Here's how M. Cameron can ruin a good amp ...

  • Thread starter Thread starter charveldan
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Can't go wrong with anything Guthrie Govan and Richie Kotzen got such great tones out of! :thumbsup:
 
I have seen plenty of gooped and painted shit from boutique pedals to MTS modules. Guys do it all the time. Look inside a Zinky amp and see all the splooge in there. I used to worry about all that shit in my amp to but the amps just plain kick ass and the tones from them, well if you don't have one or have never played one you really don't know what you are missing. I own and have owned a few amps and not many touch a Cameron modded amp if that sound is what your looking for. Plus the amount of options he offers is amazing.


http://www.gearslutz.com/board/so-many-guitars-so-little-time/907343-wait-new-supro-amps-3.html
 
I just got off this Rocktron Piranha through the RK100 loop return, and it sounds f-ing great! I mainly wanted to add some clean tones using the 4CM through the TC2290, and man does it deliver! Sounds like a full-on tube preamp to me. It sounded a bit edgy at full wall voltage, so I plugged it into the 116VAC variac circuit... Perfection! :) I don't generally like HUSH noise limiters, but this one doesn't sound gated at all. I like to have a bit of noise to keep it real yo, but this is perfect.

 
FourT6and2":2ggmxehw said:
No. No they are not.

People who do things the right way will build their own regulated DC supplies to fit the amp, not retro fit whatever hack-job parts they have laying around their garbage dump of a bench space. Especially if they're charging for their services. I'd flip the fuck out if I paid a tech to work on an amp of mine and it came back with retro-fitted laptop parts.

Not sure if they were referring to the use of DC heaters in general or the use of laptop chargers, but the ones I've seen (while not many) have always been these little PCBs that mount to the inside wall of the chassis.

TrueTone500":2ggmxehw said:
When making modifications for gain at V1a/b, it's best to use axial type electrolytic capacitors, and suspend them off the surface of the resistors... This keeps the electrolytic capacitors nice and cool! :)

Never knew that. Guess I've got some work to do in one of my amps... I've got the axial type .68uf electrolytic (leads coming out of both ends) in a position in my 2203, but there isn't really any space between that and the resistor.
 
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I think the only thing worse than a Billy Blades amp or tattoo is someone dumb enough to buy one and its happened. :confused:

Yes this is real. :doh:
 
londaxe":1kr1ogra said:
FourT6and2":1kr1ogra said:
No. No they are not.

People who do things the right way will build their own regulated DC supplies to fit the amp, not retro fit whatever hack-job parts they have laying around their garbage dump of a bench space. Especially if they're charging for their services. I'd flip the fuck out if I paid a tech to work on an amp of mine and it came back with retro-fitted laptop parts.

Not sure if they were referring to the use of DC heaters in general or the use of laptop chargers, but the ones I've seen (while not many) have always been these little PCBs that mount to the inside wall of the chassis.

TrueTone500":1kr1ogra said:
When making modifications for gain at V1a/b, it's best to use axial type electrolytic capacitors, and suspend them off the surface of the resistors... This keeps the electrolytic capacitors nice and cool! :)

Never knew that. Guess I've got some work to do in one of my amps... I've got the axial type .68uf electrolytic (leads coming out of both ends) in a position in my 2203, but there isn't really any space between that and the resistor.
"Temperature is of great concern to any capacitor. On a circuit board, capacitors should not be mounted close to heat sources. This applies to most capacitors, but especially to aluminum. A radiation shield between the cap and the hot component prevents the hot component from accelerating failure mechanisms, which can be simply a shorter lifespan..."

http://silentadmin.gsans.com/my-toolbox ... tors-fail/
 
Well.. You can say what you want about the guy, but Dan's threads get more traffic than NYC in rush hour.
 
xXDaveyJonesXx":20yv1du3 said:
Well.. You can say what you want about the guy, but Dan's threads get more traffic than NYC in rush hour.
Agree and....
I will buy THAT FOR A DOLLAR!!
 
londaxe":3qxbgyz2 said:
FourT6and2":3qxbgyz2 said:
No. No they are not.

People who do things the right way will build their own regulated DC supplies to fit the amp, not retro fit whatever hack-job parts they have laying around their garbage dump of a bench space. Especially if they're charging for their services. I'd flip the fuck out if I paid a tech to work on an amp of mine and it came back with retro-fitted laptop parts.

Not sure if they were referring to the use of DC heaters in general or the use of laptop chargers, but the ones I've seen (while not many) have always been these little PCBs that mount to the inside wall of the chassis.

TrueTone500":3qxbgyz2 said:
When making modifications for gain at V1a/b, it's best to use axial type electrolytic capacitors, and suspend them off the surface of the resistors... This keeps the electrolytic capacitors nice and cool! :)

Never knew that. Guess I've got some work to do in one of my amps... I've got the axial type .68uf electrolytic (leads coming out of both ends) in a position in my 2203, but there isn't really any space between that and the resistor.
I've never actually taken a cathode resistor temp reading from a JMC, RK (or any other amp), but it would be an interesting process. If it doesn't get too hot, I would prefer them mounted on top vs. hassling with suspending them. I of-course wanted the RK to look cosmetically stock as possible... I made 3 minor changes which tweak the preamp bottom-end in my favor.
 
londaxe":1m4v6qzx said:
FourT6and2":1m4v6qzx said:
No. No they are not.

People who do things the right way will build their own regulated DC supplies to fit the amp, not retro fit whatever hack-job parts they have laying around their garbage dump of a bench space. Especially if they're charging for their services. I'd flip the fuck out if I paid a tech to work on an amp of mine and it came back with retro-fitted laptop parts.

Not sure if they were referring to the use of DC heaters in general or the use of laptop chargers, but the ones I've seen (while not many) have always been these little PCBs that mount to the inside wall of the chassis.

TrueTone500":1m4v6qzx said:
When making modifications for gain at V1a/b, it's best to use axial type electrolytic capacitors, and suspend them off the surface of the resistors... This keeps the electrolytic capacitors nice and cool! :)

Never knew that. Guess I've got some work to do in one of my amps... I've got the axial type .68uf electrolytic (leads coming out of both ends) in a position in my 2203, but there isn't really any space between that and the resistor.

I'm talking about using parts for an amp, that were not meant for an amp. Grabbing a laptop charger and splicing the wires into the circuit is asinine. Having a small PCB/tag-board in the amp that you've built for DC regulation is fine. That's the way it's usually done. What's not usually done is taking apart your dish washer or toaster oven and throwing parts from that into one of your customer's amps...
 
FourT6and2":2ohsx58c said:
What's not usually done is taking apart your dish washer or toaster oven and throwing parts from that into one of your customer's amps...

Isn't that one of the things Mark is know for (using random parts)?
My Cameron amp had a crackpipe under the chassis...
 
Business":66zigv5o said:
FourT6and2":66zigv5o said:
What's not usually done is taking apart your dish washer or toaster oven and throwing parts from that into one of your customer's amps...

Isn't that one of the things Mark is know for (using random parts)?
My Cameron amp had a crackpipe under the chassis...

lol, you might be thinking of Fab Amps and the infamous street sign chassis. ha, now that I think about it, Dan would have been the perfect spokesperson for ol' Rob. Throw in the dude with the drum/speaker cab abomination and...man, don't even want to think about that. I don't think the industry would survive.
 
londaxe":1qwdl2re said:
charveldan":1qwdl2re said:

What's that thing that looks like a laptop power supply? :confused: Right next to the standby switch
Weird... It looks like Mark may have salvaged a voltage transformer (possibly from a telephone or laptop) and stuck in there to power the bulb in the lighted switch.

Can we get some closer pics of this device?
 
GuidanceOfSin":2c9vg7ji said:
Business":2c9vg7ji said:
FourT6and2":2c9vg7ji said:
What's not usually done is taking apart your dish washer or toaster oven and throwing parts from that into one of your customer's amps...

Isn't that one of the things Mark is know for (using random parts)?
My Cameron amp had a crackpipe under the chassis...

lol, you might be thinking of Fab Amps and the infamous street sign chassis. ha, now that I think about it, Dan would have been the perfect spokesperson for ol' Rob. Throw in the dude with the drum/speaker cab abomination and...man, don't even want to think about that. I don't think the industry would survive.
My RK100 was constructed with the 12VAC filter capacitor hanging off the side of board #2... :doh:



I removed the capacitor, and installed on a dedicated tag-strip... :)

 
TrueTone500":fhmfocbj said:
Can we get some closer pics of this device?

It looks like a laptop power adapter or something. Jerry from FJA said it was to power the remote switching in the amp. There are no DC heaters and it's quiet, anyway.
 
Racerxrated":29apcqik said:
Yeah Richard's pretty good isn't he? Amazing player... :rock:


Ummmm...yeah. He's ok. If by ok you mean OTHERWORLDLY. Sickest technique on the board, hands down, Richard is a bad mofo.
 
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