran that on my 69 and that was a gainy beast, not modern gain but gainy nonetheless. Also you could try running a 25uf electrolytic cap on V2A, Mike Soldano claimed EVH has a Superbass amp that he loved and he was running that value cap there on that amp. Probably why he supposedly went to the 330uf cap in the last iteration of 12301 when Suhr go in there poking around. I find the 330uf too woofy but 25uf is another story all together.
Do you notice much of difference with the 2" thick lamination stack versus the traditional 1.5" output transformer?
If you want a little more gain you can drop the 2K7/.68uf V1B cathode resistor to 820/.68uf.
I ran that on my 69 and that was a gainy beast, not modern gain but gainy nonetheless. Also you could try running a 25uf electrolytic cap on V2A, Mike Soldano claimed EVH has a Superbass amp that he loved and he was running that value cap there on that amp. Probably why he supposedly went to the 330uf cap in the last iteration of 12301 when Suhr go in there poking around. I find the 330uf too woofy but 25uf is another story all together.
Do you notice much of difference with the 2" thick lamination stack versus the traditional 1.5" output transformer?
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SpiderWars
Well-known member
Haha, well yea...it is Rig Talk. Thanks!
I haven't played it enough yet. I had to leave town for the week. I can easily clip a 1k2 resistor in and try ~820R there. I think I have that value because some amp uses it in the PI. I know I tried all the typical tweeks when I built my first 50W in late 90s (still have it, rebuilt twice and it Jose'd now). I have to admit, for the moment I had it cranked I was surprised at how not overly bassy/woofy it was with that 100uF on V2. Yet it still rattled a box of picks/slides off of an amp across the room.Looks great Spider!
If you want a little more gain you can drop the 2K7/.68uf V1B cathode resistor to 820/.68uf.
I ran that on my 69 and that was a gainy beast, not modern gain but gainy nonetheless. Also you could try running a 25uf electrolytic cap on V2A, Mike Soldano claimed EVH has a Superbass amp that he loved and he was running that value cap there on that amp. Probably why he supposedly went to the 330uf cap in the last iteration of 12301 when Suhr go in there poking around. I find the 330uf too woofy but 25uf is another story all together.
Do you notice much of difference with the 2" thick lamination stack versus the traditional 1.5" output transformer?
SpiderWars
Well-known member
Just added the final touch on the aforementioned '68 Superbass I built last year. I was looking for something to make the cab look less barren and this caught my eye. The Marshdolorian. I might get another for the Superlead but I'd really like some sort of Chinese Dragon/Serpent, like on Jimmy Page's pants.
I might get another for the Superlead but I'd really like some sort of Chinese Dragon/Serpent, like on Jimmy Page's pants.
SpiderWars
Well-known member
Hey man, do you find the 820 on V1b to be too loose? I like the bottom to be fairly firm and it seems going from 2k7 to 820 can make it too spongy/soft. The amp doesn't need gain but as expected it's pretty bright until you turn it up past the 500pF bright cap. I might experiment with a 390pF or maybe even no cap. It seems to have full SL gain at 2:00 on the dial.Looks great Spider!
If you want a little more gain you can drop the 2K7/.68uf V1B cathode resistor to 820/.68uf.
I ran that on my 69 and that was a gainy beast, not modern gain but gainy nonetheless. Also you could try running a 25uf electrolytic cap on V2A, Mike Soldano claimed EVH has a Superbass amp that he loved and he was running that value cap there on that amp. Probably why he supposedly went to the 330uf cap in the last iteration of 12301 when Suhr go in there poking around. I find the 330uf too woofy but 25uf is another story all together.
Do you notice much of difference with the 2" thick lamination stack versus the traditional 1.5" output transformer?
I noticed in the Suhr SL68 they have both the 0.68uF cap AND the 250uF fat cap on V2a. Any info on why both?
I've been messing with the Superbass alot (reducing gain and making it way less EVH and more EJ) but just started playing this SL again and holy shit it has so much more gain. I hope to get a clip up this weekend but my vintage MXR Flanger is squealing and I really wanted to use it for a clip.
harddriver
Well-known member
The 820/.68uf on V1B may make it a bit less tight, I never really found that to be the issue on my 69 it does add to the gain. I was initially running an 820.68uf on V1B on my 68 but after listening hard I determined I didn't need gain, I went back and forth some, I wanted the backbone and composure the 2.7K/.68uf brings to the table after a long discussion with Ralle and Rob Galpin(Metro dudes). I've been quite happy with the 68 ever since and that was almost ten years ago, I just play and enjoy now, no more tweaking.
I think it imparts some of the magic of the Mustard cap effects onto the electrolytic cap attributes. Dave Friedman does this on his EVH amps but I wasn't aware John Suhr was doing it. I'm running a Mustard .68uf and 25uf electrolytic (V2A)on my 68 and like it just fine. My 69 I just ran a single Mustard .68uf it's not a whole lot of difference the electrolytic is just bypassing more usable gain lower in the frequency band with a 25uf the frequency shelves at about 80 hertz, anything below that is wasted gain/energy out of the guitar frequency range. I built the 69 to be more useable and less EVH honestly and it was a ripping amp that just had that plexi chirp in all the right places.
Yeah I finally let go of the myth of it was only a dimed Plexi plugged straight in story. Yes plugged straight in to the plexi with Franky(PAF)>MXR flanger>MXR Phaser>EP3 Echoplex>MXR 6band( on a looper pedal). And I don't think it was all controls were dimed either but one has to come to that revelation on their own. My MXR EVH flanger died awhile ago, I miss it. Check out an Eventide Ptichfactor Spider you'd love it....
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harddriver
Well-known member
If you are going for EJ versus EVH I'd say either go with nothing on the V2A 820 or if you want it a little more clarity and mids boost then you may want to look at a .68uf cap on the 820 V2A on that Superbass.
SpiderWars
Well-known member
Yep, I removed it entirely from V2a. I left it split cathode and used a 18n Mustard for the bright channel that I bought way back just because Valvestorm had in stock. So it's different but not that different. It's got more versatility and will get a lot of use. Great throughout the volume sweep and then jumpering for even more fun.
harddriver
Well-known member
Rob and I developed a good friendship thru Metro we still trade info and emails from time to time. He did some of the crazy frankenstein experiments on Metro regarding EVH, he even ran his bandmaster/bassman plugging the load into the external speaker out jack then cranked the bandmaster then reamped into his Marshall 1959, it was glorious... sadly his soundcloud page got corrupted....
Us ed heads on Metro were slightly obsessed with trying everything, it was such a special time collaborating and sharing all our findings openly for all to read. You are right Rdodson it was a special time, I was privileged to be part of it.
I also have to mention Mr Twistyneck, Strat78, Mark Abraham(Rockstah), SpiderWars.was on there as well...and many more I can't recall right now.
Most people don't know what great guitarist he is in his own right... and played in the last incarnation of KIX with Steve Whiteman singing.
Rob could really burn up the fretboard in a tasty kind of way
SpiderWars
Well-known member
I think this should be the final amp. I only changed the bright cap to 390pF mica and added the extra CDE cap to the cathode of V2a. I don't have a 0.68uF so I used 1.0uF. I don't really like the way it looks there but whatever. I put a little high temp RTV in a couple of places (probably unnecessary). I also changed that ridic big presence cap to a CDE 0.33uF.
And I added a little clamp for the power tube grid wires. I don't like running them underneath near all those other wires so I often wrap it over the top. Having this clamp makes that whole thing pretty rigid.
I've got the coolest badge incoming for the front.
I even put this little rubber damper I've had forever to V1 (which is a Beijing square getter that is really high gain and quiet in the B section). I think it was in my MkIII.
And I added a little clamp for the power tube grid wires. I don't like running them underneath near all those other wires so I often wrap it over the top. Having this clamp makes that whole thing pretty rigid.
I've got the coolest badge incoming for the front.
I even put this little rubber damper I've had forever to V1 (which is a Beijing square getter that is really high gain and quiet in the B section). I think it was in my MkIII.
CrazyNutz
Well-known member
Nice build.
BTW, If I'm doing a bright cap on the volume/gain these days, I tend to go with 4700p ceramic. Despite the size this tends to be fatter, and less icy. Those small values are just letting the highest of the high frequencies through. Which can be the total opposite of what you want.
BTW, If I'm doing a bright cap on the volume/gain these days, I tend to go with 4700p ceramic. Despite the size this tends to be fatter, and less icy. Those small values are just letting the highest of the high frequencies through. Which can be the total opposite of what you want.
SpiderWars
Well-known member
Thanks! I actually have a 4700pF Lemco pull from a '76 50W I sent to Shea (same source as the 0.68uF Mustard) but didn't even try it because of the ON/OFF nature. But the reality is I built my Superbass for all of the non-cranked Marshall tones (not variac'd) and I built this Superlead to be the cranked Marshall tone amp (always variac'd). So I should try it. Maybe I'll do a volume-on-6ish test.
harddriver
Well-known member
Fake Rudy or not... Robin L seemed to have some really precise insights with exacting details about Ed's 78 tour equipment. RGalpin and I tried all of Robin L's suggestions and I personally would have to say he was correct on almost all accounts at least regarding the amp setups and the most importantly the use of reamping with other Marshall's, Musicmans, Fender Bandmasters.
That Selland arena(1978) live video recording where the live tone was 100% VH1 live, NO STUDIO MAGIC. What was on stage with Ed at that show along with the Marshall 12301..... multiple Fender Bandmaster heads. I think I counted 4-5 Bandmaster that night....one was a Reverb head. Which amp was reamping which could still be up for debate.
Draw your own conclusions...
SpiderWars
Well-known member
Just did the swap and you were right @CrazyNutz . I was thinking about it all wrong. I was thinking "man it's so bright as you start to turn it up and it comes on too fast". But I really only care about the other end of the volume sweep and backing it down from 10. That's where the 5k pF really shines. It also feels way better in the right hand backing it down from 10 where the ~500pF didn't really do that. I need to put a lock on it and just play it now. Thanks for the suggestion. 