bbaug14
Active member
LP Freak":285w2njq said:
Because in the posts above it said "hey usually measure about 16-18/64ths on the sides of the bridge when im looking for 4-5/64ths at the 12th fret"
Because in the posts above it said "hey usually measure about 16-18/64ths on the sides of the bridge when im looking for 4-5/64ths at the 12th fret"
LP Freak
Well-known member
The dimension from the body to the bridge could vary from guitar to guitar. That wouldn't translate to the neck too well IMO. I'd stick to taking all the measurments off the frets.bbaug14":3b2l0fam said:
bbaug14
Active member
Okay. I've got it set up where I'm getting 4/64s from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the low E. I think that is what I'm looking for unfretted. So now on to the truss rod. Still not sure how the feeler gauge plays in, but I'll try adjusting to the ruler I guess and see how it turns out.
glip22
Well-known member
I agree. Other variables can affect these measurements such as fret height or fret wear. The information was very good though.LP Freak":1pofj1uz said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
the bridge measurement is a roundabout bro...it get's you in the ballpark...
most guitars that i have, when i slap a new set of strings on them and set them up, usually end up measuring the same at the bridge, ..and, even though fret height may change over time, or relief, i find that the bridge height plays an important role on the feel of my guitar against my right hand.
tailpiece can go tight to body.
each guitar will be different, but for sure, once you get yours set, and if you keep the string gauge the same, you can just revert to your measurements from before. i've been doin it that way for years.
i dont use a feeler gauge...i like a perfectly straight neck with a C-hair relief (strung to tension).
dont be afraid to experiment. and, the tip about turning the trussrod 1/4 turn at a time is a great rule to live by....that's really the only place you can F up your axe irrepairably in some cases (some would say most)....the bridge, TP, and pickups can all be experimented with.
when i measure with the ruler beside bridge, i measure the ruler butt against the body and then where it lines up with the top of the bridge.
+1 strongly recommend Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair Guide. it's a GREAT reference, and, if anything, a great read even if you only use it for setups and electronic tips.
most guitars that i have, when i slap a new set of strings on them and set them up, usually end up measuring the same at the bridge, ..and, even though fret height may change over time, or relief, i find that the bridge height plays an important role on the feel of my guitar against my right hand.
tailpiece can go tight to body.
each guitar will be different, but for sure, once you get yours set, and if you keep the string gauge the same, you can just revert to your measurements from before. i've been doin it that way for years.
i dont use a feeler gauge...i like a perfectly straight neck with a C-hair relief (strung to tension).
dont be afraid to experiment. and, the tip about turning the trussrod 1/4 turn at a time is a great rule to live by....that's really the only place you can F up your axe irrepairably in some cases (some would say most)....the bridge, TP, and pickups can all be experimented with.
when i measure with the ruler beside bridge, i measure the ruler butt against the body and then where it lines up with the top of the bridge.
+1 strongly recommend Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair Guide. it's a GREAT reference, and, if anything, a great read even if you only use it for setups and electronic tips.
LP Freak
Well-known member
yeti":jbj3rc05 said:
The price of the book is less than the cost of a set up.
bbaug14
Active member
Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I downloaded the Guitar Player book last night and it made the truss rod adjustment a lot more clear with the pictures and explanations. It looks like there is a ton of great information in there and I can't wait to read some more, when my infant daughter allows it of course.
I got the LP all set up and I'm getting similar measurements to what you guys posted (12th fret string height, 22nd fret string height, and height of string when adjusting truss rod to 0.009 at the 7th). The only issue I've found is I have a slight buzz on the low E, but honestly, I think this is due to the graphite nut either being installed or cut improperly. It's the only string that buzzes and raising the bridge does nothing to take care of it. I can get rid of it by adjusting the truss rod, but that makes the action way too high. We'll see what the guy who installed it says though.
"when i measure with the ruler beside bridge, i measure the ruler butt against the body and then where it lines up with the top of the bridge."
WOW! I was getting the same measurements to the bottom of the bridge. Your bridge must be nearly or completely snug to the guitar. That or your 'top' and my 'bottom' are the same thing.
I got the LP all set up and I'm getting similar measurements to what you guys posted (12th fret string height, 22nd fret string height, and height of string when adjusting truss rod to 0.009 at the 7th). The only issue I've found is I have a slight buzz on the low E, but honestly, I think this is due to the graphite nut either being installed or cut improperly. It's the only string that buzzes and raising the bridge does nothing to take care of it. I can get rid of it by adjusting the truss rod, but that makes the action way too high. We'll see what the guy who installed it says though.
"when i measure with the ruler beside bridge, i measure the ruler butt against the body and then where it lines up with the top of the bridge."
WOW! I was getting the same measurements to the bottom of the bridge. Your bridge must be nearly or completely snug to the guitar. That or your 'top' and my 'bottom' are the same thing.
glip22
Well-known member
Did you add a little crazy glue to bring the nut slot up on the Low E as I suggested earlier? That's why it is buzzing. If you are not going to have the nut replaced try the crazy glue. It will not hurt anything. Also a different brand of string can stop the buzzing. For example I have a guitar that the A string will buzz on the 5th fret only with Elixirs. If I change that string to another brand no buzz at all. Guitars can be that finickybbaug14":kc7xnuhj said:Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I downloaded the Guitar Player book last night and it made the truss rod adjustment a lot more clear with the pictures and explanations. It looks like there is a ton of great information in there and I can't wait to read some more, when my infant daughter allows it of course.
I got the LP all set up and I'm getting similar measurements to what you guys posted (12th fret string height, 22nd fret string height, and height of string when adjusting truss rod to 0.009 at the 7th). The only issue I've found is I have a slight buzz on the low E, but honestly, I think this is due to the graphite nut either being installed or cut improperly. It's the only string that buzzes and raising the bridge does nothing to take care of it. I can get rid of it by adjusting the truss rod, but that makes the action way too high. We'll see what the guy who installed it says though.
"when i measure with the ruler beside bridge, i measure the ruler butt against the body and then where it lines up with the top of the bridge."
WOW! I was getting the same measurements to the bottom of the bridge. Your bridge must be nearly or completely snug to the guitar. That or your 'top' and my 'bottom' are the same thing.
LP Freak
Well-known member
Glad everything worked out for you. So it is possible after all.
Atropos_Project
New member
glip22":bgbuhtfk said:
Any brand names to consider, or just a good quality metal straight-edge from Lowe's etc? I'd been using the capo @ first fret / press down at 22nd fret, then using the string itself as the straight edge, but would like a bit more accuracy at times.
I just (re)purchased a LP studio re-issue that seems to not want to stay in tune very well. I suspect the stock strings are the culprit, as the winding on the post is rather minimal across all 6 strings. However, when you tune the G up to pitch, you'll hear a "ting" as it sounds like it's getting hung up in the nut, and then the string goes slightly sharp.
New strings and some pencil lead, hopefully it doesn't need anything more than that.
glip22
Well-known member
Yep. Just a good quality edge should be fine.Atropos_Project":2cbaoxsf said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
WOW! I was getting the same measurements to the bottom of the bridge. Your bridge must be nearly or completely snug to the guitar. That or your 'top' and my 'bottom' are the same thing.
i have to say, i've been called an ass before, but that's the most creative/guitar related ever!!!!!!!
bro, im REALLY sorry...i saw that i posted 16-18/64 up above, and thought about it more today, so i just referenced 2 of my setup files on my home computer for 2 of my LP's, and they actually reflect 40/64ths on both. you shoud be good to go where you said yours is at.
work injury/pain meds/bad memory/loopyposts.com/hahhaha
it's pretty rewarding setting your own axes up...the more you do, the better you'll get.
i had mine down to about 4 hours total....
-pre-measure 12th(low and high) bridge (L & H), pickups (ditto).
-destring then clean the frets with 0000 steel wool (a good thing to do during fret shine/clean is tape your pickups off with masking tape, theres a whole section about it in the erlewine book). that steel wool dust and residue gets on your pickup magnets...it's a pain. masking taping the pickups is the best way i've found to do it BUT. when you mask off your guitar...you can take the tape strips, and build them as long and wide as you need them. then, i take masking tape, and put it sticky side to the sticky side of the template...that way, you keep a lot of tape residue off your guitar....just seal the edges..hard to explian, but easy to do.
-clean the fretboard (if rosewood or ebony) with steel wool, then wipe the wool residue off with a cotton rag (be carefull with steel wool dust, as it can be VERY painful and dangerous if you blow on it and it flies around in the air). i usually do the steel wooling out on the porch, and try to keep the shit off my skin and clothes, it's kinda nasty like fiberglass insulation.
-lem oil the fretboard then, while that's soaking in, clean the guitar body.
-re-lem oil the board. open the elctronics cavity, flush the volume, tone, switches, jack with de-oxit or even just regular lighter fluid
-if you let her sit for a day or two for the neck to settle, this is where i'd put her down, but not leaning the neck where undue pressure is on it....more, as straight up and down as you can get, or hang it on the guitar tree. some people might argue for or against this, i just always have done it to let the neck flex opposite the string pull. some might argue for, some against this, but, i have done it for almost 16 years with NO issues at all with my necks.
-when you go to get her back setup, you can pre setup your bridge and tailpiece to your measurements. keep in mind, if you change string gauges, things may be a bit off.
-also, a tip to remember when intonating is if the note at fretted 12th is sharp the the saddle needs to move away (sharp/away) from the headstock. then, if the note is flat move it at the headstock (flat/at). i fret my 12th fret notes just like i'm playing normal. intonation can be kind of tricky if you dont have a strobe tuner...i have an old ass accurate as shit needle tuner that gets me pretty spot on, as i've checked my results against a friends peterson tuner.
-if you have a stock nut, the best thing i've found to lube the string slots is a sharp #2 pencil before you string them. i haven't filed a nut slot in a while, but, sometimes when you get those pingers, a MINIMUM filing will do. too much, and you'll be renutting
good luck dude, glad to help. ask anytime, i own 7 gibsons with tune-o bridges...and have set them all up since the beginning. 3 ibanezes too. and im sure, as we've seen, there are a ton of ppl here with different ways and tricks to achieve a good setup.
also,all my LP's have the graph tech saddle string savers. i love them. the sustain increased, my tone got deeper, and string breakage went from about...once a week, to....once every 20 gigs.
sorry for the novel!