installing Center Brace in 2x12 Diagonal

[Junk Yard Dog]

Hey Guys,

I have a 2x12 diagonal (27"hx26"wx14"d) and I need to install the center brace/post. I'm not a cab maker, so just wanted to see what you guys know or tips. When I tried, here's what I did and noticed. Please let me know if any of this incorrect. I have not installed the brace yet, but am setting it up before drilling it in.

1) I laid the cab on its face, on the floor and removed the back baffle/panel
2) I installed the speakers
3) I placed the brace in the center of the cab, on the front panel. I did not install the brace, but merely placed it dead center, where I presume it will be drilled into the front baffle
4) The brace has a light mesh over it which will touch the back baffle
5) To see how the back baffle closes, I placed it back on the cabinet, where it slightly flexes/does not close completely. Hence, if I were to drill the screws in, the back baffle will have a slight bow to it. Is this normal??

Thanks, guys!

 

[Junk Yard Dog]

Bump

 

[Sierra Voodoo]

I apologize if I misunderstood your post but if the brace is too long and causing a bow in the back panel then why not cut a c-hair off the length? I would not want a bow that is creating unnecessary stress on my attachment (screw) points.

 

[_actual time_]

ahh, that classic traditional carpenter's unit of measurement.

i actually like the strategy of a center brace that is a hair too long. Bogner does that in their OS 2x12. that sight bit of bow in the back panel that the too-long brace causes keeps the back panel from flexing or woofing back and forth when the cab is in use. you could also stop the back panel from flexing if you put screws through the back panel into the brace, but that looks less slick from the outside.

one thing to remember is that old Newtonian idea that a force pushes in all directions, not just the direction you want/think/hope. the too-long brace will also push against the baffle. in the Bogner OS 2x12, the baffle is so thick and huge that it ain't moving. in your cab, that might not be the case.

OP, your plan in general sounds good to me. i don't know what the mesh is on the brace, that you mention. for attaching the brace to the baffle, you can either screw through the front of the baffle into the brace, or make a little flange piece of plywood that you screw into the brace, then screw through the plywood into the back of the baffle. i've done both; they both worked great.

 

[Junk Yard Dog]

Thanks, guys! _actual time_, that's helpful. This cab us sturdy, void free baltic birch, finger joints, etc. I recall my old 1936 had a bit of a bow before I screwed it in due to the brace, but cannot recall just how much. I'm not great with word work, so just double checking that some bow is expected on the back baffle due to the size of the brace.

I don't have the tools at home; the cab came in parts, so sawing it off shorter isn't possible at home, but I could probably take it to Home Depot and they could do it for a small charge. I'll see how I go. Thanks!

 

[_actual time_]

Thanks, guys! _actual time_, that's helpful. This cab us sturdy, void free baltic birch, finger joints, etc. I recall my old 1936 had a bit of a bow before I screwed it in due to the brace, but cannot recall just how much.

i don't think it needs much bow at all; just enough so that the back panel can't move. maybe as little as 1/4" extra length on the brace could do it.

bummer that you don't have tools handy to keep slicing off tiny amounts until it's perfect. but if you can run a long straight-edge or straight board across the back of the cab where the panel will go--or even hold the panel up on its edge like a huge, wide ruler--you should be able to mark a line on the brace where it would be flush with the panel if the panel had no bow. then cut the brace 1/4" or longer than that line.