Expensive Instrument Cable Snake Oil

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In my experience, Gotham is better than Mogami, which tends to be microphonic due to build up of triboelectric charge. Basically... you move the cable or slap it, step on it, and it makes noise. Mogami claims they have special sauce inside the cable to prevent this, but the ones I've tried must be sauceless I guess.
That’s annoying as hell -don’t blame you for switching. I’ve really been quite lucky with cables concerning noise - it’s just been nonissue for many years now regardless of brand. Was this issue with 2524 I assume?
 
I respect any player who gigs enough to put food on the table
AT the time I did this, the band was one of 5 jobs I had at the time. When times are tough, get tough. You do what you have to do.

For 98% plus the factory power cable s all you will ever need -replacement cost $10.

For the rest, a power conditioner and a $40 power cable from Amazon with twisted conductors and a Mylar foil shield, plus depending upon application a noise gate will solve the issue.

Not just me saying it - audio and electrical engineers not selling magic power cables as well.
 
A few years back I changed out all the wire from the substation to my electrical panel. While I didn't notice much difference in audio quality or noise...clothes out of the dryer were absolutely softer with an improved scent.
 
I finally see why you're so gung ho about the issue. Expensive power cables = less money for food
I'm FAT??? Oh no! How come no one ever told me?

coincidentally, I am working on the issue. I now weigh less than when the video was shot - down 90 pounds or so from my max. Not an easy task.
 
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coincidentally, I am working on the issue. I know weigh less than when the video was shot - down 90 pounds or so from my max. Not an easy task.
I'd like to offer a genuine congratulations on the weight loss. Hopefully chewing the fat on this power cable debate won't make you relapse.
 
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I’ve been using Monster and Hosa amp to speaker cables for years I’ve never tried Mogami cables
 
Not about thickness but capacitance. Lower pF equals less high end roll off. So 40pF would roll off more high end compared to 20pF. Everything else about the construction is for noise, durability, reliability etc.
That's really all there is to it. Thing is I used to go for the lowest pf but that's not always a good thing.

I've have a good collection of Mogami, Canari, all sound good. My go to's though for quite awhile is the Best-Tronics stuff, and I even like the old Fulltone cables as well. However I have some really super high end cables I bought years ago that are ultra low pf and it's just too much, from an audible perspective is almost to thin sounding.
 
That's really all there is to it. Thing is I used to go for the lowest pf but that's not always a good thing.

I've have a good collection of Mogami, Canari, all sound good. My go to's though for quite awhile is the Best-Tronics stuff, and I even like the old Fulltone cables as well. However I have some really super high end cables I bought years ago that are ultra low pf and it's just too much, from an audible perspective is almost to thin sounding.
Totally get that. I find that my taste really varies by day. Some days I want that extra bite from a low cap cable, some days it bother my ears and I like something a little higher. Kind of cool to just have some extra levers to pull to get that last couple % depending on mood, guitar, amp, speakers etc.
 
I’ve been using Monster and Hosa amp to speaker cables for years I’ve never tried Mogami cables
In this case, there are many options that are affordable and an improvement!
I'd start with replacing those Monster cables with Sommer Spirit XXL or Klotz LaGrange (AC110). And as for Hosa, even Cordial or Mogami would be better I guess. I do have some patch cables for my homestudio from Hosa, that are only used as a last resort.
 
I’m using Monster and Hosa for amp to speaker and for guitar I’m using Dimarzio guitar cables,so your saying switch out the monster and Hosa amp to speaker cables to what??
 
Power cables:

Suppose we could pug our device directly into the wall socket. WIthout any cable.

ANY cable used is going to deliver slightly less electricy than our imagined direct to the wall connection. No way to avoid this. The cable can only take away, not add, electrical power.

Now let us consider electric noise - again, the cable can only ADD unwanted noise, compared to our theoretical direct connection.

Bear in mind the electricity coming into the device is going to be transiting through an isolation transformer to remove unwanted noise, and will then be rectified and filtered into DC current. Unless the different power cables are somehow causing a differnt DC voltage and current to come out of the rectification and filter stages, the device CANNOT sound different - the sound altering and producing componenets are running off of this DC voltage. Those componenets have no way of "knowing" which power cable is being used!
For aroung 95 to 99 percent of us, and our devices, the factory supplied will perform adequately, assuming the wall socket and the device power socket are in good working order and properly dimensioned.

What is that is not the case? Suppose are device has a poorly designed or performing isolation transformer, or you are plugging into circuits that are shared with an air conditionor, refrigeration device, neon or flourescent illumination? Again for 95 to 98 percent of us, upgrading to a power cable with twisted conductos and a mylar foil or braided mesh shield may help - you can get one for $30 - $50 off Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GNL9G...onics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

If that doesn't work? A power conditioner such as Furman makes can be the answer - $90 to $400 depeinging upon the features and the capacity you desire - BUT you can hook multiple devices to it, whereas a power cables serves - one. Additional options such as hum filters and ground lifts are available. All of those will do much more for you than a high dollar power cable.

Anyone who claims otherwise needs to pony up proof, and more rigorous proof than anecdotal "I heard a difference".
 
I’m using Monster and Hosa for amp to speaker and for guitar I’m using Dimarzio guitar cables,so your saying switch out the monster and Hosa amp to speaker cables to what??
If what you already have is working, I would advocate using them until they fail. At such time, purchase a moderately priced robustly constructed replacement from any reputable brand if you don't want to fabricate your own, which is easy to do if you can solder and use heat shrink.

For the voltages, amerages, and frequencies involved in power and speaker cabling, mechanically sound and suffiently large conductors and good plugs are all that matters, as skin effects and capacitance are negligable. Audio signal cables are a different issue, but what you find on the rack at Guitar Center will work fine.
 
pug-smile.webp
 
So the cables that I have listed(brand)are not good?
If you are pleased with the way they perform, their durability, ease of cleaning, ease of storing when not in use - why change? Only you can tell if your cords are "not good".
 
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