Finally finished my pedal board!! WOOHOO!!!!

M

mjtripper

Member
It's DONE!! I've been tweaking this thing for a long time now, swapping effects in and out, changing the layout, trying different cables, and I even rebuilt the board itself once. I've posted some pics at various stages along the way but I thought I would post the final product now that I'm done. (no - really :doh: ) The main amp for this is a Rivera K-TRE but I put it together so I could also use it with other amps or even make one patch and use the entire board in serial into the front of a fender style amp.

Everything is stock except the g-string which I had modified by ISP so when power is applied it is on instead of the default which is off. I also run the od9 at 12volts so it's a little cleaner. All the power is isolated and I power it with a gigrig generator which is mounted inside my amp and the dc is fed down an extension cable in the snake. If I unplug the wireless I can use a 1-spot as a backup power source. My not-patented-applied-for-setting-saver-thingydos keep all my settings intact as I put the board in and out of the case. That plus a padded dust cover help keep kids and pets off it when it's at home. :gethim:

The single patch bay is where the wireless plugs in so if I want to bypass it for any reason I can just unplug that and plug in my instrument cable. The 4 point patch bay has jacks for the guitar amp input, bass amp input, and the send/return for the guitar amp effects loop. If I need to run it into the front of a loaner amp or something I just patch the guitar amp input into the effects send and then just plug the effects return into the amp input. Works great for jam sessions when I don't want to take my amp. It has sends for my guitar and bass amp so I can use the same board for everything. The patch point up on the board itself is an insert point right before the reverb which is where I plug in my looper or effects I want to play with. I use the k-tre for high gain and the plexi-drive for low gain with the od9 used to goose either if needed. :rock:








 
Dude. Very impressive. I've redone my board at least 5 times this year and it's not easy. I found new respect for the guys who do at this level. Its not as easy as it looks. .killer job. What kind of board is it?
 
Thanks, I made the board out of 1/2 and 3/4 inch furniture grade plywood all glued and screwed together. For paint I used smooth truck bed liner for durability and so far it's holding up.
 
Nice Pedalboard. I didn't know you could run the Maxon OD-9 at 12V, I may have to try that. Where did you get the little knob protectors?

A list of pedals and order would be super cool too. I can pretty much tell the order, but like with the Empress pedal, I think its a compressor, but I am not sure.
 
blackba":1kwyod28 said:
Nice Pedalboard. I didn't know you could run the Maxon OD-9 at 12V, I may have to try that. Where did you get the little knob protectors?

A list of pedals and order would be super cool too. I can pretty much tell the order, but like with the Empress pedal, I think its a compressor, but I am not sure.
Click to expand...
I run both my Timmy and Koko Boost at 18V. Definately adds more headroom. :yes:
 
LP Freak":6jgt46u2 said:
blackba":6jgt46u2 said:
Nice Pedalboard. I didn't know you could run the Maxon OD-9 at 12V, I may have to try that. Where did you get the little knob protectors?

A list of pedals and order would be super cool too. I can pretty much tell the order, but like with the Empress pedal, I think its a compressor, but I am not sure.
Click to expand...
I run both my Timmy and Koko Boost at 18V. Definately adds more headroom. :yes:
Click to expand...

I have a Timmy too. Man, I need to get a power supply that can do 12V and 18V :doh:
 
I made the knob protectors by cutting out shapes from an old rubber maid container and then using those little velcro sticky back circles on the knobs and the shapes. They come off easy enough when you want to make a change but offer just enough protection to prevent the knobs from moving. Cheap and effective :) I think you can run most tube screamer style circuits up to 12 volts but I think higher then that you can damage the circuit. Lots of other units can run higher though as LP Freak stated and generally the higher the voltage the higher the headroom.

The signal order is:
Line 6 G50 wireless
G50 main out to single patchbay
G50 secondary out to quad patchbay (to snake, to bass amp)
Wampler Clean Buffer (from single patchbay)
MXR/CAE MC404 wah sitting on a G-Lab wah pad
Turbo Tuner
Empress Compressor
ISP G-String
Maxon OD9
Wampler Plexi-Drive
quad patchbay - to snake - k-tre input
quad patchbay - from snake - k-tre effects send
Neunaber Chroma Stereo Chorus (used mono)
Wampler Faux Analog Echo
Single Looper as an insert point (right now with just a Digitech Jaman stereo looper)
Neunaber Wet Stereo Reverb (used mono)
quad patchbay - to snake - k-tre effects return

All the patch bays and the 1 channel looper are Loop-Master. Another thing worth mentioning is if I skip the wireless I'm all analog into the front of the amp and with the 1 channel looper in bypass all three pedals in the loop have analog dry paths. There is no AC anywhere near the board since I keep the generator back by the amp with DC running down the snake. I've worked very hard to keep noise as low as possible and in trying out a couple different digital pedals without the analog dry I was noticing some background noise and various artifacts which is why I went this route. This was even after setting up the input gains for low signal to noise and all the fun stuff to minimize the noise. It's the main reason for that 1 channel looper as an insert, that way I can use whatever pedal I want and if they are really noisy they are only 1 click from being out of the signal path. I have a small secondary board I can mount them to if their number gets high but right now it's just a jamman looper.
 
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