How Should I Fix This?

[BeZo]

We had a cable go bad in the snake that goes to my drummer. The cable connects a Sample Pad to our IEM mixer, and likely had a wire come loose from the plug end. The cable was a cheap Hosa TRS that has the plastic ends that can't be taken apart or soldered. Lesson learned.

I have a few options in fixing this. I could replace the cable(s) or fix it. First, the reason I was running TRS is to take both left and right outputs through the snake. The Sample Pad itself is a sampler, but we also run a separate trigger bar to the kick input and use it for a click. That gives my drummer the ability to click us in through our in-ears. All the samples go to one side and the click is on the other. Samples go to FOH, and the click is just for us.

So I have four options to solve this problem. Either fix the cable or replace the cable(s), and run TRS or mono. The adapters never failed me, the TRS cable did. Do I solder a TRS jack on end and run it through adapters on either end split it (which worked fine), or do I solder two mono plugs on the end? Anyone have any luck or tips on making a Y cable? Should I just replace it with better cables? Is it better to tear the snake apart and replace cables or just fix the end? What do you think?

 

[PBGas]

I've had more then my share of failed Hosa cables and it is always the flex joint. They are built for a price point. The molded ends can only be moved and bent so many times. I would completely replace it with something of higher quality so you don't have to do it again. If you repair it, then he problem is if the cable breaks again in another area. I've had that happen as well with our PA snake. Lesson learned and I replaced it with a better quality and no more issues.

 

[squealie]

If it was me, I'd zip-tie a TRS (mic) cable to the snake and forget it until the next failure.

But you certainly can replace the molded end with a soldered TRS.

 

[Speeddemon]

But you certainly can replace the molded end with a soldered TRS.

Yep, just cut off the molded connector including the molded strain relief. Then, strip back the mantle of the remaining cable about an inch or so, and solder the 2 core wires and the shield to a new, good quality plug. Neutrik, Amphenol, Switchcraft...