Bogner Alchemist mods?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gtrplr71
  • Start date Start date
hard to make mods without a schematic
but in my short 2 weeks experience with the alchemist, I'd definitely remove some gain to open the tone
a bit more presence and reducing the input resistance may help too (if there's any)
but I thought it sounded pretty good as it is
maybe a transformer swap, but not for tonal purposes
the stock transformers get hot as fuck (the entire amp does)
 
thanks for the reply I am having the transformer changed putting in a mercury should be interesting!
 
I have one too and I biased it at 50% dissipation at idle. Took care of the heat issue. Sounds great.
 
gtrplr71":74k83vjd said:
thanks for the reply I am having the transformer changed putting in a mercury should be interesting!
Click to expand...

nah, that's not really a smart move
mercury magnetics are way too overpriced and overhyped
I meant $50 magnetic components transformers or $70 heyboer transformers
the stock chinese transformers sound pretty good, but they seem to overheat, although I've never heard of someone having problems with them
the bias tip might help

I'd personally only tweak the preamp a bit
it's too saturated
and I'm a high gain metal player
I had the gain around 5-6, boost switch off
 
cool your probably right I only have the gain half and thats all I need I would just like to get a bit more sizzle and clean up the mids a bit.
 
I recently bought a Bogner Alchemist 1x12, I'm wondering if there's a mod to change the gain channel or the gain characteristics? My gain channel sounds like 10 fuzz pedals in a row maxed out with the bass taking over everything, it's extremely unusable... :cry:

Interestingly enough, none of the online demos sound this terrible as mine :(
 
I played a few and some sounded pretty nice, others not so much. I guess consistency and qc was a problem with them. I know that the dude at gc told me they had a few of the first batch die on the showroom floor so I don't know if reliability was a problem still or not. As far as tone, some sounded pretty nice and a lot of cool tonal options.
 
I wonder if I get my amp to a line6 repair shop if they can fix it, or if it's just not worth it...
 
Bogged":14hoaz6k said:
I have one too and I biased it at 50% dissipation at idle. Took care of the heat issue. Sounds great.
Click to expand...


So, I know this is a REALLY old thread but I was wondering if someone could shed light on 'HOW' to bias it at 50% at idle. ???

thanks

jb
 
Roaster42":9du79ysd said:
Bogged":9du79ysd said:
I have one too and I biased it at 50% dissipation at idle. Took care of the heat issue. Sounds great.
Click to expand...


So, I know this is a REALLY old thread but I was wondering if someone could shed light on 'HOW' to bias it at 50% at idle. ???

thanks

jb
Click to expand...
I am not an expert but if I was considering what was said,bias at 50% that would mean using the formula for tube biasing,there are some available online..I use this one..
Tube max dissipation watts,,thats the amount of watts that whichever power tubes you are going to use..example 6L6GC's are rated at 30 watts,so the bias formula I use is as follows for 6L6GC power tubes...30 watts divided by the plate voltage of the power tube at pin # 3..example is 30 watts divided by 480 plate voltage =0.0625..then multiply by the 50% dissipation at idle which goes like this..30 watts divided by 480 plate voltage =0.0625 multiplied by .50=0.031.25..then multiply this number by 1000=31.25mA so do this 30 divided by 480=0.0625 multiplied by .50=0.03125 multiplied by 1000=31.25 milli amps...this is running your tubes at a pretty low dissipation,I have used the 60% and the 70% most of the time I do my amp(s),then I play it to see how it sounds and look at the power tubes to see if they are glowing extra hot/red plating..if so back down the bias before the melt down ! This is how I learned so this is just what I do,I watched videos,and read a lot on various forums and Googled lots as well,but if you do take this on and you have no experience please be very careful because the components in tube amps can still be fully charged and if touched properly can possibly hurt you really bad and death can also happen..I don't know what your experience is so please don't take what I say here as an insult to you..this is what I do ..you asked about how to bias at 50% idle so when doing these checks and adjustments its a good idea to have the power tubes warmed up some,everybody has their own method and time amps need to be on to get the tubes ready for measurement and adjustments,+the amp(s) need to be in the Amp on,Standby off,or in the run/on position when taking measurements.. I can feel some comments coming after my writing here ! I probably need to make this more readable try this.
Power tube max dissipation watts divided by plate voltage at pin 3 with amps switch in the on position,standby in the off position,amp on.
30 watts divided by 480=0.0625..then multiply 0.0625 by .50 = 0.031.25 then multiply 0.031.25 by 1000 =31.25 milli amps. this is a good starting point to set your tubes at...

I do my EVH 5150-3 50 watt head the same way,but according to Howard he recommends to run the tubes at 30 mA per tube,or 60mA for the pair(2),so for me its 30 divided by 495 = 0.06060 multiplied by .70 = 0.04242 multiplied by 1000 = 42.42 mA is what my amp shows is an acceptable range the power tubes can be biased at,but my amp sounded terrible at this rating,so I went down in increments until arriving at the 30 mA recommended. my EVH sounds best right here. Not sure if this will help you but thats how I do my amps from here on out.
 
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