Bright/Bass Switches

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bbaug14

bbaug14

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Was playing with a couple of my modules this weekend and I had a question for you guys. When would you want to use the bright/bass switch instead of turning the EQ knobs? I'm curious what the difference is between the switches for bass/bright being on and the knobs backed off, or just turning the knobs and leaving the switches off. Is it a tighter sound or something? Thanks!!!!!
 
The Bass Boost switches are crucial for setting the tone. The name is a little misleading, because the BB switches are pre-gain and pre-EQ. Not only do they increase bass, they really change the "feel" of the module as well. THe more bass you have going into the gain stage, the smoother and softer it feels.

Kinda like how Jeff and Bruce were talking about the Bogner Ubie. It has a bass "cut" early on in the circuit, and then a bass "recovery" later on. You can mimic that by using BB0, and cranking your density.

So it's very, very different than merely turning up the knobs.

Try BB0 with the bass knob at 3 0 clock, then try the BB1 with the bass knob at 10 o clock.

Same general amount of "bass" in the overall sound, but totally different feel and tone and vibe.

I never use the bright switches for the most part... but they are useful if you like to have the A and B channels on the same module at opposite ends of the spectrum. They're also cool because they're inactive when the gain knob is at full.

For example, if you are using the SL module, and want the B channel cranked, and the A channel kinda clean... the A channel would be kinda middy and muddy without using the bright switch for some sparkle.
 
RockStarNick":2lwxkarn said:
The Bass Boost switches are crucial for setting the tone. The name is a little misleading, because the BB switches are pre-gain and pre-EQ. Not only do they increase bass, they really change the "feel" of the module as well. THe more bass you have going into the gain stage, the smoother and softer it feels.

Kinda like how Jeff and Bruce were talking about the Bogner Ubie. It has a bass "cut" early on in the circuit, and then a bass "recovery" later on. You can mimic that by using BB0, and cranking your density.

So it's very, very different than merely turning up the knobs.

Try BB0 with the bass knob at 3 0 clock, then try the BB1 with the bass knob at 10 o clock.

Same general amount of "bass" in the overall sound, but totally different feel and tone and vibe.

I never use the bright switches for the most part... but they are useful if you like to have the A and B channels on the same module at opposite ends of the spectrum. They're also cool because they're inactive when the gain knob is at full.

For example, if you are using the SL module, and want the B channel cranked, and the A channel kinda clean... the A channel would be kinda middy and muddy without using the bright switch for some sparkle.
Click to expand...

Agree 100% here. I generally don't use the bright switches either. Only module I have it on right now is the VX, and sometimes the COD. Helps on ChA for sure. The Bass switches for me..really help w/ feel...and also adds some roundness to the bottom end...giving a bit more "give" vs the Bass switch on 0, being more "tight." Like on the EG5...I run the bass switch on 1...but also run the bass knob at about 3 oclock to 4 oclock. Gives it a bit more push on the low end...but also still remains tight..just not as tight as bass switch on 0.

Eric
 
I run my VX with the Bright switch on 1 also. I leave the treble around noonish. It gives it the perfect amount of "sparkle" so to speak, and it is totally different than trying to run with the bright switch off and mess with the EQ to get the same sound.

On my SL2x i run both the BB and Bright switch on 0.
 
I use the following in my rig and why:

(1) the bass switch (2) on the T/D because I like going for those deep EJ clean tones;

(2) the bright switch (1) on the VX because it gives a little more pleasing top end presence; and

(3) the bass switch (1 or 2) on the EG5 to temper it with the bass of the SL. I like the unboosted EG5 just fine for recording but when switching between SL and EG5 you lose some lows.
 
Those switches can totally change the character of a module. Considering the tone controls are interactive and say using BB1 and rolling back the bass to 10:00 changes the way the mids and highs sound. I find it changes the overall sound a lot compared to Bass at 3:00 and BB0. Same with the bright switch. I notice both more at higher volumes.
 
This is what I wanted to hear. I was playing with SL and messing with the BB and Bright and it was sounding a lot different with the BB on versus off. Not just in bass, but overall feel. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't just hearing things. lol

I use the BB1 on EG5 and SL2X. I find it gives those modules a little more depth and makes them sound less tinny/harsh. Other than that, I don't use the BB or Bright at all. I'll have to try to Bright on 1 though on VX and see what that sounds like since it seems pretty popular around here. lol :lol: :LOL:
 
bbaug14":3ebvvnnf said:
I use the BB1 on EG5 and SL2X. I find it gives those modules a little more depth and makes them sound less tinny/harsh.
Click to expand...

The Bass Boost levels aren't the same on each module, so that's why you have it on some, and not others.

BB1 on an EG5 and SL2x is roughly the equivalent of a theoretical "Bass Boost 0.5" on a stock SL.
 
To my ears, the tight switch seems to sound less bassey. Does anyone else hear this?

The manual says that the tight switch will clear up muddiness in the bottom end especially with more distorted tones. If I'm running cleaner or mid-gain tones, I'm trying to keep the tight switch off.

For my Rebel 30, the manual says that the bright switch, when engaged causes the amp to have less mid-range. The suggestion in the manual is to turn on the bright switch and dial back the treble knob. I'm getting my best tones out of the Rebel 30 using this method.
 
Currently I'm running both the D/D and VX modules with bright at 1. I'm accustomed to hearing my AC30 with Celestion Blues, and the closed-back 2X12 cab with G12K-85's that I'm using with the M4 doesn't have that nice alnico upper-mid and high end sparkle. The Bright boost helps approximate that tone.

I'm boosting the bass on the SL2X and the COD because they're both just a tad shy on bottom end.
 
I think Bruce should write up a definitive article on
this subject and include as a third tech article.
I noticed that the GC line up comes with the "watts
vs. volume" and "sound dispersion" articles right in
the manual.

I think a Pre vs. Post tone stack eq article would be
at least as helpful if not more than those.
I think this is a subject that most people don't
really understand fully - including me.

I was sort of surprised to learn just recently that on
Fryette Sig X amplifiers, the "voicing" switches are
simply attenuating the input. It's not like I'm
disappointed it's not something else, but they shape
the sound so much, I was surprised to learn that's all
that was going on.

Again, Bruce's definitive take on this now that the GC
line is on the scene with the Bright & Tight switches
would be a great and welcome article.

Just my two cents.
 
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